This week, we're helping Inés, who has commented here a few times as lareinarumbera. Inés currently owns three perfumes (see below) but is looking for something she might like better.
Here is what we know about Inés:
She is in her 20s, but hangs out with people who are older than she is.
She is a full time student by day (psychology, economics, behavioral science) and a competitive ballroom dancer by night.
Style is more important than comfort. She likes black turtlenecks, black dresses and crazy high heeled shoes; she hates anything too girly, pink or frilly.
Inés likes…
Crisp, clean, “wakey-wakey” fragrances. Fragrances that smell like expensive soap.
Citrus, when it isn't too candied or sweet.
Basil and mint (not too heavy), clean spices, ginger, cucumber, aquatic notes (when done right), green tea, gin (juniper and alcohol), clean spices, lavender, sandalwood.
Inés doesn't like…
Sweet perfumes (fruity florals, gourmands, heavy vanilla).
Big florals/white florals.
Oriental perfumes (she loves the idea of orientals, but they make her nauseous after a couple hours).
Inés currently owns three perfumes:
Bvlgari Blv (for evenings and when she wants to feel sexy), Calvin Klein ck one (when she doesn't want to offend anyone) and Issey Miyake L'eau d'Issey Eau de Parfum (for when she wants to feel slightly more feminine).
And here are some of the perfumes Inés has worn in the past, but discarded:
Carolina Herrera 212 original (too grown up), Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue (no staying power), The Body Shop White Musk (too powdery), Cartier Eau de Cartier Concentrée (too linear), Clean Lather and Shower Fresh (too boring), Thierry Mugler Cologne (no lasting power), Marc Jacobs Splash Cucumber (no lasting power), J L Glow (too linear), Gucci Envy (after awhile it smelled like turpentine), Ralph Lauren Pure Turquoise (more turpentine) and Stella McCartney Stella (no sillage and too linear).
A few more requirements: nothing prohibitively expensive, please. And Inés wants something that comes in a spray bottle (not splash), and while she knows that many of the kinds of fragrances she likes aren't powerhouses, lasting power is an issue.
What say you? My recommendations:
First, I asked Inés if she had tried Annick Goutal Neroli or Mandragore (she had: no lasting power) or Bvlgari Omnia Crystalline (she had: forgettable). So much for that.
Inés has not tried my next recommendation: Hermès Un Jardin après la Mousson. This would fit the “clean spices” and “aquatic notes done right” specifications, and I think it's crisp and clean enough in general to suit. She might also want to try Jardin Sur Le Nil while she's at it, and if she is ever in the mood to splurge, maybe even Osmanthe Yunnan.
Another one worth a try: Prada Pour Homme or Prada Man or whatever its official name is. This, to me, is all about “expensive soap”, and it has some other notes that Inés likes as well. I think it's been a bigger hit with women than with men. If she doesn't mind borrowing from the men's aisle, she might also try the classic Guerlain Vetiver. For an “expensive soap” fragrance for women, perhaps Hermès Caleche.
Note: image Postbox, St. Petersburg, Russia, via marcella bona at flickr, some rights reserved.
133 Comments
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all the Hermes scents you recommended sound perfect!
hm, expensive soap- Ivoire by Balmain comes to mind- elegant & different. i have always found the humble “w” by Banana Republic to be an easy go-to soapy scent- clean but not dryer sheet-y- and gets compliments, believe it or not
thinking Jo Malone Lime & Basil would be worth a sniff. as for lavender, her Amber Lavender scent is clean and soft.
my ultimate lavender is the nearly impossible to get (hm is this why i love it so much,LOL!) Serge Lutens Encens et Lavande, sigh. if sniffing the Serges, Gris Clair is an odd and cool lavender, also gorgeous.
How about close to home – Bvlgari Blv Notte? It's a clean oriental with the familiar ginger note plus a crisp freshness from the vodka. The chocolate isn't heavy or gourmand, is more clean-powdery. I don't think she'd find it unwearable at all since it's just a twist on her original Blv.
Three “clean” and somewhat soapy scents I like are: Chanel Cristalle EDP, Chanel No. 19 EDT, Estee Lauder Private Collection (the original).
