After a dazzling Indian summer, I woke up this morning knowing that fall finally had arrived. It was still dark when the alarm went off, and I reached for my wool robe and fleece-lined slippers. The dog was curled up tight against the chill. Tonight the crickets are quiet, geese honk overhead, and I've put an extra blanket on the bed. It's time to switch to perfume that feels as warm as a cashmere sweater.
When I think of warm, soft, uncomplicated scents — scents warm and thick as cashmere — I think of amber, patchouli, and wood. Incense and leather can sometimes feel too cold or intellectual, depending on how they're treated. Scents loaded with coriander and other spices can be wonderful, but sometimes they feel cold to me, too, like iced tea or air-conditioned auto upholstery. Don't get me wrong, I love leather, incense, and spice in the winter, but when I want something fluffy and warm, I'm likely to reach past Donna Karan Black Cashmere, Chanel Cuir de Russie, and Yves Saint Laurent Nu for my decant of Annick Goutal Ambre Fétiche. I smell its soft texture. It's warm. This isn't a hard and fast rule, though. Bond no. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory is an incense fragrance that reads warm to me, maybe thanks to its amber and the patchouli that lingers on my skin as it dries down.
Amber is one of the primary notes I'm drawn to when I'm cold. Besides Ambre Fétiche, Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan and the amber in the much maligned Lorenzo Villoresi Alamut take the chill off easily. The powder in Alamut boosts its warming power. It's easy to overdo amber, though, just like it's easy to eat too much dulce de leche. But a little amber on a cold morning is welcome.
Wood smells good to me, too, when I feel the chill. Not sharp, cedar wood, but wood that smells like it's ready to be tossed into the fire. For work, I like Shiseido Femininité du Bois for its blend of comfort and elegance. For any time, I love Serge Lutens Chêne. Chêne is the ultimate firewood scent. Smelling it is like stacking wood in the garage in the dog days of summer or sitting next to a clean, hot fireplace. L'Artisan Bois Farine is nice, too. It smells almost edible, like a pastry cream made of sawdust.
Patchouli is also warming to me when it's cold. Not all patchouli works that way, though. Some patchouli, like L'Artisan Voleur des Roses, feels cold and moody. Even L'Artisan Patchouli Patch can feel wet and cold, to me. Comme des Garçons Patchouli Luxe is warm with its edge of its curry-like spice, but its pepper and spice takes it out of the thoughtless comfort zone. For me, Montale Patchouli Leaves is an ideal patchouli “cashmere sweater” scent because it blends earthy, aged patchouli with vanilla and amber for an almost custard-like feel.
Powder can warm up a scent for me, too, as can tobacco and immortelle. Maybe it's because these accords are often blended with amber or patchouli, like Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque, Molinard Habanita, and Annick Goutal Duel are.
What are your “cashmere sweater” fragrances? What scents do you turn to for comfort and warmth? I'm taking notes. Winter is on the horizon.
Note: image is Cashmere Sweaters (cropped) by colros at flickr; some rights reserved.
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Laura Mercier's new limited edition Nuits Enchantees. Purr-fect for fall and just the kind of smell you want on your cashmere wrap.
Right now I'm really wishing my t-shirt and sweater shelves looked like that photo…
I agree with you regarding amber and woods being so cozy– and it feels SO nice to break out the fall scents recently (even here in central-southern Calif.). I LOVE your description of Bois Farine as pastry cream made of sawdust! It's really a terrific scent.
My faves include the ambery Hypnôse Homme, and for a cheap thrill the sweet amber-myrrh of L'Occitane Eau d'Iparie. The incense and woods of Timbuktu is ideal anytime, but especially in cool weather, and I must admit I actually find Voleur de Roses very much a cozy scent, along with the powdery-spice of Burberry Brit for Men. I have not tried Chêne, but love the warmth of SL Cèdre. Must try Montale's Patchouli Leaves, and I think I'm going to be turning to their Red Aoud a lot this winter — I bought it in summer and the weather really hasn't been right for it just yet.
Great post! It's still warm here so I'm still reaching for the hot weather stuff, but cannot wait to dive into my fall collection. SSS's Ambra de Nepal dupe is a favorite cashmere sweater, as is Lea Extreme and Organza Indecence.
