What Diana the Huntress might wear on a big night

Tiaré goes one further and takes on the most impregnably classical thing of all: the feminine citrus floral.

For reference, this category includes such marvels as Caron’s Alpona, Diorella and Chanel’s Cristalle, i.e. what Diana the Huntress might wear on a big night. Tiaré is clearly modeled on Cristalle, with a haughty, silken freshness up top and a green, acidic, olive-oil fruitiness below. But Linda Pilkington does not know her place: Tiaré is better than its model, richer, more complicated, more interesting.

— Luca Turin, in Notes from the nose — Tiare at NZZ Folio, with many thanks to Abyss for the link!

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71 Comments

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  1. Daisy
    Posted on 8 January 2010

    ONLY ENOUGH TO MAKE 160 BOTTLES??? I think I hear a perfumista stampede…..take cover!

    • Robin
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      LOL!

      • CynthiaW
        Posted on 8 January 2010

        OMG- I thought the same thing. Quick, Daisy – are we splitting a bottle?

        • datura5750
          Posted on 8 January 2010

          I’m in!

        • Daisy
          Posted on 8 January 2010

          yup, I’ll go order right now!

          • Daisy
            Posted on 8 January 2010

            Ok—y’all are BAD! I’m not supposed to be buying more stuff…sheesh…..email me!

          • bergere
            Posted on 8 January 2010

            Hi, Daisy–Can you order a BIG bottle? I’d like in!

          • Daisy
            Posted on 8 January 2010

            sorry y’all….before I got to the OJ site I remembered how Cristalle burned my nose! I’m sure if you 3 ran a split a fourth person would show up very quickly! Oh, and just as an aside—the per ml cost of the purse sprays is virtually the same as the 50ml bottle per ml cost.
            What I need OJ to do is start making 100ml bottles at an economically attractive price!

        • Tama
          Posted on 8 January 2010

          I’m in, too! lol

          • Absolute Scentualist
            Posted on 8 January 2010

            Me too. I adore tiare and this sounds like a great OJ gateway perfume. Please count me im. :)

        • daseined
          Posted on 8 January 2010

          Hey all,

          Just posted for a split on the Google group…get in now!

          • Absolute Scentualist
            Posted on 8 January 2010

            How can I find the Google group? All I’m aware of is the ScentSplits wiki… I know. Bad perfumista.

  2. perfumegeek
    Posted on 8 January 2010

    Oh no, only 160??? I just ordered my sample of Tiare, I hope it gets here before the supply runs out. I don’t want to order it unsniffed…although now I’m tempted. Gah!

    • Robin
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      It’s a very pretty fragrance, but I did not love it despite the fact that I adore the others he names (Cristalle, Alpona — the old formulation, Diorella).

      • perfumegeek
        Posted on 8 January 2010

        How similar is it to OJ Frangipani? I remember the smell of frangipani growing up and loved the creamy sweet, slightly fruity ripe scent of it. But I don’t like OJ’s interpretation of it :( It’s too acidic for my taste.

        • Robin
          Posted on 8 January 2010

          To my nose, it’s daintier than Frangipani…but it is citrusy.

          • perfumegeek
            Posted on 8 January 2010

            I have such a love/hate relationship with citrus. I have a photo of myself as a little girl, getting ready for a dance recital, wearing a luscious crown of frangipani, feeling absolutely gorgeous. I just could not get over how much the citrus notes overwhelm the frangipani scent in the OJ.

        • parfumliefhebber
          Posted on 8 January 2010

          I had the same experience with Frangipani from I think it was Guerlain last sommer. It smelt very like acid on my skin.

  3. Abyss
    Posted on 8 January 2010

    Lol @ Daisy :D

    I think LT said it was the case in Nov. I remember that Tiare was sold out at one point but they got more stock before Christmas so perhaps that means that they managed to sort the supply problem.

    • Robin
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      That’s probably right.

      • boojum
        Posted on 8 January 2010

        I hope so, because I’m operating under that assumption rather than ordering unsniffed. :D I can already see that my new year’s resolution is going to have to be something along the lines of “not allowing the availability of a split to make me purchase something unsniffed or far down my to-buy list”. Starting now, since I jumped on 2 in as many days.

        • Robin
          Posted on 8 January 2010

          I wouldn’t worry…even if they run out, they’ll make more.

  4. CynthiaW
    Posted on 8 January 2010

    Robin, the review over at the Posse compared Tiare to A Scent, Cristalle Eau Verte and Jasmine White Moss – did you find that to be an apt comparison? Because, if it is, I might have just averted that lemming since I already own two of the three scents mentioned.

    • Robin
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      Yeah, in that same family. But I’ll use the same word I used above: dainty. It’s daintier than any of those. The moss has no bite, as it does in the original Cristalle or Alpona or Diorella, but it doesn’t smell as synthetic as A Scent, CEV or JWM. And it’s a very airy scent — more so than OJ Frangipani or Osmanthus.

