Quick perfume news: Chloe, Serge Lutens, top selling perfumes in France

Chloe Eau de Parfum Intense

Chloé will launch Chloé Eau de Parfum Intense this fall (“enchanting and imperial, ideal for the winter season”). The new variation on the 2007 Chloé Eau de Parfum features a grey ribbon. (via moodiereport)

Serge Lutens will launch two new fragrances in 2009. Fourreau Noir (with tonka bean and lavender) will join the exclusive line; Fille en Aiguilles (with pine needles and incense) will join the export line. Read more at Osmoz.

The top selling women’s perfumes in France for 2008 (listed in order of sales): Chanel No. 5, Dior J’Adore, Thierry Mugler Angel, Chanel Coco Mademoiselle and Kenzo Flower. (from the NPD Group via fashionmag.fr)

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47 Comments

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  1. miss kitty v.
    Posted on 11 June 2009

    Am I the only one who is tired of flankers? Can’t someone do an altogether new perfume?

    The Lutens–now those I might be interested in, even though so far none of them have really been “me.”

    • Robin
      Posted on 11 June 2009

      You know, I don’t even know if it should be called a flanker…it’s just a new concentration. Seems to be the new thing, to release new concentrations slowly instead of all at once.

      • miss kitty v.
        Posted on 11 June 2009

        I know, it just gets my hopes up: “Something new! Oh…no. It’s not.” :( And even though more intense is always good in my book, anything sold as the “intense” version never seems to ring my bell. Maybe I’m just having a whiny week…

    • Dagmar
      Posted on 11 June 2009

      I’m with you. Flankers always strike me as lame, however nice they may smell. However, I suppose it’s fair if it is a different concentration or a variation on a theme… Still, it’s always nice to have something new. On the Chloe front, the original strikes me as quite intense (that is, very strong and long-lasting) itself, so this should be wild.

    • thenoseknows
      Posted on 12 June 2009

      HONEY CHILE!!! I have been decrying flankers for ever and a month! I am tired of them… New Concentration, Pillar Flanker, WHATEV!!!!! Concentrate all that money you spend on re-arranging the notes in the fragrance to only smell SLIGHTY different than the original on creating something TRULY ORIGINAL! URGH!

  2. jirish
    Posted on 11 June 2009

    The Fille en Aiguilles sounds right up my alley. Hope it’s out by fall, it sounds like an autumny scent.

    • boojum
      Posted on 11 June 2009

      Ditto… and YAY for liking the sounds of the export rather than the exclusive! :D Of course, very few of the SLs have worked on me at all anyway…too sweet.

      • monstabunny
        Posted on 20 June 2009

        me too on the sweet thing with SL. The base always reminds me a stewed fruits – moves your bowels at least. But a couple of them totally enchant me. Bois de Violette is one. The other is Sa Majeste La Rose which is pretty straightforward and rather loud if you use the spray. The salesman claimed that Serge advises you to use the little plastic tube that extends from the sprayer into the juice. Swipe it lightly on the skin and you get the freshest loveliest rose note, great all by itself. He also insisted you have to shake the bottle on all SL’s stuff before you use. Anyway that plastic tube advice I took to heart – but when I went to try a few of the exclusives at the Palais Royal boutique, they slathered the juice on with a big brush – talk about overkill! So maybe Serge didn’t really promote the tube application – but still it worked for me with that one scent. Wish I could wear others of his but they either nauseate me with their sweetness or they’re too damn difficult.

    • Robin
      Posted on 11 June 2009

      In general I haven’t been as thrilled by SL lately as I used to be…look forward to trying both, but there are other things I’m more excited about this year.

  3. Daisy
    Posted on 11 June 2009

    I read somewhere that a bottle of Chanel sells every 30 seconds.
    Not that anyone cares but I thought that was cool.

    Anyhooo….what is it with ribbons today? The Chloe EdP features a gray ribbon ….huh? How is that a selling feature? Oh wait maybe it symbolizes Chloe’s secret power……

    • Robin
      Posted on 11 June 2009

      Bear in mind that they apparently spent MONTHS picking out the first Chloe ribbon, which as many people have snidely pointed out, appears to have been chosen with more care than the juice.

      • Daisy
        Posted on 11 June 2009

        oh well then….months picking out a ribbon? these folks apparently have more spare time than we do! But I suppose, based on their extreme ribbon fixation….the gray ribbon could be very significant…..(hahahahaha, sorry, I really am trying to take it seriously!….I’m just not succeeding.)

        • Robin
          Posted on 11 June 2009

          LOL…was not expecting to convince anybody, least of all me, that the ribbon mattered.

  4. Mary Beth
    Posted on 11 June 2009

    I think I may need Fourreau Noir. Lavendar & tonka = possible bliss.
    BTW, Rob, saw you’re in the NYT style section today. Way to go.

  5. Suzanne941
    Posted on 11 June 2009

    Hey, cool! I can’t get the link to post, but put it up, Robin! Please?

    • Robin
      Posted on 11 June 2009

      Here you go:

      http://www.nytimes.com/2009/06/11/fashion/11skin.html

      Sadly, they didn’t give me a link, boo hoo.

      • Suzanne941
        Posted on 11 June 2009

        I saw that. But this article is so interesting…$20 million to produce a large commerical perfume? Class: read and discuss.

        • Robin
          Posted on 11 June 2009

          A huge proportion of that cost is for advertising, and some companies spend even more.

      • boojum
        Posted on 11 June 2009

        No…but it was a good article, and I’d bet you’ll get a bunch of Google-driven hits nonetheless.

