Our subject (victim?) this week: Phyllis. Phyllis has been interested in scent since she received a bottle of tuberose perfume as a child, and she is currently looking for her holy grail fragrance. She'd like to find something that isn't widely worn.
Here is what we know about Phyllis:
She is in her 50s and is currently going back to college to get her Bachelor's degree.
She considers herself a “child of the 80s”, and loves The Cure.
She is petite, blonde, a Romantic, a cat person, and designs her own clothing when possible.
Phyllis had a collection of 12 perfumes but she recently sold 8 of them on ebay because they didn't suit her. The “goners” include Chanel no. 5 (“too banal”), Chanel no. 9 (“too predictible”), Agent Provocateur (“a bit too blousy”) and Parfums DelRae Amoureuse (“a bit too sweet”). The “keepers” included Belle en Rykiel (“warm and sexy”), Bvlgari Rose Essentielle (“deep true rose”) and Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Ancient Air (“an old school patchouli concoction”). She also has a bottle of Kenzo Amour Indian Holi which she recently purchased. She had hoped to “find it full of incense and essential oils”, but instead found it a “lighter, tang-ier fragrance”, and she likes it but won't replace it when it's gone.
A few other clues:
She loves sage, lavender, green grass, basil, musk, roses, citrus and patchouli.
She does not like overly sweet perfumes.
Other things she has worn in the past but no longer wears/likes: Paloma Picasso, Estee Lauder White Linen, Guerlain Shalimar.
So, what say you? My recommendations:
I fastened on the idea of a sexy rose fragrance, with deep woody and/or earthy base notes. Along those lines, Phyllis might want to try Hors Là Monde Shiloh (by the same perfumer as Amoureuse, but not nearly so sweet or heavy), Frederic Malle Une Rose, Eau d'Italie Paestum Rose, The Peoples of the Labyrinths A.MAZE and 10 Corso Como. She can find samples at Aedes, Beautyhabit and Luckyscent, but for the Frederic Malle she will have to either visit Barneys or buy a decant from The Perfumed Court.
Note: image Postbox, St. Petersburg, Russia, via marcella bona at flickr, some rights reserved.
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Sounds as if Phyllis likes a bit of crispness to her perfumues. How about Chanel Sycomore or ELPC Tuberose Gardenia? I'd also recommend Stephanie de St. Aignan's Berberiades, which is a crisp, soft, floral, spicy, clean, dirty enigma! (I love it.)
For some reason EL's Tuberose Gardenia comes to mind.
She sounds like she could wear Pierre Montale too, if Indian Holi is “ight'.
As for summer, Un Jardin En Mediterannee could be an idea.
Hi Robin! I love, love, love these posts, they're so much fun! Focusing on the green, herbal notes Phyllis loves, how about Miller & Bertaux No. 3 – Green, green, green? The top notes include a nice zing of lemon, and she likes citrus, and the dry down is sometimes floral-musky on me, sometimes a woody vetiver. It's something I especially love in the spring and summer.
Shiloh and Paestum Rose are great recs, along with 10 Corso Como.
Others she could try : Costes which has lavender, incense, rose & woods, L'Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses, Le Labo Rose 31, maybe several Montales with rose & aoud, like White Aoud, Aoud Velvet, Aoud Rose Petals, and Andy Tauer could be an option for rose & incense, L'Air du Desert Marocan, Incense Rose, and to add a touch of green she might try Reverie au Jardin too, and on the green/citrusy/herbs side Nasomatto Hindu Grass, Stephanie De Saint Aignan Li Altarelli, Parfums del Rae Eau Illuminee (has basil, lavender & herbs, it does have vanilla too, hope it's not too sweet), Ineke Balmy Days & Sundays, Miller et Bertaux – Green, Green, Green / No. 3, Hermes Brin de Reglisse, Eau D'Italie Magnolia Romana, Parfum d'Empire Fougere Bengale.
Phyllis, Chanel Sycomore is part of the Les Exclusifs collection, at larger Chanel boutiques & some dept stores. “ELPC” is Estee Lauder Private Collection, and the Tuberose Gardenia scent should be at any Estee Lauder counter. You can get Stephanie de St Aignan samples at Luckyscent.
Any particular Montale?