I think it's all the rain that we get here that pulls Voleur de Roses into the wet and cold category for me. Please try Chene–I love it! Next time I'm at the mall I'm getting a sample of Hypnose for men, too. Thanks!
I forgot about Ambra del Nepal! It's a very warm and cozy scent.
I'm jealous of the warmth there, as much as I love fall. Fall is so bittersweet….
Hi Angela! I'm not an amber fan, but love patchouli in small doses. I tried Noir Epices the other day, and it was wonderful. A great warm, fall scent.
Chene is the BEST winter perfume! (and is furthermore in my top 5 perfumes I hope to always have)…
I will also be wearing Andy Warhol Silver Factory, SSS Fireside and Black Cashmere (warm and cozy to me!) this winter- but since I live in South Texas- and it's often 80 degrees on Christmas afternoon, it may be 2009 until these are in heavy rotation…
Lovely thread! Cashmere sweater scents for me would also be Black Cashmere, Cashmere Mist, Lalique Perles de Lalique (top contender!), Bvlgari Jasmin Noir (it is everything to me at the moment), Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille, maybe Nuit de Noel or Parfum Sacre too? Oh and Bois des Iles. Mmmm, snuggle and sigh…!
Sorry – you reached PAST Black Cashmere, but I do find that comforting in winter. Okay, maybe it is a slightly pilled cashmere sweater, but though it is a little ascetic, we are not talking horsehair shirt!
I've grown to love patchouli over time. I think I was prejudiced against it because of all the bad patchouli out there.
Noir Epices is such a good one! I had a bottle I swapped away a long time ago, and I still regret it.
I adore Chene. Tigs (aka Erin) got me started on it. It's fabulous.
Not having a winter perfume season would be a drag. I hope you can take a vacation to somewhere that can stand up to some spice and amber.
HV, I am paying close attention to your further rec of Chene, as you take the credit for introducing me to the lovely Lacoste pour Femme!
I don't reach for Black Cashmere, but the others you named? They sound terrific.
There's something about how balanced the spices in Black Cashmere are that chill it down for me. It's hard to explain, but it ends up not feeling creamy enough somehow.
Well then, I don't feel quite so sorry for you.
Sorry, the “coveted bell jar”? Is there a link to Sylvia Plath I am missing, or to a Guerlan beehive? Tell me where this bell jar is, and I'm there on my perfume spree next month!
Gosh, now I see Plath's poetry in a whole new light!
I think what HV is referring to is the shape of the non-export Serge Lutens bottles: a sweet bell shape rather than the rectangular, minimalist bottles he exports.
Yes, and he will only ship his bell jars in Europe (not to the U.S.)…
Got it!! Doh!! Now you mention it, I recall a beautiful image on the Internet of a purple bell jar for Sarrasins that I nearly used for my desktop wallpaper (currently sporting an inky blue print ad for Rousse!), but in Les Senteurs (my SL outlet of choice in London), they do 'em in the straight up and downy bottles.
organza indecence, L de lolita lempicka, ambre narguile all come to mind. yum.
Hi there!
I love your list, to which I would add Chaos, AG Sables (Duel on me has iris, which smells good year round), and Passage d'Enfer. Of course, Nu is a great fragrance, often overlooked and highly underrated.
May I ask why you feel incense, leather and some spices feel cold? I'm just wondering, because I find them, especially incense, too “close” to wear in warmer weather. Actually, a good leather is mostly fine, but incense and heavier spices like coriander feel cloying. However, come cooler weather, I tend to crave them more and more, especially spices.
Hugs!
Such evocative descriptions! And a good reminder that I need to pick up a decant of Encre Noir.
I'd forgotten about Ambre Narguile. Definitely a cashmere sweater scent!
Hello, R! I usually save incense, spice, and leather (except maybe Bandit) for cooler weather too. They're nicer in cooler weather, but they aren't necessarily as “warming” to me as the others. Some of my favorites even fall into this category (Tabac Blond, Ormonde Woman, for example).
On the other hand, when I think of a cashmere sweater scent, I think of something uncomplicated and toasty.
