This week's Monday Mail is about Natalie, who was “a budding perfumista” in her teens (Hermès Calèche, Jean Patou Cocktail). As an adult, Natalie finds that she has drifted to “pretty-pretty, crowd-pleasing florals” (Christian Dior Diorissimo, L'Artisan La Chasse aux Papillons Extrême, Jo Malone Orange Blossom) that aren't a good match with her pesonality. She has started out exploring new fragrances but would like our help deciding what she should sample next. She doesn't mind splurging within reasonable limits (no JAR or Clive Christian), but she'd also be happy with a budget fragrance.
Here is what we know about Natalie:
She's a single mother in her late 30s.
She's happiest in either huge cities or “the back of beyond”.
She's describes herself as moody, daring, complicated, or less charitably, difficult. She's also “eccentric, creative, and introverted, and my professions have included everything from glassblowing to managing professional boxers”.
Her looks are “sweet, innocent”, and she's been told her demeanor is “ladylike”, but she dyes her hair red and has “a dangerously subversive streak and a caustic tongue”.
So, Natalie is looking for a fragrance that will be a better fit with her “complicated and somewhat dark nature”. Natalie likes…
church-y incense notes,
lavender, lily, lily of the valley, carnation, orange blossom, fig, anise, and tea,
violet, tuberose, citrus, spices, and woods.
She isn't sure about amber or vetiver. Natalie dislikes or can't wear…
middlebrow, department store stuff,
overly indolic fragrances,
tobacco notes.
Here is what Natalie has tried so far:
Incense: Annick Goutal Encens Flamboyant (unpleasantly musty), Comme des Garçons Avignon (loves it, but not feminine enough), Etro Shaal Nur (heavy and common), Heeley Cardinal ( liked it enough to buy a decant, but sometimes finds it too “sweaty”), L'Artisan Passage d’Enfer (too soapy), Tauer Incense Extreme (too masculine), Tauer Incense Rose (gorgeous for evening, too sultry for day).
Florals: Lorenzo Villoresi Donna (gorgeously carnation-y but might be too pretty-pretty), Caron Bellodgia (elegant but borderline cloying), Guerlain Après l’Ondée (pleasant but not what she's looking for), Serge Lutens Un Lys (nice but too one-note), Serge Lutens Fleurs D’Oranger (a warm, mothball-y closet with yellowing wallpaper), Miller Harris Geranium Bourbon (not quite right), Parfums de Nicolai Odalisque (overripe), Parfums de Nicolai Eclipse (cheap and cloying), Mona di Orio Nuit Noire (smells like her parents’ bathroom closet), Parfums 06130 Feuille de Reglisse (too Pleasures-y), By Kilian Beyond Love (ok but not spectacular), Robert Piguet Fracas (too full and overripe).
Miscellaneous: Caron Tabac Blonde (wanted to love it but too stinky), Diptyque Philosykos (not exactly what she's looking for, but bought a full bottle for bad days), Etro Anice (disappeared in about 5 minutes), Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau pour le Jeune Homme (nasty and medicinal), Parfumerie Generale Harmatan Noir (like the opening, but dries down to a boring floral), L'Artisan Tea for Two (headache-inducing).
Fragrances Natalie has on her “to try list” include Armani Privé Bois d'Encens, Serge Lutens Encens et Lavande, Bond no. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory, Donna Karan Black Cashmere.
What say you?
My recommendations: Natalie should definitely try the incense fragrances she's already got on her “to try list”, but if none of them work, she might buy a sample of Juozas Statkevicius Eau de Parfum (available from Beautyhabit or Luckyscent), which while still unisex, has less of a masculine edge than some of the others in this category. She might also play around with layering something like Comme des Garçons Avignon (or Heeley Cardinal, since she has a decant) with the “pretty-pretty” scents already in her collection.
Kenzo Flower Oriental is something of a long shot, but I think it might be the perfect bridge between “complicated and dark” and “pretty-pretty”. My local Nordstrom carries it.
Note: image is Postbox (cropped) by Mark Turner at flickr; some rights reserved.
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Possibly Rochas Femme (EDP)? It's got a bit of that 'bridge' built into it. She might also try Neil Morris's Spectral Violet which might suit her personality.
Rochas Femme EDP I've only found on Amazon – she might want to try a sample before she buys, though it is relatively inexpensive. I love Passage d'Enfer but for those days when it doesn't work, Dzongkha is dza bomb!