Phyllis, Un Jardin en Mediterannee is by Hermes and is at Neiman Marcus, Sephora.
They are fun, aren't they? I love No. 3 too. Phyllis, you can find samples at your-cosmetics.com or fourseasonsproducts.com.
What about the Parfums de Rosine series: I get Rose d'Ete confused with Un Zeste de Rose but they are both dry citrus-roses with green notes she might enjoy.
For some reason, I'm thinking Shiloh will be perfect.
Ok Phyllis, on the others: Luckyscent will have Costes, L'Artisan, Montale, Tauer, Nasomatto, Stephanie de Saint Aignan, Delrae, Ineke, Eau d'Italie & Parfum d'Empire. We've already covered the Miller et Bertaux. The Hermes Brin de Reglisse is in their Hermessence collection & only found at larger Hermes boutiques. Le Labo you can find at Barneys, or you can probably buy a sample at The Perfumed Court.
Good call, and I'd add the Rosine Folie de Rose for a dry rose chypre. Samples can be found at Aedes or Beautyhabit.
I would suggest Noir Epices, with that gorgeous rose base, or L'homme sage, with it's incense-y woods.
And because I suggest it to everyone, my new fave Silver Factory:-)
adding other rose scents she might enjoy : Lancome Mille & Une Rose, Yves Rocher Rose Absolue, Creed Fleur de The Rose Bulgare, Jo Malone Red Roses, for rose &green grass notes.
Phyllis, Noir Epices is another Frederic Malle scent. L'Homme Sage is by Divine, and you can get samples at Luckyscent.
Oops…and Silver Factory is Bond no. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory (and a great call, by the way) — at Saks, or you can order a sample from beautycafe.com or directly from bondno9.com
Here's a crazy thought
) How about Ormonde Jayne Woman, for a green velvety feel or a smooth green chypre like Niki de Saint Phalle ? And maybe even OJ Ta'if for a different type of rose.
Hey, the OJ is a great idea. Phyllis, samples (not cheap) can be ordered from ormondejayne.com.
The Niki de Saint Phalle is now rather unfortunately hard to find — not sure how you'd try it, but can be purchased from some online discounters.
In addition to the fabulous suggestions already posted I would add Vivienne Westwood's Anglomania (non-sweet rose with a green vibe) and Jacomo's Silences–a great green scent for year-round!
Ormonde Woman. Yep.
Parfum1.com has tons of Niki de Saint Phalle.
Didn't catch a specifc Montale in there, but Black Aoud seems like it is what she was hoping the Indian Holi would be. Oud Queen Rose if that one's too much. Also, for lavender with Indian spices, I just sampled Maharadjah (Parfums de Nicolai) which might float her boat. I love the Cure, too. (sigh)
2nd the L'Artisan Voleur de Roses, would add Premier Figuier as well. would also recommend Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir, and 2 Balmains- Ivoire and Vent Vert. Also agree with the Montale suggestions, delicious, all of them
And I love The Cure too!!
Hi,
Beyond Love by Kilian.
Dawn
Hi! First time commenter here.
L'Artisan Parumeur's Patchouli Patch sounds like a good match. It's patchouli (a little sharper then most versions) with some white musk. It's very smooth and not overly sweet.
Their Dzongkha is lovely if she likes dark incense and spices. It has leather and tea in it also. It is dark, but not heavy, and isn't falsely sweet.
Phyllis, Jo Malone is at Neiman Marcus. The Balmains — might be hard to find testers, but can purchase the perfumes online.
Phyllis, this is a tuberose scent; samples at aedes.com or luckyscent.com
Hi & welcome!
Phyllis, L'Artisan samples from aedes or luckyscent
Phyllis, you can get samples of Montale and Parfums de Nicolai at luckyscent or beautyhabit
Welcome, Phyllis! If you like Bulgari Rose Essentielle and consider it true and deep, and you also dig a little patchouli, I would seriously recommend you try both the roses from Juliet Has a Gun!!! MissCharming is rich and fresh and goes on and on with lots of presence; Lady Vengeance is darker and sexier, shot with patchouli and still very well-balanced.
For something deeper and less floral, you might want to consider Parfumerie Generale Cadjmere. It has that incense vibe, but it's also very warm and cuddly, not dark and menacing at all, with a bit of orange to lift it up and a nice degree of femininity.