I really fell in love with Aqua Allegoria's Winter Delice – warm gingerbread, pine wood, incense – it doesn't make this scent feeling colder on my skin. Nothing reminds of Christmas as much as this one does! L'Artisan's Tea for Two also makes me think of a warm, warm house and a cup of hot tea in the coldest winter time… Elixir des Merveilles (did I spell it right?) wamrs up my skin pretty well, not that I need it here in South Florida but hey! We are also cold in the winter, even here. I guess I have to remind myself of warm, gourmand scents when I'm cold… hot tea, gingerbread, chocolate and warm spices.
Hey, not only are you making me warm, now I'm hungry! It sounds like the holidays around your house must be pretty delicious.
What a wonderful discussion! I must now try SL's Chene…
I completely agree with Bois farine, and I would also like to add Onyx, BLV Notte, Brandy, Parfumerie Generale's Crime exotique, and Aomassai.
I've been thinking along the same lines, Angela: I've just pulled out Chanel Cuir de Russie for wearing (which promptly inspired a long-delayed review of this most-beloved scent). It feels like home. Bois des Iles will soon be coming into the line-up as well, though it's still warm here in Paris. I think L'Artisan's Safran Troublant, worn all summer, will also do marvellously in cooler weather. So will Serge Noire, with that plush benzoin fleshing out the incense.
Hello!
I tend to reach for my beloved Narciso Rodriguez EDP. It reminds me that fall has fallen. Also: Flowerbomb, Love Story, Chanel 19, Bois de Violette. These have all come to the front my collection; sadly, AG Neroli and LA Premier Figuier are going into hibernation. Bois Farine is on my wish list right now!!
L'Eau d”Hiver is a wonderful fall scent, although i love it almost any time. And Frapin's Caravelle des Epicee has a nice spice/amber mix that will wram you (and the sheets) in a most delicious way.
In Florida, it's not a matter of which fragrances I need to keep me warm in the winter, but it's more like which fragrances are inappropriate for the scalding, ridiculous weather that we get for 90% of the year, but are okay to bring out during the 10 cool days we have.
For me, the main fragrance under that umbrella is Fleur Du Male by JPG. If the weather is hot-hot out, and I wear that, I pretty much die. Also in winter I like Antidote by Viktor and Rolf, Escada and Magnetism by Escada, and Blackberry and Chocolate Amber by Bath and Body Works. There's probably a couple others I'm missing.
Nice, warm choices. Brandy is another perfume that makes me hungry!
Gosh, Boozywood does sound like cashmere in a bottle. And I forgot about Ambre Russe! Another warm one.
I adore Cuir de Russie (and I loved your review of it, too!) but it doesn't feel “cozy” to me. I like to wear it when I'm writing, though. Something about it sharpens my brain.
I'll have to try Safran Troublant in the cold.
N, you are such a romantic! Your perfume selection says it all. Such lovely scents.
Two I have samples of and must dig out of the bin! I'll put them in my bowl full of “next up” scents to try again. Thanks!
I'll be so jealous of your heat once I've endured a few months of rain and dark days.
Isn't Fleur du Male nice?
I want to take a swan dive into the shelf in that photo.
I'm definitely with you on the woods and powder. Today was the first nippy day here in the DC area and I reached immediately for my SSS Opal with its fuzzy sweet powdery goodness. I also really love Costes when it's cold.
Your mention of Costes reminds me of Lubin Idole, too–another good sweater scent.
I have been loving Farnesiana parfum recently. It's a warm, golden embrace of a scent. I think of it as L'Heure Bleue's warm counterpart!
I love fall and love snow and winter even more so I met the autumn equinox with great joy! And all this week I've worn Ambre Precieux, which is the most beautiful amber I've found so far. It is a warm embrace.
Farnesiana is so doughy and wonderful. I like it too, but it reminds me of summer because of the mimosa. But it smells so good in fall!
That's the MPG amber, right? I remember loving the citrus in it.
It's still a little warm here for all-out fall clothing and fragrance, but the cool nights have me dreaming of the lovely brisk days just ahead. I'm finding Safran Troublant and Theorema to be perfect transition fragrances, by the way. Quite versatile, those two. Some of my faves that I think will be perfect for fall: Ambre Narguile, Sienna Musk, Kohdo Night, Punono (Saffron James), and Terre d'Iris. And Une Rose for special!
