Tom Ford's latest fragrance is White Patchouli, which seeks to reinvent the patchouli of the 1960s:
With its sensuous core of patchouli, Tom Ford White Patchouli perfectly captures the myth of a generation. Surrounded by sleek wood notes, tempered by elegant white flowers, this modern fragrance with retro-classic influences is a sophisticated interpretation of bohemian chic.
Got that? If you put the emphasis on the chic part and downplay the bohemian part, you've pretty much got the picture.
White Patchouli starts a little loud, but it isn't quite so in-your-face (or nearly as sweet) as Black Orchid, and it quiets pretty quickly, in fact, it verges on subdued after an hour or so. Subdued, from Tom Ford? What is the world coming to? I've been very surprised at how many people say they don't smell much patchouli; to my nose, it is front and center from the very beginning right through to the end, but it's that quote-patchouli-unquote stuff that's been cleaned up for modern consumption* (additional notes include peony, bergamot, coriander, jasmine, rose, ambrette seed, blond woods, incense).
Other than the patchouli, what we've got is a softly spiced blended floral. The rose is highlighted at first; later, it smells like generic “white flowers”. Later still, we've got some musky woods — and the word sleek is used aptly here: it's a very smooth perfume — and a muted incense note. It's lightly earthy and middling dark, but there's no skank to speak of.
Black Orchid went for romance and glamour, White Patchouli is minimalist chic. You could wear Black Orchid with a ball gown and it wouldn't feel out of place; I'd dress White Patchouli in New York black: trousers, a black turtleneck and boots, big sunglasses, sleek hair, one big piece of jewelry. It's beautifully done, and I find it perfectly accessible, considerably more so than Black Orchid (or even Black Orchid Voile de Fleur). I imagine that some women might find the base notes a bit more masculine than they'd like (there isn't that hefty dollop of vanilla sugar that makes the medicine go down in most of this year's mainstream “woods for women” scents), and by the same token, I should think it would be easily adopted by men.
My first reaction was that for my taste, White Patchouli was perhaps a wee tad too sleek and sophisticated. On later reflection, I've decided that's all to do with my expectations: if some other brand had made White Patchouli, I'd think it was marvelous. After all, tame as it is, it's still considerably more daring than most of what we've seen on mainstream perfume counters this year. But from Tom Ford, well, I don't mind the subdued, really, but subdued + clean? If you can't get a little skank from Tom Ford, where can you get it? But that's quibbling. I would like to hear how it compares to Purple Patchouli, if anyone has smelled both. Like Kevin, I threw my hands up at the 12 Tom Ford Private Blend fragrances, and I still haven't smelled a single one of them on skin. Tsk tsk.
Tom Ford White Patchouli is available in 30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum and in matching body products.
* Per Tom Ford, “We used patchouli orpur, which takes out some of the darker, smoky notes of patchouli”. (Women's Wear Daily, 6/20/2008). As near as I can tell, the word “orpur” is of fairly recent coinage. It seems to refer to ingredients that are of natural origin, but that have been molecularly modified, and according to W Magazine, the word is derived from “origin” + “purity”. The designation was also applied to some of the ingredients in Sean John's Unforgivable For Men fragrance (the ad copy in that case defined orpur notes as the “most premium and luxurious” ingredients, which is worth the price of admission right there).
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This seems like an opportune time to throw this out: I've been trying to figure out a great patchouli to buy for my mom, who is a total patch lover (she's bought plenty of cheap stuff from patchouligarden.com). I'm thinking this one sounds too sweet/floral for her — I'm pretty sure white flowers wouldn't work — but I need to do some sampling to find a good gift. I'd like to surprise her, but maybe the best bet would be giving her 5-6 samples and asking her to pick which she likes best. Also, she really liked my Voleur de Roses when I saw her last xmas, so I'm considering that. Not looking for anything TOO spendy (i.e., no CdG Luxe), and hopefully something in 50ml or less. Any recs, anyone, for your favorite patch that would suit a spry 61 year old?
LOL at “…..If you can't get a little skank from Tom Ford, where can you get it?” But Tom Ford himself always look very sleek and sophisticated. Maybe this perfume is to describe himself??