        • miss kitty v.
          Posted on 11 June 2009

          After reading that all I could think was, wow, if no one else is buying perfume, WE’RE the ones keeping the perfume industry alive! ;)

          • boojum
            Posted on 11 June 2009

            I thought: If teenagers and young women are particularly indifferent… WHY do they keep targeting that audience? Hmm? Quit producing all the candied crap targeting an audience that doesn’t care, and bring out fewer, but more interesting scents the rest of us can actually wear!

          • monstabunny
            Posted on 20 June 2009

            I think they keep targeting them because when you hit a winner with that demographic, you hit big. Think Tommy Girl.

      • bergere
        Posted on 11 June 2009

        Hey, Robin! You’re famous!
        Thank you, Boojum, for pointing out what manufacturers need to hear: they’ve got the wrong target audience!

        • lilydale aka Natalie
          Posted on 11 June 2009

          Ah, but then they’d have to actually put money and thought into developing something interesting rather than just cranking out more Eau de Fresh Berried Teenybopper clones. If they were smart they’d shift their dough out of the PR blitzes, use it to develop something really great, then engineer a stealth marketing campaign by letting the blogs do all the work. When I run the world…

          • Daisy
            Posted on 11 June 2009

            um, Lily…we’re friends, right? so when you run the world, could I please have New Zealand? I’d take really good care of it….

          • lilydale aka Natalie
            Posted on 11 June 2009

            New Zealand? No way, that one’s all mine! How would you like, say, North Korea instead? OK, OK, how about Uruguay? They’ve got penguins…

      • annemarie
        Posted on 11 June 2009

        Thanks for the link Robin. Really interesting. Maybe the market will shed a whole lot of trivial fragrances – here’s hoping. Tho’ I must put in a good word fro SJP’s Lovely – the original, that is, not the flankers.

        And I’m a big fan of smaller bottles – 30ml is ideal for me. Even with a fragrance I love it takes me a while to get through a 50ml bottle, and as for 100mls, forget it. I anticipate that it will take at least two years to get through my 50mls of the EDT of Chanel No. 5 (I’m one of the few who appreciates the EDT more than the EDP). After that I will be quite happy to go out and buy a fresh one.

        • Robin
          Posted on 12 June 2009

          Was interested to see how little “shedding” seems to be happening so far this year…perhaps it will happen yet though!

  6. monstabunny
    Posted on 11 June 2009

    Fourreau sounds like Brin de Reglisse territory. Lutens versus Ellena – now that’s a duel I’d pay to see.

  7. Serafima
    Posted on 11 June 2009

    Hmm… new Chloe Intense bottle design is so-so. The yellow juice could have red ribbon or whatever, but dark grey is not very pretty or at least elegant (Chloe EDP in my opinion is elegant).
    In fact, I find too that too much flankers there… I know that it’s more possibility to find yours, but come on- it’s better to create a one but good perfume than 5 times vary the same.
    Well.. and Serge Lutens.. after I lie my pretty hands on Shiseido’s Feminite du Bois, I think I just have to order some samples of SL (since we have no SL in my country) and new Fille en Aiguilles with pine + incense for me sounds pretty funeral. Can’t wait to experience it.

    • Robin
      Posted on 11 June 2009

      Flankers are also cheaper to make though…that’s why we get so many of them.

  8. bergere
    Posted on 11 June 2009

    What’s with little black dresses recently? (“Fourreau” is literally the sheath of a sword, but also refers to a sheath dress). And the “Filles en aiguilles” is a little scary, whether it’s needles or pine needles. On the other hand, the Filles is intriguing.

    • Robin
      Posted on 11 June 2009

      Fragrances trying to position themselves the same way, I guess…indispensable & classic, even though the Guerlain was anything but.

  9. cazaubon
    Posted on 11 June 2009

    The Fourreau doesn’t sound too good (lavender and I are not good friends, and tonka bean doesn’t excite me too much either) but Fille en Aiguilles sounds right up my alley! Looking forward to fall already (and we haven’t even had summer yet – the weather stinks in SoCal).

    • Robin
      Posted on 11 June 2009

      The weather stinks here too…I could probably wear either today.

  10. asuperlongusername
    Posted on 11 June 2009

    I was just thinking how much I loved the smell of pine needles and started going over what they should go with. Though I think incense doesn’t sound very original, I can’t wait to try it.

  11. Posted on 12 June 2009

    Fourreau Noir sounds pretty good..

  12. Blimunda
    Posted on 12 June 2009

    Even though most Serge Lutens scents are utterly unwearable on me, I still enjoy sampling them and appreciating their character and daring. MKK and R.Louhkoum are surprisingly the only ones I would wear (so far – i havn’t tried them all!), and i love them both. But the new export release sounds very intriguing, and I will try it simply becoz it is from Serge.
    People like Serge, Linda Pilkington, Andy Tauer, CB and Frederic Malle are wonderful god sends in our wretched world! I particularly admire Frederic Malle’s business philosophy – his company resembles an Olfactory Repertory Theatre! He is the Artistic Director who invites artists to create their heart’s desires and gives them the tools and funding to do so – he offers a safe, supportive environment in which they can experiment and create without commercial pressures.

    • Robin
      Posted on 12 June 2009

      From everything I hear, they don’t really necessarily do whatever they want (that is, FM himself does more “curating” than people realize), but still, it’s a fabulous line, and after all these years still one of the best.

  13. Posted on 14 June 2009

    There’s something odd and mismatched about the colour of that grey ribbon… And the juice looks so yellow as to resemble some bodily fluid…

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