Natalie sounds like a fascinating woman with very decided tastes. I hope she has FUN with this exercise!!!.
I was thinking what good taste Natalie had until I read what she thought of SL Fleurs d'Oranger. LOL!
I second the Kenzo. Other than that, I'm stumped.
Aside: Are you going to post follow ups for this topic? I'd love to know what some of the previous subjects ended up getting and what their reactions are.
Natalie here… I'm really looking forward to all your suggestions; my sample orders are getting less scattershot, but I hate wasting even $3 on something I'll wear only once!
I haven't tried Rochas Femme, but I just read Angela's review here, and “disturbingly beautiful” sounds oh so enticing… I had a bottle of something by Rochas back in the '80s, but I can't remember the name — purple bottle, soft floral, pleasant but not very interesting. Spectral Violet sounds intriguing as well, and Dzongkha is already on my list. I do like the LAPs, but they don't all work on me.
And Bela, I'm so sorry about Fleurs d'Oranger! I really, really want to like the SLs, but so far the idea of them far surpasses the reality on my skin…
And Robin, thanks for those suggestions too… I have been eyeing the Juozas Statkevicius at Luckyscent, but I hadn't considered the Kenzo. I did perform my first experiment in layering just yesterday, however! You had recommended layering the Tauer Incense Extreme in your review, and I tried it with Bellodgia — it was terrific for about 1/2 an hour, but the Bellodgia ended up overwhelming the Tauer. I'm even considering dabbling in mixing up my own concoctions, because I think incense and carnation would be divine…
I mean to, and I do have feedback from a couple of the participants but it is hard to find the time…the MM articles are actually considerably more time-consuming to schedule & collect information for than I thought they'd be. It may end up being one of those things that just has to fall by the wayside, sorry!
Oh dear Natalie….
We seem to have some similar personality traits and tastes so…..
Try Jasmin et Cigarette. I know you are not to fond of tobacco notes, however, this perfume is not a smokey/ashtray kind of tobacco perfume. It's really different and quirky and a bit skanky. Go to MakeupAlley and read the reviews on it. The only place in the US that sells it, is Henri Bendel's in NYC but you can order a sample from The Perfumed Court.
Seconding R's recs of Silver Factory and Black Cashmere. And M's rec of Dzongkha.
I would also like to suggest Chaos by Donna Karan and Oliban by Keiko Mecheri.
Can't wait to read more recs.
Have fun sampling.
Dawn
One of the really hard things about layering is finding the right proportions, esp. when you're using spray bottles. Much easier sometimes to use sample vials so you can control the amount better…but also true that sometimes no matter what you do, one fragrance 'eats' the other.
I was reading and thinking — this girl has Black Cashmere written all over her–and then I saw it was on your list already, hooray! You might find it too heavy, given your reaction to Tabac Blond, but I encourage you to hold on to your sample and give it more than one try. That density can be very comforting.
For a slightly sweeter, less spicy (and cheaper!) incense, you might give the Crazy Libellule Encens Mystic a try. At $16 it's not much of a risk and you can always pass it along if you don't like it as its pretty popular.
It's not cheap, but try to score a sample of Serge Lutens Bois Violette — if you like the cedar base it will satisfy your violet craving with a bit of the dark edge that seems called for, given your self description.
Hi Natalie
Hmmm, this one is tough- my first two thoughts out of the hatch were Black Cashmere and AW Silver factory- which seems covered-
How about Sonoma Scent Studio? You can order samples online and they have some nice stuff with some of your preferred notes- Fireside, Wood Violet, Sienna Musk and Champagne de Bois are all lovely and worth a shot…
happy hunting!
Sienna Musk is brilliant.
Good rec.
thanks!
Rochas Femme is a great call, thanks, and so is Dzongkha — I should'a thought of that!
Hey, Encens Mystic is a great rec, and another good one to layer with.
Great recs! Should have said above, just in case, that Dzongkha is by L'Artisan.
Natalie sounds like a perfect candidate for Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle MUSC RAVAGEUR.
Also, I think Kenzo Flower Oriental is worth a try, too.
Black Cashmere, which is the thing that sems to have popped into several heads after reading the goal. It is gorgous.
Yohji Homme if you can find some – translucent but anise-y smoke, really compelling.
YSL Nu which seems quite similar to Black Cashmere in some ways but more …ascetic maybe.