Do you think men can get away with this one, Robin?
For MEN? I really wanted to be able to adopt Black Orchid as a men's scent, and found it was just too…well, too earthy and strange for my tastes. It gave me a bit of a headache. This one I recently tried, hoping the patchouli would skew masculine, but it was all about rose and white florals on me. I'm a man who likes florals (give me Tubereuse Criminelle!) but I don't think I can pull off White Patchouli.
Thank you for the first in-depth review of this one! And DO TRY NOIR de NOIR from the Private Blend line…it is an incredible fragrance, the best of the line, in my opinion.
R: you'll be able to compare by Friday I think…I sent you some Purple Patchouli. It is a powerhouse and strange compared to White Patchouli.
I would have said yes, a man could easily wear it, but see the comment below!
Kevin is sending me Private Blend samples, I'll try them all. When they came out (very near the time of the 6 Chanels, IIRC) it just seemed like to much.
Very interesting that you find WP too feminine — interested to hear more opinions, I really thought it would be easily “borrowed”.
Ah, thought you were out of that one. Great! And do assume it is stranger than WP, I mean, it ought to be given the price/exclusivity factor.
Voleur de Roses is a great idea, and Diptyque Opone if you can find it (might be discontinued). Montale Patchouli Leaves. Maybe just a little sample of the CdG? I'm not a patch freak by any means but understand the patch freaks adore it. And per Kevin, I guess you've got to include TF Purple Patchouli.
Will see what else I can think of & will comment again, hopefully others will chime in.
Hey! Great review! You got me interested. Like C'est Nichist, I'm a man with (some) white floral days (I'd say “give me carnal flower” – cuz I can't afford it
. I'll check it out before the end of the week and let you know what I think – perhaps my perception of it might differ.. cheers! b.
After a very fortunate encounter with an excellent SA from Nordstrom Portland last week, I had the chance to smell her own bottle of White Patchouli that they don't have out yet. Now, I smelled it on her wrist and a piece of paper because I was/am afraid of patchouli in general. This frag may change my mind. It was really cool, really sexy. At first whiff, it smelled very briefly like a waaayy more polished and complex version of Stella – like a similar aroma to Stella (the peony, rose and rich amber) was just one part of a VERY complex opening. Seriously. At that point my brain kind of shut down and was like “I need to think about this more”. It definitely deserves testing on the skin, and is nothing like Black Orchid, etc. — no trapped in the hot house kind of thing (and I like Black Orchid). I don't know that I'd buy a bottle of it for myself (yet), but it was pretty neat. There was a lot going on, and it seemed pretty darn cool.
I really like Il Profumo Patchouli Noir. It isn't cheap but it's not over-the-top spendy ($135/100 ml) and a sample actually goes a long way. When I use a tiny bit I can smell more of the cedar and vanilla but a bigger dose is patchouli all the way and a really nice one. I also have a sample of Parfumerie Generale Intrigant Patchouli, which I am still exploring – I am obviously confused about it because here are my notes: “smells different every minute, bad, good, bad, good, fairly sweet, smells a little cheap, okay on the drydown”.
Patchouli oil has always been a good scent on me – I'll be interested in both the white and purple versions of these.
Do let me know, perhaps I'm entirely off base!
I don't know that I'd buy a bottle of it either. I bought the EL Sensuous because they had the 30 ml for under $50, and I'd certainly buy this one at that price — haven't checked the actual price, but have a feeling it will not be anywhere near that cheap. The bottle is gorgeous though, way, way nicer than Sensuous.
Cannabis Rose by Fresh. They have a gift set for approx. $65 that has a small EDT, body cream, and body wash. It's a great bargain.
Also, Conjure Oils (conjureoils.com) sells a perfume oil called Indian Patchouli that is so smooth. Mixed with sandalwood and mellow spices. And I believe it's only $25. It's gorgeous!
Yes, the bottle is beautiful. I think this is a serious large decant candidate. It would be nice if these niche frags came in smaller “bite sized” bottles. I try really hard not to think about the bottle, because sometimes it just interferes with a better decision. Thanks to those decanters out there, I have a suite of beautiful perfumes that otherwise I could never afford, en masse, or use up in my lifetime. Once you step out of the house, it's just you and the frag. Besides, all mine are hidden away in a nice cool, dark drawer.