      • CynthiaW
        Posted on 8 January 2010

        Whew – lemming averted here, too.

      • Posted on 8 January 2010

        And lemming increased here. :-)
        Airy is me.

        • Daisy
          Posted on 8 January 2010

          Haunani—you need to go talk to Tama, Bergere and Datura…let Ormonde Jayne bring people together!

      • AnnS
        Posted on 8 January 2010

        I’ve not yet smelled Tiare, that being said…. Yeesh! To compare a fragrance to Cristalle or Diorella is no insignificant thing. I am thinking where are the sholder pads/spike heels/axe/whip/?bow and arrow? hidden in this “dainty” thing? To read LT’s comments and then also read comparisons to other rather clean white florals is a big jump between all these reviews. In my mind now, I imagine Cristalle and Diorella eating Tiare for a snack – I get the head, you get the tail, lol. Cristalle and Diorella are two huge, respect worthy fragrances that are very hard to wear for most – to compare to A Scent, C eau Verte and JWM… well those are so relatively simple, mass market soapy greens… It is a confusing comparison for sure.

        • Robin
          Posted on 8 January 2010

          What can I say … LT sees something very different in Tiare than I do. I do think it’s lovely, but to me it lacks the edge that the 3 classics have, although Alpona was first de-edged and then discontinued altogether, and I cannot see how either Cristalle or Diorella can’t have been reformulated also (I still assume that’s the point of Cristalle Eau Verte).

          • AnnS
            Posted on 8 January 2010

            Absolutely – one way or the other Cristalle would have to be reformulated – both the cirtrus and oakmoss would do it. I totally applaud people who can wear Cristalle with ease. All I know is you can sharpen knives on it! And here is me thinking No 19 is edgy! I always think: maybe someday I’ll get it. Diorella on the other hand is just major league – I respect it completely, but I can’t wear it. I suppose I will smell Tiare for reference, etc. just to try and understand it for what it is.

          • Jillie
            Posted on 9 January 2010

            Sharp-eyed perfumistas may have noticed that I have previously ranted about the reformuation of Cristalle! It really isn’t what it used to be. I can see/smell where the comparisons to Cristalle and Diorella are coming from in describing Tiare, but I would almost swear it smells like vetiver (most of all like Jo Malone’s version). Tiare IS light, almost too light for a show-off like me, but I am becoming increasingly addicted to it! And I guess it just goes to show that there’s nothing like sniffing the real thing to know whether you are going to like a fragrance or not, and to wear it more than once.

    • SmokeyToes
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      I’m so glad I read your post Cynthiaw, Cristalle the original would have had me interested right away. Eau Verte–not so much. But good to know.

  5. Posted on 8 January 2010

    Lemming averted here: the Citrus Floral I find perfectly nice but not really Me. More for the rest of you!

  6. boojum
    Posted on 8 January 2010

    I guess LT and I have very different ideas of Diana the Huntress… and probably “a big night” as well. :D A dainty citrus floral? I’d expect something more along the lines of OJ Woman or Boudicca Wode… something with a green, bitter bite… or, given her connection with the moon, a big, blooming white floral.

    • Robin
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      Well, I don’t think he found it dainty.

    • RusticDove
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      My thoughts exactly Boo! Even if we put ‘dainty’ aside, I wouldn’t imagine a citrus floral as Diana’s scent.

  7. dissed
    Posted on 8 January 2010

    It is necessary that try ANY new OJ scent, ASAP. All are beautiful, but few are purchased. Those few, though, are necessary. If my sample doesn’t arrive today, I will sit down beside the mailbox, in the ice, and scream.

    • Robin
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      I would wholeheartedly agree. Everyone should try it.

  8. Robin R.
    Posted on 8 January 2010

    Three things. First, this article of Turin’s should be required reading for any budding perfumista. It says so much about the current state of fragrance, clearly, astutely and economically. He knows his stuff.

    Second, Enlevement au Serail IS genius.

    Third, I share the relief that others have expressed, knowing that Robin wasn’t as impressed by Tiare as Turin was. Yes indeed, one big fat lemming off the cliff without me. And the really interesting thing: for all the respect I have for Luca Turin, it seems that I might even trust Robin’s nose more. Wow. ;-)

    • CynthiaW
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      Well, I respect Turin and Sanchez and try things based on their recommendations, but I *agree* with Robin more often. So, when it comes to personal consumption and purchasing, rather than just sniffing, I trust Robin more.

    • Robin
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      Gosh. I certainly would not trust my nose more. Luca Turin knows way more about perfume than I ever even want to know. If your taste is closer to mine, fine — his taste is quite different than mine.

      • Robin R.
        Posted on 8 January 2010

        Operative phrase: “might trust.”

        Could be I was looking for any excuse to get this small furry rodent off my lemming list. ;-)

        Love,
        Just Teasing

      • CynthiaW
        Posted on 8 January 2010

        Oh, I’ll read anything that he writes about perfume and sniff things that I never would have otherwise – several times sometimes just to try and “get” what he does from it. I also find his reviews hilarious – even when he’s trashing something that I love. That being said, my tastes often hew closer to yours than his – except for vetiver. I think that you both love that and I don’t really get it yet.

