The Monday Mail ~ help Susan find a new perfume

645pm

Today we’re helping Susan, who has been wearing the same two fragrances, Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs and Dolce & Gabbana The One, for some time and needs a change. Anaïs Anaïs was a favorite of a friend of hers who died young, and Susan been wearing it for years. Lately she has been finding The One too cloying, and sometimes she washes it off after a few hours.

Susan wants a daytime fragrance, something distinctive but not overpowering, that would be suitable for work, lunch with friends, shopping, etc etc. She has good access to department stores, and she’s willing to shop online, but she’d like to keep the cost below $100. Here is what we know about Susan:

She works in a creative field, and says her lifestyle is “very simple and casual”.

She’s in her mid-50s, but says she’s usually mistaken for someone in her mid-40s, and she still feels like she’s in her mid-30s.

Susan has been applying for jobs lately and has taken several personality tests, and has decided she is 50% artistic/romantic and 50% engineer.

Susan likes soft floral and spice notes, and citrus that’s not too tart. She likes orange blossom, and “the ultra-spicy fragrance of the tiny, old-fashioned carnations I planted some years ago”. Susan does not like lavender, paperwhites, gardenia or rose (unless it’s a minor player in a scent). She has never liked anything by Estee Lauder except Spellbound.

Some of the perfumes that Susan almost likes include Hanae Mori (a bit too cloying), Elizabeth Arden Red Door and Vera Wang (she likes both of them on friends, on her they smell “off”), Vera Wang Princess (she likes it but it seems very young), Robert Piguet Fracas (too much), Lolita Lempicka Coral Flower (nice but too heavy), Alfred Sung (nice but faded quickly; she’d like to try it again).

What say you?

Note: image is 6:45 pm by Jam Adams on flickr; some rights reserved.

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60 Comments

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  1. Katich
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    Hmm, I would suggest the original Lolita Lempicka (anise, ivy leaf, fun, spicy, and memorable and not overpowering) or maybe the men’s version of the Hanae Mori. I like it much better than the women’s version, and I definitely get some carnation from it. Give it a try!

  2. boojum
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    I think Susan should look at the Jo Malone and Annick Goutal lines, since it seems she likes fairly simple yet well-done fragrances. To start, maybe JM’s Dark Amber & Ginger Lily or the Orange or Lime Blossom; from AG, try Le Chevrefeuille or Heure Exquise.

    • Karin
      Posted on 26 October 2009

      Agreed!

    • bergere
      Posted on 26 October 2009

      Third the Dark Amber and Ginger Lily; her Lotus Blossom and Water Lily is also nice.

  3. ScentRed
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    I suggest Fendi Theorema. Happy hunting!

    “Top notes are nutmeg, orange blossom, pepper, jasmine, citruses, brazilian rosewood, cardamom and rose hip; middle notes are carnation, cinnamon, osmanthus, ylang-ylang, rose and spices; base notes are , siam benzoin, guaiac wood, sandalwood, amber and patchouli.”
    (from Fragrantica)

    • Daisy
      Posted on 26 October 2009

      SPEAKING OF THEOREMA —a while back wasn’t someone here saying they wanted a bottle and couldn’t find any? well, I was engaged in a rather “feverish” perfume hunt yesterday and I found some 100ml bottles of Theorema for $55 ( I already have a substantial stash of Theorema )

      • ScentRed
        Posted on 26 October 2009

        I’m officialy excited. Where pray tell?

        • Daisy
          Posted on 26 October 2009

          Hi scent….guess it must have been you! try :

          perfumeshop.com

          100ml/ $55
          50ml/ $45
          and when I put one in the cart (this is usually the moment of truth where they suddenly decide something is out of stock) and it still said ‘in stock’ If I didn’t already have 3 bottles stashed, I’d buy more!

          • ScentRed
            Posted on 26 October 2009

            Daisy , you are my hero ;-) Thank you.