At least it will be in 30 ml, although probably not at either NM or Nordstrom. And agree on the bottle — mine are all in a dark cabinet, so what's the difference? Still would rather see a cool bottle than a dull bottle though, so long as I'm paying for it.
Haha. Not sure how I feel giving my mom something called “Cannabis”, but hey, she's not THAT uptight….
I'm so glad you did a review of this! I tried it a couple of weeks ago, was impressed and now cannot get it out of my mind. Definitely large decant-worthy. Or maybe the 30ml. You said it probably won't be available at Nieman's or Nordstrom. Barney's do you think? I owe an SA there.
for me nothing beats jalaine's patchouli. it doesnt smell like a head shop.
as for copy, and apur, lauder is infamous for its 'purple prose' and its flamboyant naming of non existant notes and accords.
sorry if I offend any TF fans (except portofino neroli which is nice), but he's trying to do “iThe 60 second instant Lutens”. I am NOT a fan as you can tell. But, many love his fragrances. Or is it his pecs?
I never see 30 ml bottles anywhere but Sephora, at least so far, although not saying nobody else will have them — who knows? I did just check the price on the Tom Ford website, and the 30 ml is $60, which is really not too bad at all.
LOL — I've never seen his pecs, personally.
But for purple prose, do go over to Perfume Posse & read today's post — it's ad copy from Guerlain, and seriously, it will be hard to top — EVER.
Link: http://snurl.com/3kc93
Indeed. A lot of our cost goes into all the concept marketing. And a beautiful bottle is really special. Props to TF for a good design. They are unique, beautiful bottles. Someday I'd like to see a special ed crystal bottle in the same style.
Hey man, who knows? Maybe your mom would find it pretty funny! My mom did — and btw my mom loooooves patchouli, like the really hippie kind, but she's sort of a hippie. Cannabis Rose is a really modern patchouli scent that still sticks to its earthy roots. And it doesn't smell like pot smoke. Lol.
Ah, well, the rec still stands.
GRAND review, R! I can really “smell” White Patchouli from your description, and you know what- I'm liking what I'm smelling. Haven't tried anything from the Tom Ford lineup for much the same reason as you. Guess I should declare the moratorium over now…
Robin – as always, today's post was spookily, because I was just going to write up a review of White Patchouli (on Basenotes) and then I log onto NST and (zing!) here's your review. This is not the first time this has happened. Sometimes, you and I are on the exact same sampling wavelength.
I too found WP surprisingly subtle from Mr. Ford. I also get the patchouli almost immediately from the beginning, but because it's mixed with the rose (like the aforementioned Voleur de Roses and Cannabis Rose), the rose tends to overshadow the patch with a little tangy kick to my nose right away. Then it's a more deeper, softer slide down to the soft patchouli and incense you mentioned (almost like incense burning in another room).
Purple Patchouli, on the other hand, smells NOTHING like patchouli. It does smell like many other things (sweet flowers, smoke, a bit of orris, gummi bears, etc!) and it is NOT subtle, except it has lower than average longevity on me.
It works fine for me, even though: I am a man and I live in hot Miami summer weather. However, this will smell way better when it is cooler here.
One more thing: The first time I wore it, my boss gave me a compliment (which never happens) on my 'perfume', as he called it. I didn't have the balls to tell him it was a womans fragrance so when he asked what it was, I told him it was 'the new Tom Ford'.
Hmm, White Patchouli was a screeching floral on me, with no patchouli in sight. I much prefer Il Profumo Patchouli Noir (for the days when I want straight patch) and Jalaine Patchouli or SL Borneo 1834 (for the days when I want something sweeter and more gourmand).
This sounds interesting and I like the bottle. I just can't hide my perfumes away in the dark, though I know I should! The object d'art aspect of them is half of it for me. So opaque bottles are a good solution, and I love them. I like the idea of patchouli and it can be great on some people, but I don't think I'm one of them. Besides, my husband is a buzz-killer about anything that smells “hippie.” But he does like Paloma and that has a major patchouli drydown…
Le Labo Patchouli, L'Artisan Patchouli Patch, Il Profumo Patchouli Noir, and CH: I Hate Perfume Patchouli Empire are all worth sniffs. Le Labo is the weird one, L”Artisan the “clean” one and the other two more trad, but still interesting, interpretations. Eau de Rochas and Lush Karma are some good “bargain” options, too.
