The downtown Goodwill has been good to me. Over the past year alone, it has yielded a bottle of vintage Guerlain Mitsouko Parfum de Toilette, a pair of midcentury Carlo of Hollywood watercolors, and a taxidermied pheasant (now in my office and nicknamed “Fester” by the finance department). Two weeks ago, I really hit the jackpot: copy number 172 of Visionaire No. 42, Scent.1
Of course, I had no idea what it was when I found it. Sitting on Goodwill’s perfume shelf next to bottles of Prince Matchabelli Wind Song, Liz Claiborne Realities, and a few other fragrances I found easy to pass by was a rectangular, white padded-vinyl box with nearly inscrutable lettering stamped into the vinyl. I did, though, recognize “IFF” stamped at the top.
“Do you know what it is?” the cashier asked as she came around the counter. “I couldn’t tell, but it looks collectible. I priced it at $19.99.” Ouch, I thought. Nineteen ninety-nine for this dingy plastic thing? We opened the box. On the left side was a booklet of photographs. I leafed through it and recognized many of the artist’s names: Mario Testino, Gus Van Sant, Vanessa Beecroft. On the right side were twenty-one 5 ml atomizers of fragrance, each corresponding to a different photograph. I looked back at the booklet. Photograph 13 was “wasteland” by Andreas Gursky. Sophia Grojsman made its matching fragrance. Photograph 8 was “success” by David Bowie with a fragrance by Christophe Laudamiel. Now $19.99 was looking like a bargain.
Back at the office with Fester supervising, I looked up Visionaire online. Visionaire is a company that issues what it calls a “multi-format album of fashion and art produced in exclusive numbered limited editions” three times a year. Each zine is interactive and invites the reader to explore a different sense or concept. Past issues include taste, sun, erotica, sport, and white, among others. Visionaire will sell you a Goyard trunk to house your issues for $54,000 — or you can buy the trunk full of the first 50 issues of Visionaire for $150,000.
To get an idea of what 42 Scent is like, the Visionaire website has a 42 Scent “experience” with a handful of the images from the booklet online. Have a look at the images, and I’ll describe some of the accompanying scents for you. Number 1, “cold” smells like a slightly sweet Issey Miyake Eau d’Issey (photo by Mario Sorrenti, fragrance by Vera Degen). Ozonic with a hint of melon. “Hunger”, number 4, smells like straight-up bread (photo by Karl Lagerfeld, scent by Sandrine Malin). “Sadness”, number 7, smells like cleaning products with a hint of violet and patchouli — kind of like a hospital might smell (photo by Sam Taylor-Wood, scent by Laurent le Guernec).
“Hunger”, a photo of a naked guy holding a rustic, round loaf of bread over his privates, is an example of some of the boringly obvious photo/scent combinations. Yes, we know a person can hunger for more than food and that man cannot live on bread alone. (Don’t even get me started on “wet” and “instinct”.)
“Drunk” takes a slightly different approach. The scent, another by Laurent le Guernec, is of the dead end of a glass of whiskey: warm, caramel-like, and alcoholic. The photo, by Gus Van Sant, doesn’t show any alcohol at all. It’s a giddy, light-filled image of a boyishly handsome man laughing in a cafe and gesticulating with a cigarette.
Some of the presentation is simply perplexing. Sure, I see how “gigabyte” could be portrayed as bands of color. But why does it smell like a sweet roll? Plus, Visionaire’s font is cryptic. A friend and I spent five minutes puzzling over why “brat” was a photo of a Fellini-esque beach featuring print sundresses and lounging cats, and why it smelled like an upended steam iron. Then we figured out it was really “heat” (photo by Philip-Lorca diCorcia, scent by Christophe Laudamiel).
All in all, though, I’m really enjoying 42 Scent. Linking fragrance to image — or music or touch — is a natural. It’s hard to describe a scent fully without creating a larger story to envelope it. 42 Scent brings us those stories in photographs.
I saw a few copies of Visionare No. 42 Scent online for about $250. Or, you can scour thrift stores. (If you stumble upon the Goyard trunk at the Salvation Army, let me know.)
1. Visionaire No. 42 was originally published in December 2003.
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What an interesting story of how you found this! I must smell success, since Christophe Laudamiel is one of my very favourites, and I’m a Bowie fan. I actually find myself fascinated by WET, the only one of this set I’ve worn. The accompanying photo is tiresome, but the scent is just so weird, that I can’t decide whether I like it or hate it.