Annyake Miyako – a fuller more ambery sort of scent than some of these, but really beautiful tribute to both incense and warmth.
Oh, and my favorite incense is Black Tourmaline. It has a smoke and wood and lime thing I adore, without the daddy-in-the-library-with-pipe-tobacco aspect that I got from the Armani Prive.
Perhaps Fumerie Turque if you want to try an SL? Or Feminite du Bois? Which is not so much an incense of course, but beautiful and might satisfy in some of the same ways as it’s interesting all the way through.
I'll offer a few suggestions, while I'm dithering here on the Internet…
Bulgari Black
Amouage Homage (a hell of a splurge, but the very best incense and rose you can get)
Amouage Jubilation 25 (or is it XXV?)
Tom Ford Black Orchid
Bois d'Encens (I see it's on her list)
Bandit
Comme des Garçons 2 Man
Narcisse Noir (if she can find an old bottle)
En Avion (ditto)
L'Heure Bleue (OK, I just think everyone should have this, though to be fair it includes a surprising number of her favored notes)
La Myrrhe (requires having a friend in Paris, sadly)
Bois de Violette (ditto)
Dzongkha
Mystère
Byzance
Bois de Violette is available at Bergdorf's in NYC — or at least it was last April.
Natalie,
Femme EDP (the Edt smells 'thin' to me) is one of those frags that I definitely recommend you sample first, even though it's not that expensive. It's got a touch of cumin in it and that can sweat up on some people. On me the cumin is just barely there – just enough to keep the scent interesting
Spectral V is only if you can handle the first 14 minutes – Diane Ackerman writes about the olfactory difficulties of violet – it's a toughi – but then it smooths out into a lovely fragrance.
In great haste, so my apologies if I'm repeating sthg N has worn or others have mentioned:
Lancôme Magie Noire (older version, if possible); Tauer L'Air du Désert Marocain; Mona di Orio Carnation (for the violet + woods); Ava Luxe No. 23, Shisho, + Madame X; Crown Maréchale; SMN Marescialla; Lorenzo Villoresi Incensi + Yerbamate; Eau de Cartier (for the violet leaf as well as the citrus) + Panthère Eau Légère (for the grapefruit with the floral notes)
Adding (not sure why these just came to me) Parfumerie Générale Bois Blond + Profumum Alba; also my beloved Yves Rocher Cocoon, even though it has none of N's favored notes!
Jasmin et Cigarette sounds very enticing, but I am leery of the tobacco. I can't quite put it into words, but tobacco has a “fullness” to me, a buttery quality, and not in a good way — like you've eaten too much butter from a very hormonal cow. Nevertheless, I thought I detected a hint of tobacco in Harmatan Noir, but it was so fleeting that it didn't bother me too much. “Quirky” is absolutely what I'm looking for, however, so J&T is on the list, as are Chaos and Oliban. Thank you!
I remember seeing a review of the Encens Mystic here and liking the sound of it — plus I love a cheap thrill! And I'll look for a sample of the Bois Violette; maybe I'll finally find a SL that works for me…
Glad to see I'm on the right track with Black Cashmere and Silver Factory! Sonoma Scent Studio has been totally off my radar; I know the name, but really haven't investigated further. Will do so now — thank you!
L'Artisan Tea for two! Comme des Garcons 2! Tea for two is a great tea scent with a deep drydown, rich but I think it is feminine. Come des Garcons 2 is a GREAT rich, rich scent but VERY feminine thanks to “modern” aldehydes that do not smell like grandma's stuff – oh no. CDG 2 is deep, rich, smells if incense, exotic places – it's a killer. Long lasting, interesting and deep. But all of this time it is always feminine and never too much. You just have to try it to understand! I love it.
You know, a few years ago I bought Musc Ravageur for my now-ex, and I would never in a million years have thought to try it on myself! Ah, the naïveté of perfume youth… I'll be sure to give it a shot when I get a chance — thank you for broadening my mind!
I think Piguet Baghari may be a good choice – starts off a little strong and aldehyde-y, but then mellows into a pretty nice soft thing.
I know you said you wanted to avoid standard department store stuff, but if we're looking at strong, complicated, interesting – how about a light dab of EL Knowing – definitely not your standard fare even for an oldie but goodie. I also think Magie Noir as suggested above.