          • Daisy
            Posted on 26 October 2009

            Daisy the Super Enabler strikes again!! :-D

          • miss kitty v.
            Posted on 26 October 2009

            We need to get you a shirt with that printed on it. Or maybe just a cape. :)

          • Rappleyea
            Posted on 26 October 2009

            Miss Kitty – she hasn’t shown you her 14K diamond encrusted enablers pin yet? She just keeps adding stones to it!

          • miss kitty v.
            Posted on 26 October 2009

            …which would go great with a cape!

          • Daisy
            Posted on 26 October 2009

            So then I rechecked at Beautyencounter.com who I could have sworn only recently said out of stock…..and they now have it listed as in stock again….I dunno, maybe I’m crazy. But my first choice of discounters would be Beautyencounter.

  4. Daisy
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    hmmmmm, well, for your carnation fix I’d certainly recommend a decant of CdG Red Series: Carnation….it is hands down the best spiciest carnation like gramma had and before they greenhoused, and hybridized the beautiful scent away. But it’s a kick-your-butt carnation and 10 or 15ml would probably be plenty.

    For a nice, pretty but interesting day fragrance two things popped into my head—Hilde Soliani Il Tuo Tulipano, a soft, lovely, creamy floral with a slight spiciness and not too sweet , very yummy. Runs about $75/ 50ml
    The second thing that I thought of is Natori EdP…it is just a really really pretty scent, not too heavy but still lingers for hours. Floral but not “too much” a bit of aldehydes for sparkle…everyone seems to like this and it’ll get you compliments like mad. It runs $110/100ml at Saks but I think there’s a first order 10% coupon code….Kitty knows it, but I always forget.
    Oh, another thing to try on the Cheap Thrill end might be Barbara Bui which is a light oriental slightly tangy spice and I think maybe some tangerine? anyhow, that’s available at Reirien dot com for about $20/50ml
    Good luck ! :-)

    • CynthiaW
      Posted on 26 October 2009

      Yes! I love CdG Carnation – it’s awesome. Probably too spendy, but I also love Le Labo Fleur d’Oranger 27 and will probably spring for an FB when my decant runs out. Parfum DelRae’s Debut is also a stunning floral and is only a little over your budget at $135.

    • miss kitty v.
      Posted on 26 October 2009

      The Saks discount might have ended, but I’ll look and see…

    • Posted on 26 October 2009

      Seconding the Hilde Soliani for “soft floral” – it struck me as being a very cheerful, yet soft, scent, and distinctive. You wouldn’t smell like a hundred other women, wearing it.

  5. marko
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    Susan –

    Three things came to mind: Bulgari Black, Lorenzo Villoresi Garofano, and, believe it or not, Old Spice – I’ve known women who wear Old Spice and it smells wonderful on them….lots of spicey carnation.

    Good Luck

    • Heiress
      Posted on 26 October 2009

      I absolutely second the Bvlgari Black – the “50% artistic/romantic and 50% engineer” sent my mind straight to that one. It’s wonderful!

      http://www.nstperfume.com/2006/02/22/bvlgari-black-perfume-review/

      • Posted on 26 October 2009

        I adore carnation too – and Black is terrific. I work as a bookkeeper in an auto parts store, and I love to walk around sniffing when the guys have just cut a piece of rubber hose… Mmm, new bicycle tire.

        Did not like Garofano, but CdG Carnation was nice; I also recommend DSHPerfumes’ carnation scents. My favorite of hers is Oeillets Rouges, in the Parfum des Beaux Arts section, although it’s a little spendy – I also liked La Fleuriste, in the Essense Oils section (you can get it in edp rather than oil). Link here – https://www.dshperfumes.com/

        And I think Old Spice smells great (but also like my father, so that takes it off my personal list).

    • Susan
      Posted on 27 October 2009

      Ah, Marko, I adore Old Spice…how’d you know?? When my husband wore after shave, I always had it for him…plus Obsession. Never liked hers, adored his version.

      Thanks so much to ALL for your thoughtful replies. I’m so pleased to have been included in the Mail, and I can’t wait to start hunting down all your great suggestions!