Do you have the set, then? “Success” smells like metallic sugar to me, which matches the image of Iman’s hand intercepting a stream of sugar that falls into it and piles around it.
“Wet” is borderline creepy to me, but fascinating, true.
That is very cool – what a score.
It’s really interesting. I wouldn’t buy it new, but it’s fun to have and peruse on an evening. I wish I could invite everyone over and we could dig into it together!
Party at Angela’s place!!!! BYONose…
(Uh, just kidding about that. Please don’t everybody descend upon Angela, wearing togas and bearing Doritos, Bud Light, and pickled eggs.)
Wait a minute–have you been to my parties before? Sounds like it!
Pickled eggs? College parties must sure be different in the Middle West.
I’ve only had a pickled egg once, and that was in Idaho.
egad! I hope NEVER to have even that first pickled egg! ack!
Oh no, pickled eggs are delicious — and beautiful if they’re pickled in beet pickling juice. I’ve just never heard of them at a college toga party… but Mals doesn’t have to explain everything about her interesting past, that’s okay….
Ha – I do quite like the idea of a party centered around sniffing and discussing this little collection. While sipping fine wine of course. [Well, for those of you who don't go for that sort of thing - we could have fine teas.] What a fun evening that would be.
I’ll join you with the wine, but put on the kettle just in case! It would be a fun party.
Well, I can’t drink wine anymore so I’ll bring a case of Mojitos but I want some of Mals’s Doritos….those darn things are addictive!
Doritos are deadly addictive, true! Keep me away from the cheetos, too.
Are pickled eggs addictive too?
Oh Angela! I haven’t found that we’re scent twins (although I always love your posts) but we ARE snack twins!! Doritos and Cheetos – two of my all time favorites! Although my after work snack as I type is raw cheese and baked Guiltless Gourmet chips.
Alas, no Doritos in this house.
Snack twins is pretty good! To tell the truth, it’s been a long time since I’ve had a Dorito. But I have fond memories.
You find the COOLEST stuff! What fun you must be having. And the Salvation Army line at the end made me SNORT!….which was really sort of unpleasant seeing as I was stuffing a banana slice on a vanilla wafer in my face at the time. (I think I have banana in my sinuses…erk) But thanks for the story anyhow.
You’re welcome! Too bad visionaire didn’t do “snort” as a photo with a banana/vanilla wafer accompanying scent.
that would have been some photo! me with one hand over my mouth, face all red and my eyes watering…..
We’d have to find a true artist to capture all that!
or a bucket…..
What a great find, Angela. My best friend is a thrift- and consignment-store addict, and it can really be rewarding. I should have her keep an eye out for me on the fragrance shelves, since trawling thrift stores is rarely my idea of a good time. Antique malls are another story, but even those I don’t get to very often.
Thanks for sharing this with us.
I love scouring thrift stores–I find it relaxing and stimulating at the same time. Every shelf is a window into society’s psyche, plus you can find good stuff. (Fester nods his beak in agreement.)
So true!
Score! It’s exactly this kind of find that makes me with I had the tenacity to go thrifting.
It’s true that you need the occasional score to make it worth it. But when you hit that jackpot, it’s a great feeling!
Just wanted to add – my husband called me a couple weeks ago while I was sifting through the treasure at Good will and he sounded confused… “Isn’t that for poor people?” he asked – LOL!
He should applaud your thrifty habits!
It sounds like the “hunger” in this portfolio got a wide release as “Liquid Karl” at H&M stores. From the sniffing I gave it, it was an interesting gourmand fragrance that smelled heavily of bread pudding, which sounds very similar to what you’re describing. I remember reading somewhere that Liquid Karl was originally going to be released as the name Hunger actually!
Fascinating! Maybe it’s because Lagerfeld is such a famous dieter, drinking powders in water and all that. He probably dreams of pain au chocolat.
Who doesn’t?
Good point!
So, what I want to know is, who are these other people in Portland who are shipping off their Mitsouko and their old copies of Visionaire to Goodwill? Actually, never mind, I can totally imagine the downtown design firm that would ship off the Visionaire…
Yes, we have a lot of those types here. Gus Van Sant lives here, you know. Maybe it was his copy.
