Guerlain Flora Nymphea ~ brief perfume review

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Flora NympheaGuerlain Aqua Allegoria Flora Nymphea

Flora Nymphéa is the newest addition to the Aqua Allegoria range at Guerlain. The Aqua Allegoria fragrances are meant to showcase nature, and most years Guerlain adds one or two new scents to the series, and then they might axe a few of the older entries at the same time. At the moment, there appear to be five in production; in addition to the new Flora Nymphéa, there are four survivors from the past: Herba Fresca, Pamplelune (both 1999), Mandarine Basilic (2007) and Tiare Mimosa (2009). The packaging has been given an update this year, with new gold labels on the bottles and white outer boxes featuring a simple bee motif.

Flora Nymphéa, developed by Guerlain house perfumer Thierry Wasser, is said to have been inspired by a spring garden, and that’s a good fit — it’s a soft, dewy floral, even softer and dewier than the “floral mist” that was last year’s Idylle. It opens on sharp, slightly herbal-green citrus, but calms very quickly into a demure, spring-like blend of clean honeyed florals (orange blossom and seringa) over a pale woody musk.

Flora Nymphéa is pretty and wearable, if not terribly exciting. If you’re looking for a quiet, office-friendly floral, it is absolutely worth a shot. For my part, I rather like the idea but the execution could stand more oomph, and a little more staying power wouldn’t hurt either.

Guerlain Flora Nymphéa is available in 75 and 125 ml Eau de Toilette.

Note: image via forums.thefashionspot.com.

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61 Comments

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  1. Joe
    Posted on 23 March 2010

    Thanks for the timely review, R!

    I almost jumped at the offer of a “just in from Paris” split that was going on, but decided I could SO easily wait until this shows up at Sephora (I’m restraining myself… really I am!).

    I’m wondering if “needs more oomph” in March could end up being “just the perfect wisp of a thing” come the heat and humidity of July & August?

    • Robin
      Posted on 23 March 2010

      Oh, really think you can wait. I have a feeling this will sell (although I’m often wrong, LOL) because it’s so simple & wearable, but I’m going to be very surprised if any perfumistas find it worth getting excited about. And for myself, I don’t find that honey notes, however mild, always wear well in high heat — this isn’t a “summer tonic” kind of scent like Herba Fresca or Laurier Reglisse or Mandarine Basilic. Actually, I don’t think it’s a good fit with the AA range at all.

      • Joe
        Posted on 23 March 2010

        I heard that that Tiare Mimosa AA was a candysweet freakshow as well, and didn’t sound like that was a light summery thing either.

        When you said “honeyed floral” I guess you really meant it about the honey… though must say I don’t find it too cloying in the L’Occitane Honey & Lemon.

        • boojum
          Posted on 23 March 2010

          Pssst…. you should have a sample of the TM, sent along with the Amarige one. If not, tell me and I’ll toss one in your Ninfeo package. I don’t find it sweet…just very floral/girly.

          • Joe
            Posted on 23 March 2010

            Oops. You’re probably right, and that sounds familiar. I’ll dig through my mountain of vials and look for that. Sample collection has reached red alert level.

          • boojum
            Posted on 23 March 2010

            Likewise. Maybe you told *yourself* it was a freakshow. :D

  2. Zazie
    Posted on 23 March 2010

    It sounds very nice!
    I am not usually a fan of the AA, as I often find them lacking that “oomph!” you mention, but in this case the notes seem to be calling my name….

    As we speak of Guerlain…I don’t know if it is a polite thing to say, because it may sound as a request (but it isn’t!!! It is just…a wish?)…well, here it is: I would love to hear your impressions of some l’Art et la matière perfumes…
    …or maybe you could just lend me that BS detector of yours? ;)

    • Robin
      Posted on 23 March 2010
      • Zazie
        Posted on 23 March 2010

        !
        Maybe I should have just asked you what you think of BDA or CG…
        but I didn’t want to sound that specific!!!
        I was trying to fall in the “general prupose” cathegory…
        Anyway, it is just a stupid curiosity of mine, because I hate lemmings, especially when I have no way to test them in a near future!!!
        Don’t these animals ever get extinct? :)

        • Robin
          Posted on 23 March 2010

          I really like Bois d’Armenie. At some point I should review it. I never smelled Cruel Gardenia.

    • Absolute Scentualist
      Posted on 23 March 2010

      I hear you. I’m really excited about Tonka Impériale given the lusciousness that is SDV.

      Robin, thanks for the review and this does sound pretty, but I have so many dewy florals already that I can’t see myself picking it up. It would be worth a sniff were it local, but we aren’t blessed (or cursed, if you ask my credit card) with a Sephora anywhere close and the local Macy’s perfume counter is hilarious.

      • Robin
        Posted on 23 March 2010

        I find it an odd choice for the AA range given that they just did Idylle as a pillar last year. Oh well. I often don’t understand what direction Guerlain is trying to go in.