Lately, I have also been trying Acqua di Parma, and to me, this line is all about morning freshness. The last few days I have worn Iris Noble (I think the EDT, but it is not labeled as such). It is a bit “white floral”, but I really get an expensive soap sense from this one. Also, Colonia Assoluta is a lovely citrus, even though it has an underlying sweetness.
For the Hermes you have suggested, I found the longest lasting to be Jardin sur le Nil. Apres le Mousson and Osmanthe Yunnan both have longevity issues for me.
She may also want to try the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria fragrances, especially for the summer. The new Laurier Reglisse is a lovely “green citrus” on my skin, and not too sweet.
Hello – a long time lurker here, but today I just had to comment! L'Ete en Douce is very crisp and clean as well as being pretty without frilliness. For an expensive soap smell, I think Creed's Original Vetiver is perfect. Although it is much like Thierry Mugler Cologne but with better lasting power. For a more affordable scent she could try Eau Turquoise by Parfums de Nicolai? It is a little heavy for me but still refreshing
Miller et Bertaux #3 Green Green Green is my go-to crisp clean wakey wakey scent. Jo Malone Lime Basil & Mandarin also crossed my mind, so I second that rec.
Hey, Balmain Ivoire is a great rec. Not sure where to find a tester.
Ines, you should be able to find the Jo Malones easily enough.
I have not smelled that one!
I love that Laurier Reglisse — I want a bottle!
Iris Nobile might be perfect, and yes, the EdT instead of the EdP.
L'Ete en Douce is a great rec. Ines, that is by L'Artisan. I think the others are self-explanatory.
Fresh Lemon Sugar is a very 'clean' scent, especially in the summer heat. I layer it with Guerlain Vetiver or Jo Malone Grapefruit to cut that tad of sweetness, though a lot of people don't get that sweet undertone.
Guerlain Vetiver alone is another inexpensive wakey-wakey smell and it has decent staying power.
Robin, is there any way we can get reports from the previous Morning Mail threads? I sure would like to know the response to some of our recommendations
Perhaps this is a litle more citrucy than most suggestions, but I think Patricia de Nicolai's New York might appeal to Ines. Unfortunately lasting power IS an issue for me with New York, but I feel it matches her sense of style. Her interest will not wane as this beautiful fragrance develops.
I love MB Green! Ines, that is a niche scent and you might have to do some hunting online. Your-cosmetics.com does sell samples.
Ines, samples at luckyscent.com or beautyhabit.com
It's a little opaque (and discontinued, I think) but Calvin Klein's Truth is like a hybrid soap-oriental fragrance. Not my personal fave, but a very interesting scent, fitting “the idea of an oriental” while still have a fresh, scrubbed quality that doesn't overwhelm in the long run (if you go light on the application). Might work for the nighttime.
MPG Eau Pour Le Jeune Homme has a clean and citrusy vibe to it. And it's not something she will smell on many other people.
Hi,
Parfums de Nicolai Eau Turquoise. It has that right out of the shower clean/fresh scent with a bit of a french perfume vibe. It comes in a 3.4 fl. oz. bottle for $65.00.
p.s. it's billed as a fruity-floral, but I don't agree with that. It's not sweet or sour. It's just fresh.
Oh and I second R's rec of the new Hermes.
Dawn
How about Dolce & Gabbana (red cap)? That is seriously soapy with hints of vanilla and amber, but not gourmand at all.
And Prada Infusion D'Iris.
Would the Jarden Mediterranee be too sweet, you think? I wonder about the fig note.
You know, I ask everyone to get back to me, but so far, nobody has. In all fairness, most of these women have ended up with SERIOUSLY long lists of things to try! But I'll send out a few nagging emails, LOL…
Interesting layering, I'll have to try that!
Ines, you might be able to find Truth at ebay or at an online discounter.
I love that one! Ines, you could find samples at aedes, beautycafe, theperfumeshoppe, luckyscent.