Ooh, amber with a splash of citrus. Sounds great!
Ooh, amber with a splash of citrus. Sounds great!
It was a creamy orange, as I remember it.
Theorama is another warm one–thanks for reminding me! I think I'll wear it to bed tonight. And another vote for Saffran Troublant.
The original Burberry….no quesiton about it. I bought it last fall, unsniffed (interesting story there, actually), and it was my entrance into the world of perfumes. It reminds me of homecoming, my car's over-eager heater, my brother's letterman jacket, and being “in like”. It feels warm, sophistocated, and surprisingly enthusiastic to me. It's one of my favorites and I long for fall (my favorite season) just so I can let all that flood back. I wear it at other times in the year, but it's not quite the same. Great, but not astounding like it is in cool weather.
Hmmm…I second the Lubin Idole. Smells awfully boozy at first on me, but it reminds me of christmas and I love it. I had so much trouble with Costes, though…I got the two samples at the same time and I just couldn't fall in love with Costes. To me, it smells like Dry Idea deoderant. Not bad, but…not me. Maybe it'll grow on me, but it's got a bad first impression to get over.
Hmmm…that's interesting. Safron Troublant in cold weather. I might have to try that to. I wore it once or twice in the summer and it was sort of instant love…trouble love, but instant anyways. Maybe it'll be a better relationship in the fall.
Armani Sensi
Even an actual sweater with this scent feels warmer:)
Being so hot nearly all the time really isn't as great as you would think. We are going into summer here in Australia and I loathe it! Most of my favourite scents are more suited to cooler weather and when it is stinking hot, which can be more than six months of the year, almost all perfumes feel oppressive. I would love to live in a colder snowy clime but I guess we all want what we don't have!
Angela, I love your metaphors as always. Prada's Infusion d'Iris comes immediately to mind. When it came out, it was marketed as a spring fragrance but I beg to differ. Perhaps it takes on a darker nature on my skin and it's definitely a winter favourite for me.
Great read Angela. My warm favs have been Chene, Bois 1920 Real Patchouly, and Ambre Sultan. I think this Fall I'll be reaching for the Montales…Red, Black and Golden. If you've not tried the 1920…I strongly would suggest…cozy cozy cozy!
L'Heure Bleue is my ultimate fall/winter comfort scent. Collapsing vanilla. I also reach for Le Troisieme Homme quite a bit. Also, while not cashmere sweater by any stretch, Eau d'Orange Verte reminds me that spring is never too far off.
Hey you, you got in there before me with Crime Exotique and Aomassi, though they are a serious spicefest to start with.
And don't you think our new find Kama from Farmacia Annunziata is quite creamy and snuggly too? I also second Armani Sensi, which pops up lower down the thread. LT likens it to well cut beige trousers, but I could imagine a lightweight cashmere knit on the top half!
I LOVE Nu and Hypnotic Poison but never liked Black Cashmere, there's a rose note I can't stand.
Aomassai is very interested but I don't associate it with winter because of the Massai – I just think an arm of black shiny skin, coloured beads around the wrists, holding a spear. A Rhino, grass, hot sun.
Shal Nuur is also lovely and spicy “Indian Summer” arome, I hear Joe Dassin singing “L'Ete Indien” when I smell it
For me the quintessential fragrance for chilly sunny golden-leaf autumn days is Miracle, the ginger is so warning.
Wish I could remember something from AP, somehow they never seem complete, always need layering.
Could I ask if the original Burberry is Burberry for Women or one that goes back before that? Burberry for Women has a yellow box with a strip of Tartan along the bottom – mind you, perhaps a few of them do now.
Great post! Perfume is actually one of the very few reasons I look forward to fall and winter.
One of my favourite comfort scents is L'artisan Safran Troublant (my first niche fragrance, actually), PG Aomassai (it's gorgeous once that licorice note dissapears), L'artisan Ambre Extreme (at times I find it similar to Alamut minus the powdery notes), POTL (love!).