I suspect a lot of the good stuff is given away by the heirs to the person who bought it–it’s not money, jewelry, or anything they think they can sell on *b***, so out it goes.
You’re probably right.
Oooh, you lucky duck! Congrats on your great finds!
I check out my local Goodwill about once a week or so (my fave hobby is repurposing old furniture with updated techniques and styling) and have gotten Shiseido Zen for $1, Guerlain’s Insolence for $2, and a new in box, intact Bobbi Brown eyeshadow in Bone for $1! I’m always on the lookout for vintage fragrance, but haven’t found anyhting yet… your review renews my hope I will!
Great deals! There’s definitely vintage perfume out there, just keep looking.
I’m truly in awe of your scores!
My find of the day was a bottle of vintage Femme perfume, mostly full, in an oval lace box, and L’Air Du Temps perfume in a square yellow velvet box, $4.99 each.
Got to love those thrift stores.
holy cow!! fabulous finds! Lucky you! Seems I must wander around in some thrift stores…..
That’s terrific!
Angela, your find was marvelous! I don’t get downtown often enough to check out that store.
It’s so close to the library, that I find myself wandering in every few weeks.
wow! what a score!
It really was lucky! I almost think I should smell it all, then give it back to the Goodwill so someone else can be so lucky.
I horde it! LOL.
Angela- what a score! I should be so lucky as you. There is one antique store here and I have seen a few vintage fragrances, but nothing like you managed to come across. I’d love to come across some of the original Halston. Congrats!
I see the original Halston out there a lot, actually. Keep looking!
A,
Have we ever talked about the thrift store on 128th and Powell? It is a goldmine! We must go someday. I scored a vintage pair of Famolare sandals there that are to-die-for
The place is skankier than skanky, but it’s worth it!
~T
I’ve been to the one at 205 and Powell. You mean that one? I’ve found Tigress and an old bottle of Tweed there.
It’s Veteran’s Charities Thrift Store at 124th and Powell (I was thinking 128th). Anyway, we should hit it sometime!
~T
I replied in the wrong spot below….you can delete!
Yes! Let’s do it. We can stop at one of the Asian places for lunch. We’d have a blast.
Visionaire and Famolare? I wish I was thrifting in Portland! My recently acquired psychedelic Talbot’s Petites suit lacks that kind of cachet, but makes up for it in giant shoulder pads.
It’s Veteran’s Charities Thrift Store at 124th and Powell (I was thinking 128th). Anyway, we should hit it sometime!
~T
I don’t know–a psychedelic Talbot’s suit has got to be a collector’s item. Maybe you should host a Dynasty party!
Holy smoke, that’s a truly incredible find, and perhaps one day I’ll stop being skeeved out by thrift stores enough to follow your shining example. I’ll bet the too-fabulous-for-words people who produce Visionaire would weep if they knew this had ended up at Goodwill!
I figure a little filth keeps the immune system humming. Besides, thrifting is in my blood. My father is an A-1 scavenger. He can find anything at a swap meet, and watch out pawn shops.
My father was awesome with a metal detector!
Scavenging must be part of the human DNA.
What a great find, Angela! I’ve never thought of going to the Salvos for perfumes – I will have to try that one day.
And what a great concept from Visonaire. I can totally relate to Drunk – drunk with happiness right? It’s a much better high than from drinking too much alcohol! LOL.
Wish more companies did this kind of thing
I know, I love the drunk on happiness idea, too! The photo makes me happy. The scent makes me thirsty.
Which downtown Goodwill is this? the one by the central library or the one up Burnside I think it’s on the corner of 21st… I’ve had my best luck at the Goodwiill tucked behind the Lloyd Center. For some reason it’s crammed full of the best finds, so delighfully random. I think I must have a doppleganger with good taste who donates there because I’m always finding my size shoes and blazers there.
Lucky you! I’ve never found much at that Goodwill. An ice cream maker, but that’s it.
Sounds like a great relaxing way to spend some “curled up on a sofa with really bad weather outside, Sunday afternoon” What a great find Angela. In my land of “plenty”, the words vintage, historic,,Goodwill, thrift..hardly exist…..almost impossible to find anything like that…also we don’t have much nature….