Good luck!!
P.S. A drier Rosine with incense is Poussiere de Rose, and it is gorgeous!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm thinking the intriguing rose is the good path, as well…nobody has yet mentioned Strange Invisible Perfumes “Black Rosette,” which started me down the rabbit hole of scent. That crazy opening, which then becomes an intense spiced? incensed? dark rose…a rose which is, nonetheless, true. (As a gardener, I respect both the Bulgari and SIP for that.)
Black Rosette is awesome, one of my favorite from Strange Invisible Perfumes.
Phyllis, you can get a sample at strangeinvisibleperfumes.com
Phyllis, both of those are available for sale online, but it is unfortunately hard to find testers or samples.
P.P.S. Hermessence Collection Rose Ikebana is deceptively ethereal; it has some tart rhubarb and lively citrus but there's a smooth core of rose that is just quietly breathtaking. Not cheap, doesn't last for days on your skin, but it's a classic Jean-Claude Ellena, and one of his best, IMO.
How about Carthusia Mediterraneo, which is a nice green scent, especially for summer. Stella McCartney Stella is a nice rose, also Yves Rocher Rose Absolue and Voile d' Ambre.
I have a theory that 10 Corso Como is ideal for everyone, and I see you (Robin) already suggested it, so…
Manifesto by Isabella Rosellini. I bought mine at one of those outlet mall perfume shops, but I believe it is available at places like fragrancex.com and the like. It's great for this ultra-hot weather we're having here on the Atlantic seaboard.
I also wonder if she would like L'Heure Bleue. I realize I might be projecting my own tastes here, so please feel free to veto that if you think it is off the mark.
Hi Robin and Phyllis –
I second the Montale line of fragrances and suggest Black Aoud (for a dark, smokey rose), Roses Musk (for a simpler and “clean” smelling rose) and Golden Aoud (less sweet then White Aoud but still as compelling). I've been looking for a great rose scent myself lately, and recently rediscovered the immense power of Tea Rose by Perfumer's Workshop….I wonder if that would work? Also, if Phyllis doesn't mind wearing men's fragrance, L'Eau Bleue D'Issey pour Homme is wonderfully aromatic and herbal – although I hear it is being discontinued.
Good Luck,
Mark
Nice list! The Creed & Jo Malone are at Neiman Marcus, the Lancome is at *some* Lancome counters, and the Yves Rocher is available very cheaply online.
Samples of the Juliette Has A Gun Line can be found at luckyscent or beautyhabit; Parfumerie Generale is also at luckyscent
Phyllis, that one is at larger Hermes boutiques only.
Phyllis, you can find Stella at most department stores. The Yves Rocher is online, and samples of the Carthusia can be found at Aedes.
Interesting theory, LOL…I think I feel the same about Paestum Rose, I am always recommending it to people.
Phyllis, L'Heure Bleue is by Guerlain and should be at major department stores.
Go Tea Rose! Easiest to find online, but also often at TJ Maxx.
The L'Eau Bleue D'Issey can be found at Sephora, the Montales were covered earlier — Aedes, Luckyscent.
Another men's fragrance worth seeking out is Grigioperla by La Perla – a gorgeous green scent with little sweetness. If that's too dry for you, try La Perla's Hedo, which adds powder to the mix. Both are fabulous and easily worn by women as well as men.
How about Dyptique's Virgilio? Herbal and dry…
Caron's Third Man/No. 3 might be another contender: sweetness tempered by spices and green notes.
Hi Phyllis: You are sophisticated and worldly, creative and smart, fun in a “march to your own beat” kinda way, I'm guessing… Patchouli is a unique, distinctive fragrance, but you need it in a way that makes those you pass turn their heads, a little surprised and a little interested, thinking to themselves, “I know that smell, what is it? I like it, I'm drawn to it, it is familiar, yet I can't think of why…” That's the patchouli fragrance you need. Plus you want something different, that you can't buy at every perfume counter. It may have your HOLY GRAIL…only you might need to go to Paris to get it. It's definitely not widely worn–you can't buy it in the United States!
