For several years, I’ve been mourning the discontinuation (and disappearance) of a favorite fragrance, and I’ve searched high and low for it. A Perfume Detective is on the case. (I won’t reveal the perfume’s name till I secure every bottle remaining on the planet. Yes, greed!) Last summer, in Padova, Italy, I smelled a fragrance that was the closest I’ll probably ever come to my beloved, but discontinued, perfume — unless it’s reissued — but I could not get the name of the fragrance since the two people I smelled it on got lost in the crowd: a beautifully dressed woman walking her two dachshunds (also nicely appointed) and a man scurrying by my table as I had lunch at an outdoor cafe. I shared the pain of these close encounters with lots of people and one of those people, a Now Smell This reader in Europe, Dusan, said he would keep a nose out for the fragrance after I described it to him. I made one assumption about the mystery fragrance since I smelled it on a man and a woman in the space of a few hours: the scent must be new, circa spring/summer of 2007. About a month or so ago, Dusan recommended I sniff Courvoisier’s L’edition Imperiale; he felt it came close to the descriptions I gave him of the discontinued fragrance and the Padova perfume.
L’edition Imperiale, created by perfumer Alexis Dadier, contains mandarin, coriander, cardamom, tagette, smoked tea, royal calla lily, violet, cedar, vetiver, fir balsam, leather and amber. Though L’edition Imperiale shares certain qualities (and ingredients) with my discontinued/“lost perfume,” it is not the perfume I smelled in Padova; the reincarnation of my old perfume has not been found (yet!), but I’m glad I was introduced to L’edition Imperiale.
L’edition Imperiale opens with vibrant, natural-smelling herbaceous and citrus notes. (I love this opening accord.) Vetiver makes an early appearance and stays around for the duration. L’edition Imperiale’s vetiver goes from spring-like (sharp, green-tinged and clear) to autumnal (creamy and opaque). Into the vetiver ‘fabric’ are woven dustings of spices, tea and violet leaves. For a brief time, I want to drink L’edition Imperiale — it smells like a fabulous tisane. Fir balsam can dominate a perfume (see Annick Goutal’s Encens Flamboyant) but it’s used in just the right proportion in L’edition Imperiale — there is an intriguing hint, not a torrent, of resin. The amber and cedar in L’edition Imperiale are subdued and powdery, not thick and syrupy. I’d wear L’edition Imperiale in any season and it’s certainly a unisex fragrance. The scent of some perfumes makes me happy and hopeful; L’edition Imperiale’s lovely currents (and undercurrents) put me into a great mood.
Courvoisier L’edition Imperiale is available in 75 or 125 ml Eau de Parfum. For buying information, see the listing for Courvoisier under Perfume Houses.
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In a word: Lemming!
Great description, Kevin. Now, when are you coming to Vancouver????
Robin: thanks…and the second week of June for Vancouver. K
Actually, I think if I were you I would tell everyone what it is and offer anyone who finds you a bottle something from your collection.
I mean, with all of the perfume fanatics who probably read this all over the world, they are sure to come across it.
Kevin,
You, the wonderful, erudite, funny Benoit from Holt Renfrew (was at the Hermes boutique; do you know him? Splendid, cute guy!) and I will, as they say, Do Lunch!!
It'll be great to meet you.
– Robin (rrazzell@telus.net)
Kevin,
Thank you for the nice review,
I got a sample of L'edition Imperial from Luckyscent. It is delicious, although I think it is a bit masculine, I received compliments while wearing it.
I hope you find the fragrance that you are looking for.
I am very curious to find out what it is.
R: I don't know Benoit, but glad there's someone wonderful and funny at Holt Renfrew!
megank4: if my perfume detective can't find the scent I'll be posting a “Memorial” review…then, if someone has a bottle “out there” they can name their terms….
Arwen: glad you like L'edition Imperiale…I”ll come clean about the other fragrance in a future review.
This sounds like something I must have, the notes sound heavenly, but I am especially taken with that intriguing hint of fir. I loved the fir note in Zagorsk, but it wasn't quite what I wanted — not that often, anyway. Oh, dear, I have been so prudent and sensible recently. Funny how you read a review like this and your credit card leaps dolphinlike out of your wallet, apparently of its own accord.
This scent has intrigued me ever since I read about it – and I still have not smelled it. Weird.
Your comment on just a 'hint' of resin I can relate to. It takes quite a skillful perfumer to achieve this, and I really do appreciate it when it's well done.
One question: does it smell like cognac?
Annunziata: the dam is about to burst at my credit card house as well…I've only bought ONE bottle of fragrance this year…and now have about 6 I need NOW. I'm buying the summer ones and will save the richer things for fall. K
Mike: no, it doesn't smell like cognac…it smells BETTER.
Yay, for once I feel happy to have been wrong! Not only did I prompt you to seek out the Courvoisier, which clearly was a success, I too gave it another go in much more favorable weather conditions than last summer et voilà – j'adore it! Love your description of Courvoisier and adding that on my skin it goes from teeth-grinding dry resins to powdery florals to creamy woods – a spectacular execution of top quality ingredients. I do wish it lasted a tiny bit longer though, or perhaps that it was more assertive. But hey, you can't have everything, can you?
Oh, and best of luck to you and your PPD with unearthing the few remaining bottles of…
Dusan: I'll keep you posted on THE SEARCH! you know Courvoisier is very strong on my skin…lasts all day, but I spray on about nine spritzes, K
Kevin thanks for the review. I have this and I absolutely love it. It's a very complex fragrance and very rich and elegant.
It does stay close to the skin though – it reminds me in some ways of Varvatos that way, which I also wear. I tend to apply this quite heavily generally and maybe re-spritz after a few hours.
I can understand your comment about wanting to drink this, it really is a a delicious scent. It smells rich and sumptuous and is very yummy. If I smelled this on a woman I'd find it very attractive I think.
I've lost the sodding top to the bottle though which has annoyed me a great deal – any idea where I could get another one?
HDS1963: how in the world did you lose the cap? If you shop at a place that knows you and that you BUY from, ask for their tester bottle's cap…they may give it to you.
So whats the mystery colgne ur lookn for?