Ines, we covered the PdN Eau Turquoise above. Since you've got 2 recs for it now, guess it's a “must try”
The new Chloe Eau de Parfum!
has the most beautiful expensive soapy clean smell.
Its a winner. you have to try it. Bottle is friggen amazing too!
If you like the soapy smells. you MUST try it.
Escada Signature came to mind, reading her likes…I think it is aquatic “done right”, very fresh and wakey with good lasting power…and very affordable (under $30 at many discounters)
I'm thinking the Medit. might be too sweet. Prada Infusion d'Iris is interesting, might be worth a shot! I'm terrible about D&G, still haven't tried that one.
Ines, in the US that one is at Saks, not sure where you'll find it but I'm sure it is somewhere.
Oh, I meant to second the Prada Infusion d'iris!
Aww, that postbox!
I hesitate to say it, but L'Eau de L'Artisan- crispy, clean, with basil and mint, and smells like cucumber
Guerlain:
Vetiver Pour Elle
Habit Rouge (soapy leather)
Cherry Blossom in its many permutations has green tea
Herba Fresca (green tea, lily-of-the-valley and spearmint)
Ines, you may wish to try Dolce & Gabbana Sicily – it is soapy like the Red Cap one but with extra lemon. If staying power is a problem with your regular fragrances, Sicily will be a joy to wear.
If someone wants to buy you a fantastic present, ask for Cellular Energizing Body Spray from La Prairie, it's citrusy and elegant and has fantastic staying power.
If spending your own money, try Lancome Aroma Tonic, a citrus and green tea body spray. You will love it and should be available at discounters.
Another elegant and citrusy fragrance is DKNY – the original – great staying power too! Hope this helps!
Agree, a tester would be tough…but miniatures show up regularly on eBay.
And one more, from Guerlain Aqua Allegoria – Herba Fresca!!!
Ines, try the original Gendarme. Although it's marketed as a men's fragrance, women wear it as well. It's what I reach for when I don't want to smell 'perfumed' and I just want to smell good. It's got citrus/verbena top notes (but never smells like a household cleanser), jasmine and thyme as heart notes all bound to the slightest hint of leather in the base. All in all, it comes off as slightly soapy and while it doesn't project itself too much, it's lovely.
Well, to take her profile a bit away from the citrus and edible greens (like cucumber), and more toward the edge of the forest (verdant green), how about Canovas “Ballad Vert”? Clean, but interesting (not a single note or stridently linear).
Did I miss something…is there a reason to avoid Bulgari Au The Vert?
The Verte has almost no longevity, though….and the Extreme is just not the same….
Your comment about the forest reminds me of Ormonde Jayne Woman, but this is rather pricey.
Van Cleef and Arpels First = expensive soap
Several Diptyqes might fit the bill – maybe Eau d'Elide with it's citrus and herbal combo. It has orange, lavendar, herbs and vanilla – the vanilla is not too sweet.
How about Cartier Eau de Cartier Concentree? It's got Coriander Leaves, Lavender Leaves, Violet Leaves, Nutmeg, Blond Amber, Blue Cedar Wood, Patchouli, Musk? It isn't overpowering but has nice staying power.
Or, Clarins Eau Dynamisante with, Lemon, Patchouli, White Thyme, Petit Grain and Rosemary, staying power is so so…
I was going to recommend Un Jardin Apres la Mousson (even though the sweet cantaloupe note may be too sweet?) other than that, I would recommend Le Parfum de Therese's less expensive sister Diorella – for the basil and aquatic-melony notes; Citron Citron by Miller Harris (Ines might need to search for a decant of that as it comes only in very large bottles) for its very dry take on citrus, with cool spices and a hint of mint. As far as expensive soapy fragrances go, I would have suggested my own Sabotage if it wasn't for the fact that it doesnt come in spray any longer and is not what most consider affordable – so how about Ivoire? It's a little different than the other scents Ines tried but might just work, and the lasting power is excellent.
I love that fragrance, it smells great on men and women too.