And far be if for me to avoid a chance to further suggest Sonoma Scent Studio as above — I LOVE SSS — you will find an interesting selection if incensy frags there. Be warned however, if you don't know whether or not your are anosmic, you may not be able to smell some of the ones suggested above, like Opal, Sienna Musk, etc. (I, sadly, can't smell her wonderful musks…) Her Vintage Rose is lady like and yet a little complex with a nice rich plum and incense note.
And, one more for the road – my new favorite – Vol de Nuit by Guerlain – soft and yet a little difficult with the leathery dry down.
Mmm, anise-y smoke sounds divine… I've been eyeing Nu as well, so it's nice to see that hunch confirmed. Thanks for the other recs too, as well as the Bois d'Encens description, which makes me think I can live without that one (nice to be able to cross at least one thing off the endless list instead of adding to it!).
I'm stumped- I realize she doesn't care for department store scents, but how about SJP Lovely? It's got lavender, lily, carnation, paper white narcissus and woods? The spray oil is quite nice.
Can't believe no one has yet suggested Etro Messe de Minuit. It was the first scent I thought of when I read that Natalie likes incense and wants to express her “complicated and somewhat dark nature.”
I've been thinking about the Amouages and plan to get samples; some of the others I hadn't considered but will now… I think I smelled Bandit once at the Vermont Country Store, of all places (an odd but interesting source of perfume), but I remember nothing about it. And I know I smelled all the classic Guerlains as a teenager, but I definitely wasn't ready for them back then!
Thank you so much for the suggestions, although I'm a bit peeved at you today for coloring my impression of Villoresi's Donna: I dabbed some on this morning after reading your review a few days ago, and suddenly, instead of soft carnation, it screamed NAIL POLISH REMOVER! And I thought I was pretty confident in my opinions, sigh…
Word! – on Bulgari Black.
I'll add my cheer for Bois de Violette in the ring as well as Encens et Lavande. Both are unusual, eclectic, a little dark, and beautiful!
It is intoxicating. I love it. It is one of my favorites and from reading your likes and dislikes, our tastes seem similar. Give that Kenzo Oriental a try for the incense!
I was going to say Messe de Minuit, Black Cashmere, Taif by Ormonde Jayne, SSS Sienna Musk to cover off woods and incense, also Ava Luxe Nag Champa is scrummy.
Ava Luxe Water Lily is also nice with a bit of a kick to it, without being headache inducing. I would have said Apres L'Ondee but that didn't do it for Natalie. I would have said Tea for Two but sadly that gave her a headache! I may get some more inspiration later… : – )
Hmm, what about Guerlain Sous le Vent to cover off the lavender-citrus bases?! That is not mainstream all right.
very welcome! SSS makes some great stuff… Beware of the Fireside opening. It starts off very sharp and strong but mellows beautifully – I can imagine that some might scrub it off before it has a chance to work its magic!
Interesting suggestions, most of which were totally off my radar… I definitely want to try the other Tauers, although I'm almost scared to; I like the two I've tried so much that I don't want to break the spell! And funny that you should mention Magie Noire, which holds the honor of being the very first perfume that I ever sampled — I was a kid strolling through Saks in NYC with my mother, and was handed a sample vial. How I treasured that stuff! It seemed so impossibly exotic and grown-up, and I once wore it to my nice little Episcopalian grade school and horrified everyone. I can smell it in my mind, but it would be so interesting to revisit…
She might try some perfumes with iris. One that comes to mind is Dior Homme, which is marketed as a men's fragrance, but most seem to think it's too feminine to be a real masculine (whatever that means).
I second the above mention of Tauer's L'Air du desert marocain. And she might try L'Artisan Parfumeur's Dzing! which is similar to Bulgari Black but not so weird.
I know, I know, I SHOULD love Tea for Two, but unfortunately it just gave me a headache! If there were a perfume out there that really smelled like lapsang souchong, I'd be all over it, but I'm still looking for that mythical creature. One or two others have also mentioned the CDG 2, so that's definitely going on the list (your marvelous description sold me on it!)
Thank you for those recs… I've never considered the Baghari, and haven't sniffed Knowing in years (I'll try to stifle my department store aversion!). Thanks for seconding the SSS suggestions too; I haven't noticed that I'm anosmic (rather than not smelling notes, I seem to smell icky stuff that no one else does), but it would indeed be shame to shell out $$$ for a scent that turns out to be invisible! And you've given me yet another reason to revisit the Guerlains.