  3. raluca
    Posted on 23 March 2010

    It seems that not many people are impressed with AA Tiare-Mimosa, but for me is the fragrance with the most original personality launched in last years. It is so melancholic, I have butterflies in my stomach when I wear it. But… this is the most seasonal frag ever! It only works for those few weeks at the beginning of spring.

    • boojum
      Posted on 23 March 2010

      I don’t know that I’d use the word impressed, but I certainly like (and own, and wear!) the Tiare Mimosa.

      • Joe
        Posted on 23 March 2010

        Oops. See my freakshow comment above. I thought someone had told me TM was hideous, but if you like it, E, it is probably at least worth smelling (hint). :)

        • boojum
          Posted on 23 March 2010

          LOL well…our tastes overlap a lot, but are not identical. I responded above. :D

    • Robin
      Posted on 23 March 2010

      It was not a favorite of mine, but (of course) glad you love it — and glad for your sake they’re still making it.

  4. Bee
    Posted on 23 March 2010

    Lately I’ve been thinking of giving Pamplelune to my goddaughter for her 14th birthday (her first scent), could this one be better? Or maybe I’m better of with giving her a selection of samples first.. hmm

    • Robin
      Posted on 23 March 2010

      I think of Pamplelune as a great scent that not everybody can wear — I’d be tempted to give samples for that reason.

    • Lucy
      Posted on 23 March 2010

      Pamplelune is one of my absolute favorites, but I would never recommend buying it without having her trying it on first. It is such a polarizing fragrance. People on this site have described it as cat pee, sweaty, and dirty grapefruit. To me it’s icy grapefruit with a little dirt/earthiness, but I like the dirt.
      Besides, taking a 14 year old girl to Sephora to try it out or pick another scent can’t be the worst thing. :)

    • Posted on 23 March 2010

      I’ve not smelled Pamplelune myself, not being much of a citrus fan, but I vote for samples, with the promise of a bottle of whatever she picks out. I DO live with a 14-YO girl and I can say that the scent preferences of her friends vary widely.

  5. Bee
    Posted on 23 March 2010

    samples first then! I still have some time to think about an appropriate selection, I just want to start her on the right track, which could be difficult since her mother is an Angel-addict (but nevertheless a good friend of mine ;-) )

    • Julia
      Posted on 23 March 2010

      I would really try get with first. Pamplelune does not smell nice on me. I haven’t really liked it on other people either so maybe it is just me.

      • parfumliefhebber
        Posted on 23 March 2010

        No, you are not alone. Me too.

      • Posted on 23 March 2010

        Whereas on me, Pampelune is heaven. I don’t know if it’s my skin or my nose, but no cat pee or garlic or anything else, just brilliant fresh grapefruit, so gorgeous. It and Herba Fresca were a brilliant beginning for a line that, for me, didn’t produce much else of note–I like Winter Delice and Anisia Bella a lot, but the rest of them were pretty meh, or worse. Haven’t even bothered to try the last few.

  6. AnnS
    Posted on 23 March 2010

    Ylang & Vanille was my fav AA – it is very much like a de-indoled AG Songes….. It wears soft and simple and pretty. Nothing outstanding, but really pretty.

    • Robin
      Posted on 23 March 2010

      The earlier ones like YV, and even most of the later ones really, seemed to focus more on specific natural materials. This one doesn’t have that feel at all.

    • AnnieA
      Posted on 23 March 2010

      A friend gave me a mini bottle of Y&V and I sometimes wear a drop of it to bed. Pretty and evidently quite relaxing…

    • boojum
      Posted on 23 March 2010

      Ann, that’s how I feel about the Tiare Mimosa. Nothing outstanding, unusual or brilliant… it just smelled really, really good on me.

  7. Dzingnut
    Posted on 23 March 2010

    Julia – it’s not just you, trust. I spritzed it on, and within moments was wondering why I suddenly smelled like someone who hadn’t put on deoderant or showered for a month.

  8. parfumliefhebber
    Posted on 23 March 2010

    Finally I found some of the AA’s. I like the Herba Fresca the most, but I will give the new one definitely a try. The Pivoine Magnifica was also not bad.

    • Robin
      Posted on 23 March 2010

      I liked Anisia Bella too, although it was not popular!

      • Joe
        Posted on 23 March 2010

        Just got a decant of that one. It’s nice. I guess a lot of people do not like Anise. I do notice that the AAs have a bit of a similar-smelling base.

        Winter Delices is another one I thought was good … and not a summery thing, either.

        • AnnS
          Posted on 23 March 2010

          I am lukewarm about AB – I like my anise in liquor form! Yum!

      • parfumliefhebber
        Posted on 24 March 2010

        That one is on my must try list.

  9. raluca
    Posted on 23 March 2010

    It seems that nymphs are big this year. Profumum launched Ninfea (roses, violet, honeysuckle, cut grass), Guerlain Flora Nymphea and Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio.
    Anyone else?