Ohhh! just thought of another frag: Ivy League by Domenico Caraceni, with Lemon, bergamot, mandarin, chamomile, geranium, jasmine, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, vetiver, musk, amber.
that fig can go either way, in my opinion. I find it way to cloying for me but others find it 'fresh'. I think the only way to know is to sample it – luckily it's an Hermes that's pretty easy to find (I hope).
Another one she might like is Diptyque Oyedo! I love that stuff – I can only wear it on the hottest of days – it's got a clean sharpness that's almost razor-like, in my opinion – but it's perfect for a sweltering July day.
I'm going to give myself away here as being terribly pedestrian, but for a soapy scent, I would suggest Estee Lauder White Linen. If the original is too powdery, the flankers might also work. As for bright, wakey-wakey scents, two that are very easily accessible (although instantly recognizable) are Clinique Happy and Tommy Girl.
Ines might do well to check out the men's counter as well. I actually really like several of Crabtree and Evelyn's men's scents, especially “Uncharted” and “West Indian Lime.” As another lover of cool, fresh, somewhat herbal scents, I often find what I'm looking for in musty old bottles of aftershave.
Also, I'm right with Ines on the interest in basil, mint and juniper/gin in my scents. Any suggestions on where to find these notes specifically?
All Guerlain, so if you've a good Guerlain counter nearby you can try them all at once
I have never tried Escada Signature!
Hey, not a bad idea. I love that one too.
Sicily might be just perfect, I'd forgotten about that one! Have not tried that La Prairie. Would 2nd the DKNY too.
Good rec. I haven't tried the newer Gendarme EdP, but it might have more staying power.
I figured The Vert was out due to lasting power. Ines, the Ballad Vert is by Manuel Canovas. Rather hard to find, unfortunately, but perhaps someplace near you has it.
She lists the Cartier in her “tried but discarded” list.
AKA Escada…the discounters seem to call it Escada Signature, so I figured that was correct.
IIRC, Eau d'Elide is discontinued, but probably still around. First is an interesting one — I think of it as more of a “big floral” but it might just work. Ines, you can probably find it at a high end department store.
Ines, Diorella is by Christian Dior (you probably could have figured that out, LOL). Miller Harris samples at beautyhabit or luckyscent, the Balmain Ivoire we've already discussed, I think.
Ines, samples at luckyscent
Also, PdN Eau Exotique…
I would recommend Eau Du Gingembre by Roger & Gallet
They MAKE expensive soap
And this, although not too much reminiscent of that, has a vibe and also big ginger in a “classy” and Euro-py way.
Also many people describe it as fresh and clean
Agree with the DKNY — great scent — and suggest Bigarade Concentree, which may be a bit pricey.
I just tried on the Marc Jacobs Basil – if Ines has trouble with longevity with MJ it might not work but it smells nice and clean and herbal. The bottle they had at Nordstrom was gigantic, though. I'm sorry Mugler Cologne did not work – that was my first thought.
Demeter makes both Gin and Tonic and Mojito colognes – might take care of juniper and mint!
I like the Commes des Garcons Vetiveru, Guerlain Vetiver, and for a more lemony vetiver, the Chanel Sycomore. The CdG, which is less smoky than the Guerlain, is fairly cheap and samples can be had at Lucky Scent.
Ines & Robin –
Although the Montale line can be expensive, Fougeres Marines is another great marine scent done well. It has quite a bit of fern and geranium on a base of fresh sea salt and clean musk…..a summer fragrance of mine, and I don't even like marine scents! Another nice marine scent is Comptoir Sud Pacifique's Aqua Moto, which is a “cucumber aquatic” with some mint, woods and iodine thrown in. Also, Aveda Pure-Fume Tonic for Men is a nice warm, soapy, fresh fragrance….it has decent lasting power, but doesn't develop a whole lot.
This was a great challenge….good luck Ines,
Marko
Apothia Velvet Rope for the gin! Guerlain Herba Fresca is still my favorite mint.
I wish I could find R&G near me…I keep hearing how wonderful that one is. Eventually I'll break down and buy it unsniffed.
Ines, the Bigarade Concentree is by Frederic Malle, not sure where you'll find that near you.