      I’ll keep you posted as I discover new things!

  6. Dawnkana
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    I am also a fan of Spellbound. :) So, in keeping with that kind of spiciness, I would like to suggest LOVE COMES FROM WITHIN by Sarah Horowitz-Tran. It’s a modern kind of Spellbound. Here’s the info on it from BeautyCafe’s website: (((susan – there is a rose note listed, but it is definitely NOT noticeable))))

    ~~~Love Comes From Within™ is an alluring tribute to both the passions that exist within all of us and the treasure that is the human heart. Its seductive clove top note introduces a sensuously sexy middle note of spicy carnation and rose, a flower long renowned for its aphrodisiac properties. The fragrance’s textured, warm base note accord of Tunisian Amber, French Vanilla, Clean Musk and Indian Sandalwood beckons others to draw near as it evolves on the skin. Love Comes From Within™ is a fragrance designed to inspire that priceless love of self that makes one irresistible.~~~~

    Natori has been suggested and I second that suggestion.

    Have fun sniffing and sampling. :)

    ~Dawn

  7. Posted on 26 October 2009

    Oh! Susan, you and I are about the same age and perhaps a similar personality profile. I love the little spicy carnations, too, scientific name Dianthus. I recommend that you try Etro Dianthus, which can be found several places online for under $100. It’s a lovely floral blend. Listed notes include Orange, Musk, Vanilla, Centifolia Rose, Bourbon Geranium, Ginger, Carnation, Cedar, Woods, Pink Pepper. If you can’t find it anywhere to test, let me know and I will send you a sample.

    • Susan
      Posted on 27 October 2009

      I’d forgotten that carnation is dianthus. Thanks for the offer of a sample; I’ll let you know if I get stuck.

      There are so many suggestions I don’t know where to begin!!! It seems I have a quest, which I dearly needed.

      Thanks again!
      Susan

  8. dewey eyed
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    How about Kenzo Flower? Or perhaps the Oriental flanker.

  9. Abyss
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    I would recommend Odalisque by Parfums de Nicolaï. It’s a beautiful green floral, not cloying, grown up without being old. I’d say it’s suitable for most occasions and works at any time of the year.

    • boojum
      Posted on 26 October 2009

      I like this one too…it’s on the FB list once spring rolls around (I prefer much heavier/warmer frags for our long winters).

  10. Suzanne941
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    Some great ideas here (and a lot I have to try!).
    I’d suggest Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu or Different Company Sublime Balkiss (sample that first, it’s pricey) — if the citrus isn’t too bright.
    happy sniffing!

  11. Delfina
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    Hi Susan,
    While I was reading the first fragrance that immediately came to my mind was Donna Karan Gold, which is a soft lily scent. I have it in edp and find it perfectly work-appropriate, with lots of character.

    • Posted on 26 October 2009

      That was my first thought as well. There is a spiciness to the lily scent that might appeal to a carnation-lover (like me!), as well as a creamy floral quality.

    • Dixie
      Posted on 26 October 2009

      I agree with Gold. Gold Sparkling is great too!

  12. Robin R.
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    Hello Susan ~

    You are in very good hands here. Some excellent suggestions. The Jo Malones, as mentioned, are very much worth looking at. They layer beautifully, too, so if and when you buy a second bottle, hop on their website and they give you great ideas for which pairings are especially successful. You can buy ounce bottles for well under $100. They have a pretty Orange Blossom, and there’s White Jasmine and Mint, which has a little spice to it and is really fresh and interesting.

    Ormonde Jayne has a couple of delicious florals, Champaca and Frangipani, I think you might fall in love with. They have a good website and you can order easily from them.

    Please do try Bellodgia by Caron. I think this might be the winner, especially because you (and I) love spicy carnation. It is classically French but still feels very modern. Extraordinary quality for a not-extraordinary price. Very easy to find.

    I’m sure you’ll have lots of ideas by the time this Monday is done. Good luck!