Right now I am trying out the Parfums d'Histoire perfumes and many of them are based on amber which is great for me! Also I tried the new Kenzo Amour Le Parfum and I like it far better than the original version. For me it smells like a mixture of Amour Eau de Parfum, Safrant Troublant Extreme (if such a version actually existed I imagine that the spices would be accentuated) with some woods blended in. And it is really long lasting – I can smell it even the day after I wore it.
Klara
Sadly I don't even know most of the perfumes mentioned here. We never had a summer this year. I've been wearing Lolita Lempicka, L de LL and Angel quite regularly this year. At least something good about this weather!
I AM wearing LL Fleur de Corail right now. IT is a bizarre scent, sweet salty fruity and fades into a veeery soft musk. Nice, but am looking forward to finishing it and moving to Elixir de Merveilles – candied orange peel, chocolate (which I fail to notice) and the fascinating Eau de Merveilles in the background. In's wintery and juicy and has less of this multiple personality disoder of Fleur de Corail. Give it a try!
As well as Kama, what about Promesse de L'Aube? That is also very much in cashmere sweater vein – I am imagining a very pale lemon colour, not that I could wear that, but I love the scent!
Yup…that's the one. With the kind of oval shaped bottle and silver cap. I was actually looking for Burberry London and read the “london” thing on the bottom of the box and was immensely confused, as it does not say burberry for women- at least I don't remember seeing that. Imagine my surprise when I unwrapped it and there was no cute plaid bottle. It was a huge disappointment, but I resolved to wear it anyways and immediately fell in love. Happy ending! Haha….
Yes! Kama's a lovely addition, as is Armani's Sensi. Why just a cashmere sweater? Why not cashmere pyjama bottoms as well…
R, I have a friend who used to wear this. Now I'm longing to smell it again–with the benefit of thinking of her, too.
V, sounds marvelous!
This is the third time Safran Troublant has been mentioned here! I'm definitely wearing it tomorrow for a trial run in the cold. It sounds like it can't lose. And this is a good reminder to try Ambre Extreme, too.
Hmm, sounds nice. I have a sample of Parfum de Merveilles that would be nice, too, I think.
Lovely post Angela, I always look forward to your observations on scent.
I only became a perfumista in earnest this spring, so I'm anticipating my first fragrant autumn with much excitement; sampling lots and eager to discover perfumes which breathe life into the chilly, grey misty mornings and capture and the hazy, unexpected warmth of the mid-afternoon sun.
Here in the North of England, autumn is just beginning to unfurl and I have found myself reaching for sandalwood fragrances to warm and comfort. Today I am in Tam Dao, which I have been alternating lately with Samsara.
Safran Troublant is definitley on my 'to try' list and the posts on this thread have certainly sharpened my need to sniff this one out!!
Also, I sniffed a lovely clove candle the other day, which got me wondering about perfumes with a distinct clove note – something that reflects the sweet, spicey facets of clove – any recommendations?
Both of those scents hold up wonderfully in the cold. I don't know, though, if I could limit myself to just two!
I love your image of the Massai! Not very casmere-sweater like, but very evocative.
No joke. Getting dressed would be so much easier.
Bois Blond, too!
Oh, L'Heure Bleue! So nice. I'll have to put that one at the front of the perfume cabinet.
I really like Real Patchouly, too, and debated between that and Patchouli Leaves the last time I bought a bottle. In the end, I decided for the ambery finish (rather than slightly more woody) finish of the Bois 1920. But I'd love a bottle! And one of Bois 1920 Sutra Ylang, too.
Maybe we should swap houses halfway through the year. Hey, we could visit each other's perfume collections at the same time. That would be fun!
Promesse de l”aube is on my wishlist. I have a feeling I'll love it.
Gosh, you have lots to look forward to!
Often, clove is mixed with carnation in perfume, so you might try carnation scents and see what you think. One really clove-y perfume is Caron Poivre. I love it.
Yikes! That can definitely happen. Now, though, I really want to smell Dry Idea!
So decadent! Sounds great.
My ideal is to have one fragrance only, many iconic Femme Fatales in my childhood were famous for their fragrance. After all, if you have more, someone can't walk into a room you just left and say “Lily was here” (or Angela
)
Am very disappointed in fragrances recently as the promising ones are not available in Europe – Tom Ford, Ormonde Jayne, SSS
and all launches smell awfully chemical, biggest disappointment being Secret Obsession.