On the end of the Champs-Elysees there is a little offbeat jewelry and perfume shop called Reminiscence Paris. It's like a blend of hippie and couture, fun and free, yet sophisticated. I found a fragrance in that shop called “2000 Ans D'Amour”, or 2000 Years of Love. It's definitely patchouli, but it doesn't scream patchouli–it's enough patchouli for those around you to be intrigued and want to get close to you until they can remember what that smell is….
The Reminiscence website calls it a mysterious aphrodisiac. Topnotes: bergamot, orange. Mid: Cedar wood, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, floral accord. Basenotes: Benzoin Siam, vanilla, balsam and tonka beans. It's full of incense but not in an overpowering way–it's mysterious and lovely and sensual. Problem is…I don't know how you can get some of it. If you email the perfume princesses at http://www.theperfumedcourt.com they might be able to get it for you. Or even better, you'll have to go to Paris and pick it up…after all, if it is your Holy Grail, it's only fitting that you should have to make a once-in-a-lifetime journey to go find it!!
I 2nd (or 3rd or whatever) Paestum Rose, Incense rosé, Voleur de roses and Black Aoud for rose. I'd also like to suggest another Montale which to my nose has rose too but is darker and more leathery/herbal – Aoud cuir d'Arabie. Jicky has lavender on a warm and sexy base. Maybe Anat Fritz for something really herbal/woody? Or something from Mazzolari, who makes big, bold, classical scents with lots of patchouli and suchlike. Maybe Lancome Magie Noire as a budget alternative?
It sounds like Phyllis is a sophisticated lady, my suggestions:
1-Alessandro Dell’Acqua, (my top suggestion) starts with sweet pea, floral heart of rose, peony, and hibiscus, the base warms the whole blend up with a mix of musk, sandalwood, and incense. It is a crisp, clean fragrance. Nordstrom's used to carry it, but no longer…
2-L'Artisan Parumeur's Patchouli Patch, with osmanthus, patchouli, white musk, anise, spices
3-Jo Malone Red Roses, for a floral green note
4-EL PC Tuberose Gardenia, voluptuous, rich floral.
Or, for a straight up chypre/green note, Pheremone?? I don't know if they still make it? I've seen it at ULTA.
Phyllis, sorry to say I've no idea where you can test the La Perla scents, they aren't widely carried in the US. The Diptyque can be had at Aedes, the Caron you might be able to find at a department store.
Yosmiami.com in the US carries the Reminiscence line, but they don't always have everything in stock.
Phyllis, Jicky is by Guerlain. Anat Fritz is at Luckyscent, and so is Mazzolari.
Since she used to wear Shalimar and she doesn't shy away from deep/complex/old school, I recommend Phyliis try Guerlain's Rose Barbare. It's not cheap, but it has a great, dark base with a lot of woods and really nice patchouli.
Also, I really love Lipstick Rose (Frederic Malle), which strikes me as something that a child of the 80s would appreciate, though it's certainly au courant as well. It's supposed to smell like an old-fashioned tube of waxy lipstick, but to me it starts like a lollipop and wears like a rich, dark glass of port. I started wearing it as a party/evening fragrance, but I find I can get away with it pretty much any time of day – as long as I'm wearing black.
I think maybe Robert Smith needs to come out with a signature fragrance. Till then – have fun, Phyllis!
I love these posts, too! Phyllis, I would suggest my favorite rose scent, Inner Sanctum, from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. It's a deep rose/incense/woodsy composition. Along the same lines, but lighter and more citrussy for summer, is the Parfums Rosine scent Une Zeste de Rose, available @ beautyhabit and parfum1.
For samples of some of the harder to find fragrances mentioned (not niche but not mainstream), try beautyencounter.com and scentedmonkey.com. Both sell samples and have extensive lists. Have fun sniffing!
Or, how about this for an 80's fragrance theme?Robert Smith meets Patti Smith, blended with a little Souixsie?
Hello.
I'd say that if she “considers herself a “child of the 80s”, and loves The Cure, is petite, blonde, a Romantic, a cat person, and designs her own clothing when possible.”
There is only one course of action:
Dye her hair jet-black, cut it at home (lotsa jagged edges, blunt scissors a big help too).
Get a bottle of vivienne westwood's Budoir and if she finds it too sweet, layer it over Guerlain's Vetiver.
There you have it, instant new-romantic!