    • Posted on 26 October 2009

      Hi, Robin…
      Read the post, and was enjoying going through the replies, but also looking to see if someone would mention Bellodgia. Not just because of the carnation, but because (to me) it is smooth without being cloying. Have seen both edp and parfum available online.

      Am currently sampling Juliet for the first time, but it strikes me as something that has potential for Susan. Hints of citrus at opening, but essentially a creamy floral.

      • Jemimagold
        Posted on 26 October 2009

        Bellodgia is an excellent rec for a carnation-centric perfume.

    • lilydale aka Natalie
      Posted on 26 October 2009

      I was just going to mention Bellodgia, but you beat me to it! Consider the suggestion thirded…

      My go-to office-appropriate-but-still-offbeat scent is CdG2 Woman, which is inky and different and wonderful. It doesn’t really match your preferred notes, but then, whose preferred note is “ink” anyway?!

  13. PetronellaCJ
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    I highly recommend my latest discounter love Rochas Absolu! It is a golden scent with orange blossom, labdanum, tolu balm and benzoin. Very wearable without being boring. I find it a bit related to Hermès Calèche, which is far more “respectable” but yet goes amazingly well with a “casual lifestyle” (aldehydes, a lovely mixed flower chord, oakmoss, vetiver, sandal and cedar wood).

    On a brighter side I recommend Thierry Mugler Cologne with lots of green and spicy citrus, not at all tart. Best of luck and happy sniffing!

  14. klarca123
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    Hi, Susan! Please try Carnal Flower by Frederic Malle. It’s not as heavy as Fracas (at least not on me) so you might like it. Also, you might to check the Floris line – they do some very beautiful florals.
    Good luck in your search for the One (heehee). Klara

  15. Racine
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    I remember Dolce & Gabbana pour femme( red box) smelling to orange blossom & carnation. Easy to find and nice price! My advice would be to apply with measure, lasting power is superb!

  16. Posted on 26 October 2009

    What about Allure sensuelle? A classic floriental. Karl Lagerfeld Kapsule Floriental is also a very exciting scent on women. And the new Kenzo, Essentielle, is that the name? It’s slightly more spicy and varm than the original, but not over the top. Still an elegant floral.

  17. Fuddy Duddy 101
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    Hi Susan,

    You may want to try Eau de Givenchy for Women. It is a very soft, pleasing floral scent. It doesn’t over power you but you can still notice it. The dry down is well blended, but on me I get a lot of lily and jasmine and very little rose. The woody, musky base notes are light and soft. It does not have the best lasting power because of it’s light and airy feeling but I just love it and hope you will too. It’s in your price range too and very readily available on line and in department stores.
    TOP NOTES: Bergamot, Spearmint, Fruity Notes
    MIDDLE NOTES: Muguet, Jasmine, Rose, Cyclamen
    BASE NOTES: Moss, Sandalwood, Cedar wood, Musk.
    Best of Luck!

  18. miss kitty v.
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    Agree with Sacrebleue and Natori, and adding Chanel No. 22.

    • miss kitty v.
      Posted on 26 October 2009

      Whoops, added an extra “E” on Sacrebleu. :(

  19. bergere
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    Hi, Susan! I wonder if you’d like Genie du Bois (Keiko Mecheri), which, although a violet scent, has some spicy, carnation-y notes. Terracotta by Guerlain is a sweeter, rosier spicy carnation scent, and it is quite inexpensive; it is in some ways similar to Safran troublant by L’Artisan, only not quite as sweet. Any of the Ormond Jayne line might be up your alley; well-composed florals that are never over-the-top big florals. I also liked Element of Surprise (Creative Universe) because it has a very mellow lemon. Have fun!

    • Posted on 26 October 2009

      I second the idea of trying Genie des Bois and Terracotta Voile d’Ete. Also, I personally prefer both Etro Dianthus and Caron Poivre (a peppery carnation) to Bellodgia. I would try them all, but Bellodgia is a heavy hitter — too heavy for my nose.