        • Robin
          Posted on 8 January 2010

          Oh well, there are notes I’ll never really “get” either!

  9. Kseni
    Posted on 8 January 2010

    Same here, I tried too hard to love it, but while I love cristalle and all the rest mentioned in comparison, this new one just did not impress as if too polished and not edged enough too pleasing and therefore i could not get what is it to achieve

    • Robin
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      “Too polished” is a good way to put it.

  10. aimiliona
    Posted on 8 January 2010

    Lemming averted here too. Better than Cristalle? I didn’t believe it and I wanted to test the claim at the same time.

    Peter Jackson’s Arwen Evenstar probably wears Cristalle, though I think Tolkien’s doesn’t.

    • Robin
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      I never read the Tolkien, so no idea! Based on the movie, I would have put her in something fiercer than Cristalle though. Can’t think of what.

  11. Nina
    Posted on 8 January 2010

    Oh, Arwen was almost certainly an Ormonde Woman woman!

    • Nina
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      Elf-woman, that is.

      • perfumegeek
        Posted on 8 January 2010

        OMG, I was thinking exactly the same thing LOL. I was feeling fierce last night, watching the BCS National Championship, sprayed myself senseless with OJ Woman, and nearly lost my voice screaming and cheering for my team. Roll Tide!

    • Robin
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      Yes, that would fit how I think of her (and watching the trilogy this week with my son, who has never seen it before)

  12. sunsetsong
    Posted on 8 January 2010

    I have loved and worne Cristalle for many years and am a recent purchaser of Tiare. Don’t agree with LT – Cristalle is still the big sister as far as I am concerned and while there is lots to love about Tiare it doesn’t have the same edge and lasting power. I look forward to wearing Tiare during the warmer months when I feel that it will come into its own. Both are beautiful fragrances.
    The whole reformulation thing drives me mad! How do we know we are wearing the same fragrance when we look at a review? Obviously this doesn’t apply to Tiare but is my Cristalle the same as yours ??

    • Robin
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      It’s a real problem — we’ve put a disclaimer about reformulations on the top of the perfume review page, but I don’t have time to add a disclaimer to every single review.

  13. Absolute Scentualist
    Posted on 8 January 2010

    Does the newest Christalle formulation bear any resemblence to the intriguing character it seems to possess? I love intense florals and Chanel, and I’d like to give this a try but don’t know how well it’s survived all the reformulation that’s going on.

    • Robin
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      I have not smelled the EdT lately. I assume the EdP would need less work to survive the new regulations.

  14. sunsetsong
    Posted on 8 January 2010

    A further thought – LT was perhaps reviewing the Tiare parfum ? Which is much spendier than my humble ( but lovely) EDP…..
    Can someone in London go test the parfum ? Please ?

    • Robin
      Posted on 8 January 2010

      Could be.

      • Posted on 9 January 2010

        Afraid ’tis! We have the parfum. The eau was certainly fresher and more transparent, the parfum more dramatic.

        • Robin
          Posted on 9 January 2010

          Ah. That might be why I’m missing the drama, then.

    • Jillie
      Posted on 9 January 2010

      I was thinking the very same thing as I scrolled down the comments! Because the perfume is way beyond my pocket, I am wearing the edp, which certainly isn’t strong, and it suddenly occurred to me that LT might well have been sniffing the perfume. I would love to smell that!

  15. ami
    Posted on 9 January 2010

    I truly love OJ Woman and Frangipani,might buy them once, but Tiare is somewhat boring… sort of a grandmo scent, but not in a comforting way

    really should not buy this one unsniffed

    • Robin
      Posted on 9 January 2010

      I don’t know that I found it dull, really, but certainly less exciting than others in the line. But looks like many others disagree!

  16. TallulahRose
    Posted on 9 January 2010

    When I think “tiare”, I immediately go to Manoumalia. A richly complex and enchanting version — definitely not boring — and yet, not overwhelming and cloying. Lovely.

    • Robin
      Posted on 9 January 2010

      That is a gorgeous scent, although too sweet for me personally. This one is far airier…

  17. hongkongmom
    Posted on 10 January 2010

    I am hooked on my tiare mimose aa guerlain, i have OJ frangipani, and i am so keen to try ormande women, so the oj tiare is a NON lemming for me…phew

    • Robin
      Posted on 11 January 2010

      Do try Ormonde Woman, it’s a great scent. But while you’re at it you really might as well try this too, LOL…

  18. Posted on 11 April 2010

    I got a sample yesterday and adore it – it really is a smooth, polished citrus, which is exactly what I’d been looking for – and it lacks Diorella’s bitchiness, somehow, which is no bad thing. I’d love to smell the parfum.

    • Robin
      Posted on 11 April 2010

      It’s really pretty, but I did not love it.

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