I really liked the CdG Vetiverru. Can't remember now how the lasting power was, but it comes in a huge bottle…
Ines, Aedes & Luckyscent both carry Montale, although it is a huge line and don't know if they have that one. The CSP & Aveda should be easier to find.
Perhaps it is a bit pricey, but Comme des Garcons #3 is one of my all time favorite scents that is fresh, slightly soapy and has incredible lasting power. I'm almost reluctant to share it because I love it so.
CdG #2 is easier to find at a discount and has some of the abstraction of Flower, the spice of BLV (which I also love), a fresh soapyness, and an herbal woodyness you might enjoy.
In terms of soapyness, Hermes Orange Vert is a classic that is often available online very inexpensively. For a citrus the lasting power isn't bad, and it has a refined masculine dry-down you might enjoy if you like BLV.
Demeter Gin & Tonic is a great choice!
I second that one, and if you are a fan of ginger (prominent in BLV) you might also like Demeters Gingerale or Fresh Sake.
How about Rive Gauche by Yves St Laurent (a classic you can find through online discounters) or Eau des Merveilles by Hermes?
Maybe it's just me but when I think of expensive soap I think of PdN Sacrebleu or is that too perfumey? What about Fissore's cashmere for women?
In haste (so someone may already have suggested these, sorry!):
Nandebary Pink + Green;
Prada Iris;
Monsieur Balmain
Penhaligons Castile
Castelbajac
Vent Vert
Diptyque Eau de Lierre + Virgilio (issues of tenacity, here~)
original version of Eau de Cartier (since she's tried the concentrated version)
AG Eau d'Hadrien
Limone di Sicilia
Pure White Linen
Yerbamate
Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina / Extra Vieille
SL 5 o'clock (since ginger seems to be favored)
Paul Smith Story (ivy + vetiver)
Hermès Brin de Réglisse
Caron Eau de Réglisse
All I can think of for now
You know, I personally wouldn't have thought that SJP's Covet was expensive-soapy, but that's EXACTLY what a coworker said when I walked into her office wearing it. “Oooh, you smell like the world's most creamy, expensive soap!!” were her exact words. So, while it's not fresh-fresh, it does have lemon and lavender and lusciousness AND great longevity, which seems to be an issue with our gal. It also fits a student budget more than some of the others, which is definitely a consideration, she says. The bath things are nice, too!
Some suggestions for Ines:
Bond No. 9's “The Scent of Peace” – very similar to D&G Light Blue but with more staying power.
Creed's “Silver Mountain Water” – very bracing and herbal yet pretty.
Prescriptive's Calyx – does it get more “wakey-wakey” than this?
PS – love this site!
I agree with several suggestions: Bulgari Blu Notte, which I just wore last night after neglecting it for months. Lovely, and a tester is available @ perfumeport.com for less than twenty dollars. Another Bulgari suggestion: Au The Blanc (which is available as an expensive soap
, and what about Niki de Saint Phalle? Both Au The Blanc & Niki de St. Phalle are available quite inexpensively online.
I'd like to suggest 2 frags:
1. Essence Pure pour Homme by ST Dupont – I'd call it clean-green-woody. It's just a bit citrus-y – sweet for the first minute or two and then becomes woody, but very clean. It has Bamboo note in it. Overall, it smells clean, but complex and different from all these mass market “clean” scents targeted for men. It's very underrated, I think, and also not expensive at all!
2. Eau Svelte by Dior – although I'm not sure about staying power, and I don't know if it's still in production, but Ines can find it on ebay. Great scent IMO, herbal, fresh and different, too.
Yes to the Iris Nobile EDT – I just bought a full bottle!
Ines, CdG samples at luckyscent or theperfumeshoppe
I thought about the Merveilles too. Ines needs to spend some serious time at a Hermes boutique — there is lots in the line that might suit her.
Guessing that Sacrebleu might be a bit much, but anything is worth a shot! I cannot remember the Fissore, but Ines, you can get samples of both at luckyscent.
This is spooky – I just bought a bottle of L'Ete en Douce! And what about the other full bottle I bought the same week – in my defence, it was my birthday and my amnosiac other half copped for two of them – namely Bergamote by The Different Company. I know everyone refers to it as “Divine” but it doesn't seem to mention that on the label anymore. Crisp, zingy orange – pure citrus therapy!