    • Susan
      Posted on 27 October 2009

      Ah, so it was Terracotta that I was so intrigued with at Sephora! I was in a real rush that last time I was at the store (which is about 2 hours from me), and I completely forgot the name by the time I had 2 meetings and drove home. I was browsing online about a week later, and I wondered from the description if it was Terracotta.

      Thanks for the reminder and other suggestions, and I will definitely go sniffing again soon!

      Susan

  20. Dolly
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    Belladogia, Eau de Givenchy are my suggestions. Love that carnation since I was old enough to know what perfume notes were.

  21. Dolly
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    Too bad I’ve been unsuccessful in growing them.

  22. Jemimagold
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    I think she would love Prada Infusion d’Iris!

    • Tamarind
      Posted on 26 October 2009

      Everyone loves Prada Infusion d’Iris or they should :)

      Also the Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger? For some orange blossom goodness…I only tried it once in a storm of smelling and selecting something appropriately powerful for my brother so I don’t remember it much but it was nice enough.

  23. Tamarind
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    Hello,
    If you are referencing Sung by Alfred Sung I am wearing it now! (super cheap 80′s goodness).
    For more quality with the same vibe, try Chanel Cristalle and No. 19 they share a few notes (unfortunately not the carnation).

    And check out Si Lolita, the new Lolita Lempicka. This Thursday I am buying myself a bottle :)

  24. Posted on 26 October 2009

    I’m handicapped because I dislike usually dislike carnation, but I’ll babble on anyway:

    Tubereuse Couture is the only tuberose I’ve tried that wasn’t “too much”. It’s a fairly soft floral, but it’s not soft because it’s shy and little-girly, it just isn’t interested in taking the trouble to shout. And it has enough non-tuberose notes to be more interesting than just plain tuberose.

    All the spice suggestions also make me think of Tea for Two, but there’s no floral at all in Tea for Two, so that might eliminate it.

    Bois 1920 Sutra Ylang? I’m not quite sure why, but this seems right. There’s floral, there’s a little carnation (and I like it here; that’s interesting), some spices, some wood.

    Another vote for Jo Malone White Jasmine & Mint – pretty, but not a sugary, boring kind of pretty.

  25. Mademoiselle
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    Maybe Chanel Coco Mademoiselle? It’s a warm, somewhat floral Oriental that reminds me of Dolce and Gabbana The One, but not as sweet.

  26. RusticDove
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    I don’t have anything to add to the good suggestions for Susan, but I am struck by all of the ‘carnation’ talk here today. I’m just reading this after the new ‘Pretty Woman’ fragrance introduction and I commented about carnation there. Funny.

  27. miss kitty v.
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    Adding one more as a long-shot: Givenchy Ysatis. The caveat is that I don’t think the current formulation is as good. (Although compare it to a lot of new releases and it’s head and shoulders about them.) I found a pre-reformulation vintage at Goodwill, so it can be found. It’s really lovely, in a not-to-floral not-too-spicy sort of way.

  28. Rappleyea
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    Hi Susan! I’m going to suggest Guerlain’s Jardins de Bagatelle – a very pretty floral and, at least on me, not nearly as frightening as the notes might suggest. I’ve been wearing it a lot lately.

    Also, Carthusia’s Fiori di Capri popped into my mind as a light and pretty floral, but I’m not sure of price and ease of availability on that one. Good luck!

  29. Dixie
    Posted on 26 October 2009

    Hi Susan!
    Kelly Caleche EDP came to mind immediately for you. A classic to consider is Guerlain Shalimar. Can’t wait to see what you end up enjoying!

  30. Susan
    Posted on 27 October 2009

    Thank you all for your wonderful ideas! I see a few that I’ve considered and not followed up with. And what a treasure trove of things I’ve never heard of..can’t wait to get started.

    Promise I’ll let you all know what I end up with!

    Susan

  31. flittersniffer
    Posted on 28 October 2009

    A bit late to comment but would recommend:

    Agent Provocateur
    Juliette Has a Gun Lady Vengeance
    Les Parfums de Rosine Rose Kashmirie

    Rosy, pretty, partly spicy perfumes with an edge.

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