Okay, I just spent a half hour wandering around on that website – what intriguing stuff they have! I'll be back there next payday….
They did a crystal one for Black Orchid, didn't they? I think they did.
D, I'd tried all the other mainstream Tom Fords, just not the “Private Blend”. Kevin really liked the PBs so will give them a shot — but have to say I truly enjoyed ignoring them. I'm perverse that way
Hey, that's funny! What are we sampling tomorrow??
And wait, which of the 2 TF patchouli scents did your boss compliment???
Well, you're not alone…there are lots of similar comments at MUA.
This one is opaque, so no need to put it in the dark in any case, right?
Seriously don't think anyone will find this one hippie, but who knows.
I just don't know what it is but almost all of the scents I've tried from Tom Ford don't work for me. To my personal taste they are overpriced too. I mean, I'm not trying to be a cheapie here, I am easily able to spend a $100, $200, whatever it takes, when I love the scent. Tom Ford just doesn't do it for me, I'd rather stick to L'Artisan or Bond no. 9. Tom Fords fragrances are nice scents, and I'm sure people love them, I can see why… I dunno, I just couldn't breathe when wearing black orchid, but my friend was in heaven when she smelled it. I like richer, deeper scents but just about anything I smelled from Tom Ford was so appealing on a paper and made me sick when worn on my skin… I'm sick in the head I guess because everyone else loves it.
Big TF fan here as you might know, but this one just doesn't do it for me. I get mostly floral and no patch at all. I find it quite tame in comparison to the rest of the line.
Thanks for this review, R!! It's exactly what I imagined WP to be like, I have a sample on the way and I am pretty sure I'll like it, TF has never failed me so far
) And you HAVE TO try the PB's, cannot wait to hear what you think of them. I hope you had a great holiday!!
Oooh, for a minute I thought this was one of the exclusives. I do like that white bottle. A lot.
I sniffed out the exclusives, but really, was not that compelled by any of them, given the price. Although they seemed a lot better than the Armani Prive bunch, which strike me as cynical.
I've recently got into patchouli after having had an aversion to it since my student days…I think it was Chinatown and Chanel's Coromandel that converted me. So I am very attracted by the sound of this -can't wait to try it.
Hey, it's useful to have a brand or brands you know won't work for you…cuts down on the need to sample, right?
More $$$ saved
My vacation was perfect, thanks!
Hope you'll like the WP, but doesn't look like it's gathering any huge number of fans here today, LOL…maybe it isn't Tom Ford-ish enough? I'm curious to try the PBs, and probably just as well that I waited until the “hype” was over.
I have to agree abut the Black Orchid. I think it is a wonderful powerhouse kind of scent, but it made me sick to actually wear it-had to swap it away!
This sounds like a good office-y scent, will be worth a sniff if I come across it, but I probably won't seek it out…
Well, you pretty much describe what I wear in colder weather so guess I will need WP to match that this year
Hey there Robin,
Wow, I had such a different experience/reaction to White Patch. I didn't smell any florals and it was terribly astringent on me for a long time. Once it dried down it was a very very very (did I say very?!) light patchouli. I like patchouli and would have prefered a bit more of it in White Patch. I've often said I'm not a fan of Tom Ford but I had high hopes for White Patch – but it was a big disappointment for me…
Thanks for the review!
BO is not a shy scent…I can see it making someone feel ill.
I like the Armani Prives, but the pricing is very cynical — they aren't masterpieces.
This is way cleaner patch, I think, than either Chinatown or Coromandel.
Wonder if you'll like it, M — assume from your comment that you haven't tried it.
It's very interesting the range of reactions here, from screechy white floral, to all patch, to your reaction which sounds like neither floral nor (much) patch.