I will second Hermes Un Jardin Apres Le Mousson and Osmanthus Yunnan. Also Guerlain's Herba Fresca and Pampelune while we are at it. The nicest clean, soapy smelling fragrance I have tried in a while is Tom of Finland and you know, I think Ines could pull it off! Certainly fits the black mold and the not too girly requirement.
I think I may mean “anosmiac”. That's like “anemone” – no idea how to spell that – good job it is not a common perfume note!
Or Annick Goutal's Eau du Sud for the basil note?
strangely enough, you can still find loads of calvin klein truth and contradiction (which i also belive is discontinued) in canada. the counters will tell you they're gone, but all the drugstores carry it all the time! whee will putter off to try it one of these days
ps – missed commenting because i was on a transcontinental flight… but totally excited to read the overwhelming number of responses and take notes!
oooh how did you know? gin is my poison (that and red wine)!
scentiments.com or parfum1.com for testers.
I saw Ivoire last night on both.
I just love R&G's Gingembre, my bathroom smells of the soap right now. I'm seriously partial to ginger, and this remains my favorite rendition although I know some people have found it too simple. I don't think you'd regret springing for a box of the soap.
How about Origins Ginger essence intensified.
You are SO right about Calyx? How could I have forgotten that in my earlier posts? – I have 2 bottles of the stuff!LOL.
And it sure has serious staying power!
I keep wondering how one deals with the SCORES of recommendations that roll in during these reader mail pieces! (Just noticed your reply above along the same lines, Robin)
In any case, I'll keep my list brief:
- the new CdG Grapefruit
- Jo Malone Lime Basil Mandarin
Yup, that would be why to not recommend it. I find that when the temp outside is mild–from 65-74• F?–I can actually get more than 3 hours out of it. But who wants to play roulette?
Luckyscent has samples of the Canovas.
BTW, this game is fun. Thanks for keeping the new “seekers” coming!
Glad you enjoy it
T, that's a pretty darned long list! Penhaligon's Castile is a great choice, wish I could remember how the lasting power is.
Interesting, I don't think of it as soapy at all. But you're right that it has lots of notes she likes, if the base isn't too heavy.
Good point about Scent of Peace, that might be worth a shot. Calyx is great stuff, and you're right, as wakey-wakey as they come.
Glad you like the blog
Au The Blanc might work, and it lasts longer than the green tea.
LOL — I assume nobody on earth would try this many new things, but who knows? Anyway, can't hurt
Tom of Finland might be an interesting choice. Ines, that one is by Etat Libre d'Orange.
You have a long road ahead of you, LOL…enjoy!
I've never tried that, but I should! I could use some intense ginger.
Wow, there are so many suggestions on here, lol!
Fascinating, I really don't see Ines as a JCE type perfume wearer, and I didn't find many of the suggestions bold enough for her!
I think she's a perfect fit for Tarantella – my most recent fragrance obsession! It's a chypre (just like her ck1 but less “bergamot-fresh” and with more “guts” to it) with citrus-aldehydic topnote for that luxurious soapy smell… but it's warm and rich with a mossy-woody drydown. Maybe Ines even knows the “Tarantella” dance from her ballroom background? That was the dance that inspired the fragrance direction.
and they will send a free sample anywhere in the world if you go to
http://www.tommisooni.com
I've got mine, ah sillage is amazing… it just develops for hours on end, so lovely
Has she tried any other of the Clean fragrances?
I like Scent of Peace as well. If we are talking LIght Blue clones, I am quite fond of Moschino I Love Love – it's by the same nose as D&G Light Blue but longer lasting and available for under $30 at many online discounters.
I have found some of their limited edition soaps that smell of Tomatoes!!! I am not big on USING soap, more on just smelling it hehehe. (It dries my skin big time, any soap but glicerine does) so I usally use shower gels by Klorane or Nivea, etc.
I think I can brave the itching while smelling of mediterranean sun-kissed tomatoes!