And you'd never have to do any laundry! For a while.
I understand the ideal of having just one scent and admire it, but I just plain can't do it. Unfortunately for my pocket book.
Too bad about not being able to get some perfume lines.
Carnation does sweeten and soften clove, and they seem to complement each other so well. Caron Bellodgia is one of many nice carnations.
Exactly!
Rachel, that is interesting, as I have never met anyone else in my circle say they like this particularly Burberry, or even have tried it. Nor does it come up often on blogs as far as I can tell. While it is not a HGS for me, it evokes lovely cold weather memories of being in former East Germany with snow all around last March. A strikingly attractive, silver haired SA in a perfume boutique in this little town in the middle of nowhere chatted to me about the German market and things she liked, pulled out all her interesting stock of minis from bottom drawers under the counter, offered me stuff to try – much of it unknown European brands – and then asked me to try the Burberry, saying that she thought it would suit me! And I did like it, and always recall the buzz of having this animated chat with someone as passionate about perfume as me, but with decades more sniffing experience, and a different cultural perspective.
I wear cashmere bed socks and have a cable knit cashmere water bottle cover. They are the business!
Now I'm inspired to buy some cashmere yarn and knit a hot water bottle cover for myself.
It has jasmine, ylang, ylang, vanilla and sandalwood as I recall. You feel wrapped in a pillowy cocoon when wearing it. An image of lemon meringue pie just popped into my head – that would be the dessert equivalent of our pale lemon cashmere knit. Quite feminine and girly, but maybe the sandalwood anchors it, as it never veers into cutesy.
Does L'Air du Temps have those notes these days?
Oh wow – another knitter! Mind you, it has become so expensive to knit your own anything these days if you like the natural yarns. I have a chunky sweater sitting waiting to be sewn up – I hate the sewing up part so much that garments can take up to another six months to be finished!
My Cashmere sweater picks (not in any order).
Coco Chanel b/c is is so spicy, warm, sexy and ambery…
SSS Rose Musc b/c is it so deliciously warm and the labdanum is the best ever and warms me up, like good cashmere.
AG Heure Exquise b/c the iris and mysore sandalwood just melt into the skin and “smell” like cashmere feels.
31 Rue Cambon b/c it is rich and sensuous and sophisticated like cashmere.
Prada b/c is is so warm and sexy like cashmere
Bal a Versailles b/c it is so sexy and like sitting next to a fire with a great cashmere wrap.
I love the sound of it!
I think it is a carnation scent, yes.
I know what you mean. There's a person in town where I live who sews up and blocks knitting projects for a fee. I bet she does well, too.
You are one classy chick! All of your choices sound really nice. I'm ready for some Bal a Versailles right now.
BaV has been a winter frag of mine for a long time. It just smells like warm, sexy, roaring fire….ok, add in some cashmere, and maybe a bear skin (or faux bear skin) rug…..
Can't argue with that!
The unscented version…especially when it's sniffed right out of the bottle, not on skin.
I think that on some really cold days, nothing warms up the house like a warm-scented candle! A friend of mine owns a Diptyque's gingembre candle and aw gosh, I wish I purchased it when it was still available. Now I can't find it anywhere! I am a sucker for warm gingerbread in those cold winter days. Another scent worth mentioning would be… the yellos les belles from Nina Ricci! It used to be my all time favorite when I was still a teenager. It is a spicy combination of warm candied fruit, with a very warm touch of cinnamon, and a hot yummi applepie! MMMM Deliscious, I am making myself so hungry right now!
I love scented candles, too. I used to have one that smelled of a vanilla-like beeswax, and I loved it.
Make this the fourth mention! ST is kind of cloying on me if I wear it in temperatures higher than the 70s, but it's perfect in cool fall weather like this. I was so excited to break it out this week!
Then it's definitely my scent du jour! Thanks.
My cashmere sweater scents are: Saffran Troublant, Imperial Opoponax, Asja, Amir, and Aqua Allegoria Exaltant. I equate spice with warmth!
It sounds like you do! I don't know what it is about spices that for me don't have the same fluffy warmth as other fragrances, even though I do enjoy them in the cold–just not for their warmth.