I will go look for this tomorrow or very soon. I love Tom Ford, Black Orchid makes me crazy, I love the fragrance, and ohhh, the Purple Patchouli is really amazing. Ugh, I am really upset I did not buy a bottle this past Spring. I will compare how the White one is compared to the Purple soon
Good, look forward to your comment!
The drydown is definitely patchouli but the journey there is kind of long and confusing. A lot of stuff going on but nothing really standing out as interesting. Too bad because the bottle is so very cute.
I got it today, and my first impression wasn't love at first sniff. But I was in the midst of trying some others, and wasn't able to give it my full attention. Now I have resprayed it, and am liking it much, much more. And I love the bottle.
It wasn't love at first sniff for me either — not sure it's love even now. Just think it's really well done.
I realized yesterday that the top notes remind me of (subtle) burned rubber. Once that dries back, it's much better.
I love so many scents with burnt rubber, LOL…didn't notice them here, will have to “look”!
I think the Black Orchid is still better than White Patchouli, but it might be fun for me to wear some night when I'm feeling adventurous. I do like it more than I did at first, but it's not purchase-worthy for me. I have a bottle given to me as gratis, and I think it'll turn out to be one of those bottles I reach for when I'm home and bored.
Hey, it's a darned good looking bottle, if nothing else. And perhaps it will grow on you more, who knows? It was free, anyway
As a die hard Black Orchid lover, I can't wait to try this…not that I expect them to be similar (how boring would that be?), but I so admire Ford for having the chutzpah to launch bold fragrances into the mainstream American market. Plus, those two bottles would look splendid next to one another!
They really would look great as a pair!
Actually I am wearing it today
It is indeed a very nice fragrance about patchouli. If to compare with Purple Patchouli, this one is very easy, comforting, elegant, very much wearable when Purple Patchouli knock me down with it's sharpness and spiciness. I didnt like Purple Patchouli much. It is not for me. White Patchouli on first notes is very strong patchouli, in the heart notes I started to feel presence of white flowers which later faded away and gave a way to wood and a tiny tiny touch of incense. For unknown reasons the perfume has a great association with white chocolate on base notes! My mouth is watery when I smell it. I want a good quality white chocolate after smelling it! 
It is indeed very sophisticated fragrance and I believe it is much easier to wear than Black Orchid or most of Tom Ford The Private Collection perfumes. I think this one is very well balanced and an idea of patchouli is presented in a really beautiful and original way. Very elegant.
So glad you liked it, and sounds like it struck both of us about the same way
I do make assosciations about the perfumes in my head. Etro Patchouly I call a humid & warm patchouli. L'Artisan Patchouli Patch I call the celler and muld patchouli. Aromatics Elixir by Clinique I call the patchouli layered with honey & chamomile. Chanel Coromandel patchouli I loved but I feel the patchouli in this perfume as a base to develop a black & bitter chocolate, incense, smoke.
And White Patchouli I will remember as the white chocolate patchouli. Very elegant. Cant help myself but to want to try it few times more. As well as to compare it with Black Orchid Voile de Fleur. The comparation not about the notes cause they are different but about the balance of notes.I feel both are the best balanced fragrances of Tom Ford.
I got a sample of this today. It was actually kind of funny: the SA that took 20 minutes (!) explaining the Harajuku Lovers to my friend's daughter and me now works at Nordstrom recognized me and let me get as many samples as I wanted (I'm not the type to take advantage though and ask for 12).
Anyway, I'm not sure what I expected but this isn't it. To be sure, it smells quite nice—floral rubber (trademarked by me, thank you very much!) would be what I'd expect Turin and Sanchez's two-word categorizer to be— and I'd welcome a bottle, but aren't even the 50ml's of the main-stream Tom Ford's like, $95?
Actually, when I sniff this, I get an uber white, super modern apartment; White Patchouli is it's scent. If there's any patchouli in here, is hiding in the closet, scared to come out lest it dirty the carpet. With all the neutered patchouli everywhere, I'm surprised that there are so many new patchouli scents running around! (I couldn't resist. xD)
I really liked the bottle until I looked at the picture on this page. I laughed aloud: I don't know if this thought will transfer, but it looks like a white bobby's uniform, what with the tall, domed hat that straps under the chin and broad shoulders. All he needs is a night-stick! How I'd love to get my hands on a bottle just to draw a little mouth on it!