I'll admit, I've only ever smelled Lovely on a scent strip, which isn't really a fair test. My department store problem is just me being a snob and not wanting to smell like everyone else — yes, even if everyone else smells fantastic! Lovely does sound nice, however, and from what I remember, it has an incense note in it too, so maybe I should just get over my snootiness!
I've been leery of Messe de Minuit because so many people describe it as “musty,” and I didn't like the mustiness of AG's Encens Flamboyant. Then again, maybe what I'm calling mustiness is something altogether different?
OK, more votes for Black Cashmere and Sienna Musk! I haven't tried any of the Ava Luxes, but will investigate further. I liked the somewhat odd wintergreen-y violet aspect of Après l'Ondée, but it's a bit too… wimpy? I don't mean to insult it; it is beautiful, but I want a bit more oomph at the moment. Will look into Sous le Vent; I do love lavender but haven't found one that really speaks to me. LAP used to have a men's fragrance with a lot of lavender, but I smelled it years ago and promptly forgot the name — and it's probably been discontinued, sigh…
Apres L'Ondee I like to think of as “restrained grief” – so the frag could be called wimpy for repressing its emotions! Sous Le Vent is a parched Provencale landscape, with lots of scrubby, thorny bushes you need to step over carefully if you are barelegged. It is like Eau de Guerlain turned up a notch in the aromatic stakes, if you are familiar with the former. I am not mad about lavender as a rule, but I like how it works in this one.
If you like Comme des Garcons, you could also try their Series 1 Leaves: Lily one – that was very pretty, or the totally exquisite L'Artisan Eau de Jatamansi, which has citrus and tea and woods and incense and some other delicate ingredients. Or Givenchy Le De, with lily and sandalwood and incense.
If you can “smell the icky stuff” then you are surely to like one of the SSS fragrances. She does great work. And, even though you are not sure you like ambers, Laurie had re-developed her Ambre Noire that is very dark and intense, with rich woody notes. It is darker than I prefer (I like the lighter more vanilla ambers), but it has a wonderful woody incense accord and is not for the light of heart! Her Champagne de Bois is also wonderful, a la, Chanel 22 or Caron Parfum Sacre. (Also good tips for you if you want to go the incense direction.)
If we're going toward iris notes….*sigh* … I can't help but suggest Annick Goutal Heure Exquise….so lovely and warm.
Donna Karan Gold, which I think has a smidge of incense in it with the lily, Guerlain Anisia Bella, discontinued, but easy to get through discounters, Costes by Hotel Costes, Frederic Malle Noir Epices, and CB I Hate Perfumes Violet Empire and Wild Pansy. You might try some of the Le Labos: I like Patchouli and Neroli the best, but I wouldn't turn my nose up at Iris or Vetiver.
I am a bit timid about venturing across the aisle to the men's fragrances, but I'll look for Dior Homme. And one of these days I will try Dzing!, which it seems either really, really works or really, really doesn't work. Weird is good, however! The Tauer is now on my list as well; the Tauers I've tried have smelled very good on me, even if they aren't entirely “me” — somehow they're missing whatever it is that makes so many perfumes smell icky on my skin. I was told over on Perfume Posse that it's because he uses great ingredients and doesn't put in all the cheap fillers, which makes sense…
Regarding iris, I have an idea of what it smells like, but I'm not sure if my idea is accurate. Will look for Heure Exquise to verify!
I saw the Anisia Bella in TJ Maxx a few months ago and in some fit of sudden frugality didn't buy it. Sigh. I'll look into Costes and Noir Epices (I almost ordered a sample of the latter recently but crossed it off the list in another of those strange fits). I've never tried any of the CB I Hate Perfumes or Le Labos but would love to; thanks for steering me to some good ones to start with.
“Iris” sounds floral, but it isn't. The flowers have no smell, the fragrance is extracted from the roots instead. When it's strong (as in SL Iris Silver Mist) it smells rather like turnips, but it usually just lends a cool, gray note to most perfumes, which will usually have a sweet or warm component to contrast with it.
Some ideas I haven't seen mentioned: 10 Corso Como, Parfums de Nicolai Maharanih, Cuir de Lancome, Penhaligon's Lily & Spice, Parfums d'Empire Eau de Gloire, Liz Zorn/Soivohle's Domino Viole', Creed Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie. I'll also second Mona di Orio Carnation, SSS Fireside.
Magie Noire is great, absolutely lovely scent, and lasts on the skin.