  10. Posted on 23 March 2010

    I’m still terribly distracted by the model’s cottony hair. I’m sure it’s deliberate for the ad, but I just keep staaaaaring at it.

    • Robin
      Posted on 23 March 2010

      LOL!

    • Joe
      Posted on 23 March 2010

      I’m distracted by that look too, Mals. That and the fact that I keep wondering if the model is all of about 13 years old. It’s creepy somehow: a made-up child in a platinum bouffant wig.

      • AnnS
        Posted on 23 March 2010

        Yes, super creepy looking ad – I suppose they wanted her to be an extension of the flower. Eek.

        • Posted on 23 March 2010

          Both of you are right, it’s creepy. I think it’s that it strikes me as sexualizing a child. Probably the model’s 18 but looks young.

          I mean, I do get the concept: she’s a fairy/nymph/thing, of course she’d be pretty and young… and naked and pouting… and then there are those, um, ladypart-looking flowers behind her…

          • boojum
            Posted on 23 March 2010

            But actually, she ISN’T naked…look closer. She’s wearing some gold-sequined thing, at least on her lower parts, and you can’t see her top well enough to be sure. And there, even if she isn’t wearing anything, she’s “covered” nonetheless. And, while I’m being all naive, I’ll say that the flowers didn’t strike me as “girl parts” so much as wings.

          • AlbertCAN
            Posted on 23 March 2010

            You are referring to Anna Selezneva: she will turn 20 this summer. She is also the face of Vera Wang Look if I’m not mistaken.

            As for the fragrance…what can I say? Guerlain could have taken the high road with the concept and Wasser could transform the idea into something poetic. But if the team can’t see the angle then I really don’t need to waste my time. Really too bad.

          • Posted on 24 March 2010

            I’m probably not seeing it as it was meant to be seen, true.

            But I still find it really creepy.

    • zeezee
      Posted on 24 March 2010

      It reminds me very much of Goldfrapp’s newest cd cover: the same corny faded face over a background in early 70′s pastel tints.

    • OperaFan
      Posted on 24 March 2010

      There is a link to a video advertisement on PerfumeShrine. I haven’t seen it, but the semi-cartoon effect of the photograph there makes me think of Japanese animation. It bears the style that can easily be transformed into a comic drawing and if intended specifically for the Asian market, would explain a lot.

  11. RusticDove
    Posted on 23 March 2010

    I’vs only tried a few of the AA line, but haven’t found one to love yet. But I want to love one. I have to have one of those pretty bottles. Next time I go to Sephora, Imust force myself to leave the house without fragrance so I can sample several more. ;-)

    • Robin
      Posted on 23 March 2010

      Try TJ Maxx too…they sometimes have older ones. I’ve liked quite a few of them but have yet to meet one I’d pay full price for.

  12. Posted on 24 March 2010

    What an apt, ethereal ad visual.

    • Robin
      Posted on 24 March 2010

      I like the ad, but not for the AA range — it was supposed to be about materials found in nature, and all the old ads emphasized those materials. This ad says nothing about the materials, which I guess you could say fits since the scent doesn’t either — but I think it’s too bad. Guerlain’s line has lost all sense of coherence already, this just makes it worse.

      • Posted on 26 March 2010

        Oh yes I see what you mean! The flowers in the ad are orchids, right? They could’ve at least used the matching flowers from the fragrance notes…

        • Robin
          Posted on 26 March 2010

          Exactly…why not orange blossoms or mock orange? But perhaps they are going to revamp the AA line, give it a new direction.

  13. Isa
    Posted on 24 March 2010

    I love -and own- Mandarine Basilic. It’s absolutely energizing, fresh and clean. I usually wear it after a shower, in summer.
    Here in Spain some shopping assistants are starting to say it’s going to be discontinued. I hope they’re mistaken.

    I’m llooking forward to trying this Flora Nymphea, because I’m in the mood for a spring-like perfume.

    • Robin
      Posted on 24 March 2010

      I hope they don’t get rid of it before I buy some! Still waiting for a very cheap bottle to turn up somewhere.

  14. Posted on 12 April 2010

    In my opinion, I think Flora Nymphéa goes way more impressive than the last year’s (meh) Idylle. Totally get the honey tone, wrapping up with the expressive orange blossom. Simple as it should be, I think Flora Nymphéa creates enough volume for the wearer.

    Well I think Flora Nymphéa shouldn’t be sitting on Aqua Allegoria’s bench.

    • Robin
      Posted on 12 April 2010

      I like Idylle better, but totally agree this doesn’t fit with the Aqua Allegorias.

  15. alligins
    Posted on 31 August 2010

    I think i’ll get this one come next spring/early summer. It’s time now to think about the fall. It took me forever to make up my mind about this one, only because it’s very sweet, not my usual…but I decided it’s a good sweet, so I figured something out for next spring. One other sweetie fragrance I like, and most of you ladies hate is the Insolence. It just works with my skin, though I have to be in the right frame of mind for it.

    when I sprayed my sample of this nymphea, I have to say that it was more men who took notice.

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