If you got through this, you deserve a medal.
HA — great joke on the neutered patchouli! And it's entirely true. Everyone needs to just rethink what patchouli smells like now.
Your mother might like the Tunisian Patchouli oil by Kuumba Made. If she loves patchouli, she may like this. It is not sharp like the stuff from the 60s. It has a very soft dry down but there is no doubt it is patchchouli. It is reasonably priced. I first purchased a dram sample from Whole Foods and have ordered more from their web site, http://www.kuumbamade.com It comes in many sizes (ounces). Let her sample it first and if she likes it, buy an expensive purfume bottle and pour the oil in it. Because it is an oil only, it will blend nicely with her own skin to create her own version of patchouli. Another perfume oil I like is Patchouli by Jalaine. You can order samples at http://www.LuckyScent.com. For me, however, I love the fragrance but I can't smell patchouli and it is pricy. The hand cut crystal bottle is beautiful.
I'll buy anything that Erykah Badu models for. Tom Ford obviously has great taste! Gotta try this stuff!
It's a great ad — hope you'll like the scent as well.
I did not think this smelled like patchouli, on me it also smelled like a screeching, instant headache giving floral brew. Is it just me or do a lot of the Tom Ford fragrance end up smelling the same at drydown. I tried the Purple Patchouli, Noir de Noir & some others and all i wanted to do is scrub them off as fast as i could.
I do think they're all in a similar style. Many of the Private Blends smelled to me like they were possibly mods for Black Orchid and/or White Patchouli.
I. Love. This.
Tried it on my skin today after a friend mentioned it and it turned out to be one of those fragrances that smell just absolutely wonderful after you've given it some time to develop. Can't say I was bowled over by the initial impression, but after about half an hour – oh my. Smooth and sensuous is right, almost creamy/milky, a facet the rep attributed to the peony.
We took some away on a spray card, which my friend placed in her bag. Hours later, while we were settling in for a movie, she opened her bag and the most glorious smell floated out – absolutely beautiful!
Thanks for ID-ing the model in the ad!
Agree the initial spritz, esp. on paper, is not nearly so good as the drydown. Personally I don't think of peony as either creamy or sensuous, but what do I know, LOL…at any rate, this is nicely done and I do love that bottle.
This was a gorgeous scent. Not quite what I'm looking for at the moment, so I was more attracted to the Private Blends. Robin – will you be posting any reviews those soon? I'd be fascinated to read your views on them. I bought the Noir de Noir the other day, and was very disappointed because when I tried it the first time, it was from one of those whacking great expensive bottles, the purer essence. It was amazingly sensual and potent and developed beautifully on my skin. I refused to fork out such a large sum of money, so settled for the smaller spray bottle instead. It was not nearly as beautiful, and wore off after a few hours. What's that about?!?! Very cheeky I think, for such an expensive thing. Anyway…….sob story stops now.
As I said – your opinion would be much appreciated, as i did like some of the others, but will think twice before purchasing………
Kevin reviewed Purple Patchouli. It's hard to say if we'll do more — our “to review” list is kind of out of control at the moment, and so far, I've (luckily, given my wallet) not fallen in love with any of them. I'd love to try the new Champaca though.
I find TFWP very ease to wear it's very smooth to me and I can smell the patchouli all the way to the dry down. I also like Fresh Cannibis Rose it's also very nice but then I am a patchouli lover
I love Conjure Oils the site is just amazing. I am wondering does the Indian Patchouli have good sillage?
Yes, I just discovered the Private Blends on a rare trip into town ( very late, I know) & really love several of them ( Oud, Amber, Noir Noir & Purple Patch).
I am a Patch freak & my current alltime fave is the CdG, but Purple Patch is fascinating, the more I smell the more I love. Unfortunately the White dries down to a mildly unpleasant lemon air freshener accord on me (very odd).
Also love Champaca (fave Cdg again) and am dying to see what Tom does with it. Have no idea when new Private Blends will arrive in Australia tho – probably ages.
I think Oud might be my favorite so far. The Champaca is pretty but not as interesting to me as some of the others…