Now about another Caron – Narcisse Noir
Natalie, you and I have similar taste in notes. I'd suggest trying Caron's Parfum Sacre. I don't know the notes, but I get some churchiness from it, and I think it might fit in with your note-preferences.
What about Ava Luxe No. 23? There's lavender in that, and some wood – definitely not a common scent either! PC has decants and she has a website on etsy.
On me, HE is mostly wonderful iris/orris note and then a very warm smooth long lasting mysore sandalwood – it's like being in a wonderful powdery sandalwood fog. It is actually a little quieter than most of the fragrances listed here for you to try, but it wouldn't hurt to sniff it out when you have the chance. Perfumes, the Guide mentions that it has a slight animalic quality, but I've never picked that up, but maybe you will since you can get the “icky smells”.
Yes! I second Parfum Sacre – smoooth, low, incense rose. Very sexy & sophisticated. And you won't smell yourself coming or going. It's a superbly blended fragrance. (You can also pick up this Caron gem very inexpensively from on-line vendors.)
Rick is right – don't expect flowery smells. I didn't know the iris note for a long time, until I finally discovered it. I'd been smelling it a long time before I realized what it was – mostly likely underestimating it as some sort of vague back-ground note. When I finally picked it out in fragrances, it was like falling in love dumbstruck. But it is different – not flowery. It can be cool and metallic or warm and buttery. Once you figure out what it is, you can smell it in many fragrances. Just go to the best frag counters you can get to and start sniffing out major iris/orris note frags, and you'll learn. Get a good idea of iris masterpieces by going to Perfumed Court and searching under frags by note….
I hope Natalie is able to try CDG2 but if she is a fan of tea notes, something just as deep but not as smokey – would be CDG Leaves, Tea. There is one thing – it is strange and so different, You have to see if it does ok for You. I'll still stick to CDG 2 for Natalie, from what I read about her it should be perfect.
Just jumping in to say that I had been reading through, waiting to see if anyone mentioned YSL Nu…the DK Black Cashmere does sound right on target, though…will continue to read, though adding my vote to both those scents…
Here's dry incense w/ hint o' hay or woods, not yet suggested: Les Nez “Let me Play the Lion.”
I'm inclined to agree with Magie Noire or Parfum Sacre, as others have suggested…the Caron is sweeter, of course, even with its spicey incense vibe. As it happens, I just did another Baghari trial yesterday, and I've got to say, something about it seems too floral nice for what were the original parameters. But that's just my perception, based on what it smelled like on my skin. Yesterday.
I also think Ava Luxe has the right vibe…
I agree with the recommendation that Natalie might try L’Air du Désert Marocain. And this hasn't been mentioned yet, but for a person with a “complicated and somewhat dark nature”, the first fragrance that comes to my mind is the amazing Ormonde Woman. Lutens Datura Noir is another that has a strong and unique personality.
Thank you for all of those suggestions… I haven't had any luck with the Parfums de Nicolai I've tried so far, but perhaps this one will be the charm. And I can actually try out the Penhaligon's for free in a museum shop here, yippee! Sometimes I wonder if I should move back to NYC — the rent might be double, but I'd certainly save money on sample orders…
The first thing that popped in my head was Bulgari Black which seems to be Tania's first pick, too. I like Dzing and Silver Factory but I think Black and Black Cashmere beat both those.
In the floral area I am enjoying Imperial Opopanax by Les Nereides and Secrete Datura by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier. They are floral but interesting and not pretty pretty. The opopanax also has incense-ish notes – opopanax is a myrrh (I've never actually written myrrh before – it's funny).
L'Air du Desert Marocain is another good pick, for sure – it sends me right to the desert.
Thanks, I think someone else mentioned Ava Luxe No. 23 as well. I've tried to stay away from Etsy lately — too easy to get sucked into 3 hours worth of idle browsing — but I'll definitely check her out.
It's freaking fabulous, Magie Noir.
(I miss the old packaging, though).
I'm just remembering that I had some orris root as a kid — I used to make pomander balls and the like, and I even dabbled in trying to make perfume (I recall one lilac-blossoms-and-lard disaster). If I remember correctly, it's sometimes used to approximate the scent of violets, right?
Thank you both for the Caron recommendations; I do like the ones I've tried (even Tabac Blonde, despite my failing miserably with it). Years ago I had a bottle of Royal Bain de Champagne, which I'm sure I bought for the campy name alone but which turned out to be not half bad.