By the way, Robin, I am sure you've said it before, but inwich state do you live? I am sure we can track someone that has a store that carries that. We can try!
God, this is fun; I'd love to do this.
M'kay, so I was gonna recommend Burberry Weekend for Men because it smells like gin (it's got a ton of juniper berries xD) but it seemed too flat. Good lasting power, though. I came into a bottle when it was gifted to me by a very sweet friend who assumed I like one Burberry, so I must like EVERY Burberry and I merely use it to layer. I'm gonna have it until die, I swear. o=
But then I smelled what I was wearing today: Heeley Iris de Nuit. It smells more fresh than floral and it's still going strong; I've had a nap today, which nearly guarantees I wake up without much smell. And it's bright, yet I think it would adapt beautifully through the seasons.
Wasn't there a Guerlain Aqua Allegoria with both… mandarin and basil? Was that already suggested?
I have Fresh Sugar Lemon too, and have been wondering what to layer with it..good ideas, thanks.
Ines has a very similar fragrance history as me. I am more *girly* though. Stella in 2 has more peony in it and a bit too much amber for me. But I'm afraid I'm just as frustrated as she. I thought Issay Miyake, L'eau d' Issay would be the one. It had all my favorite notes. But I've learned that doesn't mean anything much.
I wish I could help. Bulgari Black is unisex and rumered as Angelinea Joli's scent…and it's black
-Joy, Becca
…oh, and Tocca has some nice kinda quality clean scent like, Florance, Stella and oh darn, what else? Help
i'm also a full-time, 20-something student (though not a woman, nor a ballroom dancer). but i identify in a way. and i would suggest:
Dior, Eau Sauvage – very stylish and somehow casual, not overtly feminine but just enough. almost crisp and entirely lovable. unsweet citrus. available anywhere and for cheap. (i layer it with guerlain vetiver to up the masculine — also, vetiver is a bit “old time” for many folks i think. i wear it when i am around people of my parents' generation or am channeling a different era.)
Andy Tauer, Reverie au Jardin – dry, aromatic, herby lavender. a little woody? i love this one. i really do. entirely unisex.
i just tried: Le Labo Rose 31. It's meant for a man but pH balanced for a woman. lovely tea accord at the drydown with just a hint of rose. it reminds me of poivre samarcande but with less pepper & much better lasting power. if only this were a bit cheaper.
the l'artisans and the annick goutals recommended above don't really work for me but they're worth a shot.
Wow, this is a long list of recommendations.
I like the Acqua Di Parma suggestions previously noted (Iris Nobile and Colonia Assoluta), and to that I would add the AdP Blu Mediterraneo Mirto. It has citrusy notes (bergamot, calabrian lemon, sweet orange), plus basil and juniper — I smelled it last weekend, and liked it.
I notice some vetivers were also suggested by others. How about TDC Sel De Vetiver? It has a nice grapefruit note, and the saltiness makes it very interesting.
p.s. I'm really enjoying this blog — I've been lurking for the last few weeks.
I'd recommend l'Artisan's Navegar, which is like sipping an extra-strong gin and tonic whilst sitting on an old dock on Cape Cod on an Autumn's evening…
Another one worth trying that should be readily purchased cheaply is Sander for Men by Jill Sander. This one starts greenish-blue (thanks to mint in its top notes) and then dries down to a transparent incense. Most unsual and very sexy.
Both would be perfect on a woman…
Platinum Égoïste by Chanel also comes to mind. I had a mini of it some 14 years ago and liked it very much (I'm a woman). From the comments on Basenotes I understand it's love it or hate it scent, but several people call it unisex and some mention gin note.
I bought both Ete en Douce (full bottle) and Bergamote (as a decant) last month too! We must have similar taste in scents!
I was torn between Bergamote by TDC or Cologne Bigarade by FM, but in the end was put off by the cumin note of the FM. I think maybe the word you mean is anosmic?
Oops I meant Bigarade Concentree not Cologne Bigarade!