Here we have loads of top of the line designer stuff and hey, if a building or interior is a couple of days old,,,,they go about redoing it!!!
You’re so right–a rainy Sunday afternoon (and there are lots of those!) with the Visionaire will be wonderful. I usually go to the library for big picture books on Titian or Balenciaga or something like that for those kind of afternoons, but this will be perfect.
hey try one day to research “Farina” it is the original eau de colonge from germany and has just celebrated 300years anniversary. My hubby just came home frome there and told me they said that they haven’t changed their formulas in all those years?!!! So he bought me a bottle of an eau de cologne with grapes called “riesling” together with a small bottle of their orignial and a whole lot of pamphlets and book on their history. Haven’t yet opened the cologne..we have left summer and i kind of want to wait for hot weather again
That’s a new one to me–I’ll have to learn more about it. What a great gift, though!
Treasure.
I truly lucked out. Good timing.
Awesome find at an amazing price! Very cool. I love thrift stores …
I’m a big fan, too (obviously). I wish I could share it with all of you.
Wow, I really have to go that Goodwill store, I had no idea they had that sort of inventory. What a find! I have found great stuff at the one I go to, but not in the perfume category.
I really think it’s mostly about going frequently. It’s probably only every 10 outings that I find something I want to take home, but I enjoy the hunt, so it’s o.k. with me. But good luck with your searches!
WHAT.A.FIND!!!!! Thanks for sharing! I doubt I’d be able to get the Goyard trunk version (or any version!) of it and am so glad to know what it’s like.
I’m lucky to have found it! Honestly, though, all kinds of interesting stuff shows up in thrift stores. I wouldn’t be surprised if the Goyard trunk did rear its head somewhere.
Angela, it’s a good thing you’re not here in Vancouver, or we’d be trying to push each other off the sidewalk in our simultaneous mad dash to the vintage thrift store fragrance bargoons.
I may have mentioned this before, but I LOVE Steve, the big, muscular dude who not only uncrates all the boxes of donations in the back room of my local Sally Ann, but also decides on all the prices. The older and smaller the fragrance box and/or bottle, the cheaper he prices it. So the monster bottle of Happy is $19.99, and the quarter-ounce bottle of l’interdit parfum, red satin box ‘n’ all, is $6.99. (Thanks, Steve!)
I get everything at thrift stores these days. We needed a bunch of towels for the beach shack this summer, and I scoured the racks at Value Village, zeroing in on the thick, plush !00% Egyptian cotton bath sheets. No, they weren’t all matchy-matchy, but the roses, teals and peaches look beautiful together and they were all $2.99 and $3.99 each and good as new. And you guys know how much you’d pay at full retail for the new ones.
I’m with you on that. My aesthetic is completely open to the odd, funky lamp, the scratched but cool end table, and the murano ashtray (even though I don’t smoke). Really, food, underwear, and lipstick are about all I buy new it seems.
Which Sally Ann in Vancouver has perfume finds? The only perfume score I’ve ever had here was an empty Floris bottle at the SPCA…
Great story Robin!
OMG – I”ve wanted to own this for YEARS, ever since I first heard about it. I’ve never been able to afford a new one ($250) and I can’t believe that you found one for $20.
Enjoy!!
After a while I’m sure I’ll have soaked all the goodness out of it that I want, and it will be sitting on a shelf. Then I’ll send it to you! Gently used but ready to make someone else happy.
I’m so happy that the person who found it is a person who could appreciate it. Obvously not the case of the person who donated it to the Salvation Army in the first place. Their loss is your good gain. Thanks for sharing such an interesting story. Denise
It is nice when something goes to someone who will use it, it’s true! I tell myself that when I have something that I’m hanging on to for no good reason and need to give up.
great find! i never have any luck at that goodwill …!
I think it’s all about having more time than money and doing lots of pass-throughs. It takes a lot of trips to find something good sometimes.
greetings to fester
Fester squawks hello to you, too!
I’ll simply add my congratulations to everyone else’s. My problem is that I don’t do any kind of shopping, except food. Everything else, and I mean everything, I buy on-line!
The Visionaire concept sounds like it would make a good Lazy Friday Poll (hint hint) let everyone match a perfume to a word or concept totally unrelated to scent. OR… you all could supply the words and let us supply the scents. Either way…
Shopping online sure is easy, it’s true!