I've heard the name but never considered Let Me Play the Lion (or maybe I thought it was a joke along the lines of “Heaven Sings to the Dandelion”!). Will do some research, and thanks so much for amplifying the descriptions of the others.
Haven't tried any of the Ormonde Jaynes, but I've read so many superlatives about them that I really should look into the line; thank you for the Ormonde Woman suggestion. I have tried Datura Noir, however, and while it smells OK on me, it struck me as too heavy and coconutty.
Not that I necessarily believe in majority rule, but it is nice to see a sort of consensus on Black Cashmere, Dzing, Silver Factory, L'Air du Desert Marocain, Ava Luxe No. 23, CDG 2, and some others. I wasn't crazy about SL Datura Noir and really disliked the one Maitre Parfumeur scent that I tried, so I'm a bit gun-shy of the Secrete Datura, but Imperial Opopanax definitely sounds intriguing (and I can't help but love the word “opopanax” — it sounds like something that lives in the grey-green, greasy Limpopo River).
Yep, Datura Noir was too heavy and odd for me, too, but I know some who love it. I love Ta'if from Ormonde Jayne, too. I think Vanessa mentioned that one. Best of luck!
Hee. When I first heard the name, even though I am an English teacher and should focus on the intended reference, I kept hearing the song “the lion sleeps tonight” in my head (wim-oh-weh oh wim-oh-weh)…it does have a progressive drydown, btw, which is part of the fun.
Ooh, look at the Magie Noir fans come out! Hooray!
Hey, Byzance…doesn't get much mention or love…interesting idea.
I'll suggest some scents from the “men's side,” as I think that any one of this lot would smell AMAZING on a woman…
Third Man by Caron – a hint of lavender, lots of spices, light and truly exquisite
Yatagn by Caron – this is one of my absolute favourites, and if you could pull it off I guarantee no other woman will smell the same! (Best of all, the Caron's can be had inexpensively on-line)
Des sens et Bois by The Different Company – I like this one better than the Armani Privee. It's dear, but not as expensive as the Armani either. Transparent woods and a hint of incense
Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne – Similar to TDC scent above, this is just heavenly.
M7 Fresh by YSL – Not unlike Ormonde Man, with an added layer of citrus in the opening.
Jaisalmer by CdG – After Avignon, this is my favourite of the Incense Series. Its added spices make it slightly more mainstream in the opening, but they also add a warmth that the others in the series lack.
Zino Davidoff – This is one sexy scent: dirty and ethereal at the same time. Dirty English is a pale copy of this, so if you like the Juicy Coutre version then give this a try! Guerlain's Heritage is a copy of Zino, so if you can't find the Davidoff, that's worth a test too.
As I said, I think a woman could carry off any one of these – in fact, I would find them very sexy indeed on a woman. Best of all, several can be purchased quite reasonably on-line.
When I saw “lavender”, “tea” and “anise” listed amongst her favorite notes, I thought “ah, she'd probably be a Serge Lutens gal”. If she cares for incense-type scents but also admires grande, classic florals, she might consider the following:
1. “Five O'Clock Gingembre” Serge Lutens (spicy-sweet tea)
2. “Gris Clair” Serge Lutens (initial masculine lavender note later smooths into a sweet, crisp fume)
3. “Hot Couture” Givenchy (Spicy cumin-esque, wood)
4. “Isvaraya” Indult (starts heavy and spicy-sweet; lightens into a woody plum)
5. “Voleur de Roses” L'Artisan Parfumeur (includes a subtle incense theme but with a smooth, plum note that also hints at “tea”)
6. Wildcard: “Violetta di Parma” Bosari (creamy, sweet but not ripe–earthy, elusive. It's a violet and Iris blend that I'd imagine a fan of “Tubrose” might also appreciate.)
C'mon, Natalie, cross the bridge, come to the wild side: People of the Labyrinths' Luctor et Emergo.
Hmmm. If you want a mix of incense and carnation try what I was doing last winter and mix Donna Karan Black Cashmere with Lush 'Potion' solid fragrance which is heavily carnation based. It's wonderful on cold wintery days – warm, spicy and enveloping
How funny. I was also going to jump in with 'Nu' – have just ordered myself a cheap bottle and can't wait to compare it to Black Cashmere!