Anosmic is very possibly what I mean, thanks! Yes, my other half is completely unable to distinguish between the 200 odd (mostly sample) scents in my collection – when pressed, he has three standard responses: “Smells of craft shop” (90% of what he is presented with), “Smells of craft shop with the window open” (5% – for the more wispy creations of Olivia Giacobetti et al) and “Ugh, take it away!” (- the other 5%).
Regarding your and my likes, that is an interesting coincidence and I too would be put off by cumin – ditto clove, opoponax, stryax and the dreaded civet. I am pleased to report that my micro receptors detect no civet whatsoever in L'Ete en Douce. Bartamy (if I have correctly remembered her name) and I appear to share one or two major hates, most pointedly Narcisse Noir which is my olfactory Room 101 or “Bete Noire”!
how about Colona by Aqua di Parma? I am not sure what it costs in your neck of the woods but it is fresh and clean. I would consider some of the guerlain colognes too. These can be gotten cheaply and are fresh. Imperial and Coq (something like that!) were what I had in mind. They are lighter but you can just splash them all over!
I'd say Tarantella is a bigger, more floral scent than Ines is looking for, but worth a shot since the samples are free
Guerlain Mandarine Basilic, and not sure if it's been recommended yet or not. Good call, the lasting power is pretty good for a citrus.
I don't know if Ines likes iris or not…
Eau Sauvage is a huge favorite of mine. Have never tried it layered over Vetiver, must do that.
Ines, don't know if Le Labo is near you or not.
Hi & welcome, and yes, it is a VERY long list.
Ines, TDC is The Different Company (you probably already knew that, but just in case).
It's also fun to see what other NST members recommend. My “must try” list has expanded!
Now I have all these little fragrance lists & post-it notes all over my bathroom mirror!
Speaking of civet, have you read Chandler Burr's article in the NY Times, Meow Mix? It speaks of civet, it's hilarious!
Not that Ines needs any more suggestions, but l'Eau par Kenzo might be JUST the ticket! It's so very clean but it's got some staying power and isn't as linear as many of the same personality type. Bergamot, citrus, freesia, cedar and oakmoss — how does that sound, fair Ines? You can pick some up for a relative song on eBay.
Good call.
Not sure if Combat Woman will check back here, but a very affordable scent that I like a lot isThe Thymes “Fresh Basil”. It's now discontinued, but still available on eBay.
Absolutely agree about civet and also clove. It actually took me a while to fall in love with Apres L'Ondee because the violet/carnation/anise accords were registering as clove. I have no idea what opoponax and stryax smell like though. I don't think I've tried Narcisse Noir – I'm kind of saving the Caron line for when my nose gets more experienced!
Blue by Ralph Lauren is fresh, clean and easy to like. Unpretentious, cheerful, and doesn't come at a premium now that it has been on the market for 5 years. It gets no mention in 'Perfumes, The Guide' but it doesn't mean it isn't worth a try, or a sniff.
~editke
I haven't seen that and will try to track it down as it sounds excellent!
If you took a while to fall for Apres L'Ondee (and I did too!) where do you stand on Hiris and Shalimar? They are both hailed as greats, but there is something offputting to me in the opening blast, which I cannot get past.
Do not rush to try Narcisse Noir – or most of the Carons, for that matter. I don't think an experienced nose is necessary to not appreciate them!
Sometime I will drop you a line separately as am most curious to see where else our tastes may concur!!
Actually, I lucked out, and managed to track down an archive of his articles. I am currently wading through them to get a background on his thoughts…
Blue is one of my forgotten faves, and it lasts forever. Amazing staying power.
I found it – eee-yuukkkk!
I have tried Rose Poivre, by the way, and thought it was gross…so my civet detectors were on form that day. : )
How about Dune from Christian Dior? One of my absolute favorites. It's definitely not a floral. Ines likes the idea of an oriental. She also likes marine elements. Dune has both qualities. She hangs out with a older crowd, so she seems sophisicated. Dune seems to be very sophisicated and timeless AND it's easily acquired very inexpensively online or at most Dior counters in department stores.
I also second Robin on SJP Covet.
Dune is a great choice, and also Dune for men is nice on ladies as well!