The first thing that came to mind was Voleur de Roses, which I love (especially in fall/winter). Glad to see that others suggested it as well.
P.S. I am of the same vintage, Phyllis, and loved the Cure, too, and all those cool bands of the day! We had fun, didn't we?? Still do, too. Hope you're turned on to Justin Currie and Del Amitri these days!! Yummy.
Ah! Have a new one (to me) to add: Ava Luxe Incense Rose. Twists the others around, by starting rose, and moving into incense/spice. Also has the “benefit” of presenting the classic Holy Grail pathos: you find a scent, and discovering it is no longer being manufactured. Must agree that the Montales make sense for this profile (the spice, the patch, the something funky/hippie/cat-woman-y…so long as you're not looking for something light….)
Who said Magie Noire? (see somewhere below) That's one I like; would recommend Phyllis try it for something off specifics in profile, but potentially in spirit.
I am in the same age group – ex-punk, used to wear some of the same scents. I recently fell deeply in love with Il Profumo Patchouli Noir. It is deep and rich and a little honeyed but more warm than overly sweet. My nose was buried in my wrist for hours, and the next day I wore it to work and my boss nearly attacked me.
Since everyone else is giving you a bazilion roses I am aiming more for the darker things. Tauer l'Air du Desert Marocain smells like hot sand – I liked it much better on the second try. I also like Maroc pour Elle but it is sweeter.
Demeter's Wet Garden is a good herbal/grassy – I found that is smelled less like aftershave if I threw on quite bit. Also like Dandelion for a green fresh scent that is more floral. Flower Show will put you over the top but it is interesting (if you like weird try Earthworm – I kinda love it – it's like wet potting soil or forest floor mulch on a wet day).
Okay I'll shut up now…
Phyllis, the Ava Luxe scents are at etsy.com.
Phyllis, I think we've covered all of those brands except the Alessandro Dell'Acqua, and I'm afraid I've no idea where to get that one except at an online discounter…
Phyllis, that particular Guerlain is at Bergdorf Goodman in NYC, not sure where you'll find it near you. The Malles, as mentioned above, are at Barneys
Thanks for including the shopping tips
Phyllis, Vivienne Westwood Boudoir is widely available online, but not sure where you'll find a tester.
It has several votes, so is a “must try”!
The il Profumo & Tauer lines are at luckyscent.
Demeter can be ordered direct from their websites, minis are $5 each.
If you like unorthodox roses, I'd recommend Fresh Cannabis Rose. It's heavy on the patchouli, and is really quite wonderful.
Perfect!!
Thanks for this great tip!!
Phyllis, Fresh can be found at Neiman Marcus.
I recommend:
Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur
Hermés 24, Faubourg
Kenzo Amour
Kenzo Flower Oriental
and also the Tom Ford Purple Patchouli
ahh, and Tom Ford Black Orchid
Did anybody mention Nahema? A unique bitterweet rose with peach and a woody drydown, it's reminiscent of the Victorian era and just might by funky enough for Phyllis. Is she a real person or fabricated for the poll? It's only available in EDP and perfume, if you're lucky!
I was also thinking of Nahema, and, as somebody already mentioned, Jicky.
Chanel Coco has some spicy rose, and Estee Lauder Knowing is a rather interesting rose scent also. I think both are from the 80's era, a time I remember fondly (love the Cure, also, lol). The rose scent I have been wearing most often lately is YSL Rive Gauche, yunmmy.
Les Neriedes Patchouli Antique and Chanel Coromandel are very nice patchouli scents which are a bit less “head shop” than some of the other ones I have smelled. Le Labo Patchouli 24 is more of a leather, IMO, but I love it anyway.
Am glad Coromandel has been suggested because that was going to be my suggestion. And while she's at it perhaps also try the other Chanel Les Exclusifs (partic. No. 18 and Bel Respiro). And I will add my voice to the chorus for Voleur de Roses and also pipe up a squeak for Frederic Malle Une Rose.
Yes for Malle's Une Rose and my other recommendations are: Encens et Lavande by Serge Lutens, Bois Blond and Harmatan Noir by Parfumerie Generale and maybe Rose Poivree by The Different Company.
I've never tried Harmatan Noir, and am fascinated by the combination of mint with the woods/herbs notes.
I'll add that to my “must try” list.
And Sephora.