And yet again great minds think alike! CdeG2 is an old favourite of mine – I need to invest in another bottle. If this appeals, maybe consider splashing out on some Ormonde Janye? You can order the tester set of all the fragrances and see which ones appeal. But going by our similar tastes I think Ormonde Woman and Orris Noir would both be right up your alley. The first is a great, unusual day scent loaded with Black Hemlock, the 2nd has echos of CdeG2 for me and is iris based – very sultry. Love it!
Glad to see a few folk pushing the beauty of iris – it is an edgy floral note and might be just the thing. So that could lead to Chanel La Pausa, 31 rue Cambon (sigh!!) or even Iris Taizo from Parfumerie Generale. And of course AG Heure Exquise, as already mentioned. I wanted to recommend SL 5 o'clock au gingembre too but saw you were a bit unsure about amber. That could be a test case to check out how you feel!
Hi, have you tried Kenzo Jungle Elephant? I love this one. Also, I have said many times before but Egoiste by Chanel works wonderfully on women.
Me too! And I miss the body creme, a SA once told me they put 1/4 oz of pure perfume in the creme.
We have very similar tastes, so this thread has been helpful to me. LOVE that incense! Thanks for the Sonoma Scent Studio suggestion, I'd never heard of them. Currently I am LOVING Andy Warhol Silver Factory so I'll give that another vote. Besides, the bottle is so awesome…
If she finds Avignon slightly masculine, she probably won't be all over Bois d'Encens. I thought of another CdG Incense series that is wonderfully feminine that just might do the trick (it's the release I deemed FBW and Im adoring it!): Ouarzazate. Not expensive, very easy to wear, beautifully balanced, meditative and very womanly.
Also, I would imagine that Feminite de Bois is one that's definitely worthing sniffing!
Good luck and happy hunting.
I've discovered that I do love those progressive drydowns, even when the scent itself doesn't bowl me over — I wasn't in love with Geranium Bourbon, but it was fun for precisely that “ooh, I wonder what's going to come next?” aspect.
Thank you so much for all of those suggestions; it's been so much work to school myself on the women's side of the equation that I really haven't paid much attention to the possibilities on the other end. I have a feeling Caron is going to be getting some business from me!
I thought I'd be a SL gal too, but I'm still hunting for one that works on me… I will give those two a shot. I know I've smelled Voleur de Roses, but I can't remember it (yes, I have since learned to take notes), and Violetta di Parma has been on my to-try list, but somehow I forgot to mention it — thanks for reminding me!
I asked for a sample of it with an Aedes order, but they were out of it! I might just have to break down and pay the 3 bucks…
Oops, above comment is in reference to the POTL suggestion.
And Vanessa, thank you for the additional iris suggestions. I've been meaning to explore the Chanels again; I used to wear No. 5 as a teenager (I thought I was sooo sophistiqué), but I haven't tried any of the new (which to me means post-1990!) ones.
Haven't tried any of the Kenzos, and I haven't smelled Egoiste since it first came out, but I'll definitely revisit it. Thank you for the recs!
Thank you Robin, and thank you everyone… This has been enlightening, inspiring, and great fun to boot, although I feel like I have a heap of olfactory homework ahead of me. Thanks again!
Violet Empire is pretty great …
Dior Homme is FABULOUS. I love that it's fruity in a good way and stays close to the skin.
That sounds like a marvelous “recipe” — thank you. I do like some Lush products, but their stores are sensory overload, so maybe I'll look for this one online…
I was scared of the MPG scents too although I seem to have quite a few samples – I had gotten Secrete Datura years ago and had no idea it was MPG until I needed to replace it recently – I had a purse spray that the labeling had worn off of.
I wore the Opopanax to work and everybody went bananas over it – it is a great word and fun to say.
YSL Nu is a great incense fragrance, available at discounters, and layers well if ever you'd like to combine it with something citrusy.
Hope you'll find some winners, Natalie! Have fun
Just revisited MPG Jardin de Neroli, and I think you'd love it! Citrus, orange blossom, orange leaves, a touch of spice, light woods, gloriously crisp and fresh yet sophisticated!!!! Hope you have a chance to give it a whirl.
My on-line bargain bottle arrived this morning – it's a really lovely scent. On me, it's very smooth and creamy and the bergamot gives it an extra layer of sparkle on top. Really looking forward to seeing how it develops. Highly recommended.
I think that Antonia's Flowers Floret would fit because it has the lily of the valley but then something warm in the base notes. Someone told me that it smelt like the frangipani that he knew from South Africa.