Perfumer Thierry Wasser will be the new house nose at Guerlain, a position that has been unfilled since the retirement of Jean-Paul Guerlain in 2002:
“This appointment upholds the Guerlain philosophy of entrusting its olfactory creations to a ‘nose’, a tradition that has been followed for almost 180 years,” Guerlain ceo Laurent Boillot said in a statement. “Five generations of Guerlain perfumers have produced an incomparable body of know-how, illustrated by bold creations, unique in the history of perfumery.”
(via cosmeticnews) Wasser has created two fragrances for Guerlain, Iris Ganache and Quand Vient La Pluie. Other fragrances to his credit include Christian Dior Addict & Christian Dior Addict Eau Fraiche, Diesel Fuel for Life for Her (with Annick Menardo), Fendi Palazzo (with Annick Menardo), Giorgio Armani Emporio Armani Diamonds, Gres Caline & Gres Caline Night, Kylie Minogue Darling & Kylie Minogue Sweet Darling, Lancome Hypnose (with Annick Menardo).
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The changes are always refreshing. But I must admit that except for Addict Eau Fraiche, this list is not my cup of tea.
I wish him luck anyway…
They should have hired Patricia de Nicolai…
Second the Patricia de Nicolai comment though maybe she would be happier sticking with her own house. I can't imagine house nose at Guerlain being an easy ride.
It is not my cup of tea either. He is very talented but I don't think it is a list that will warm most perfumista's hearts.
That was Luca Turin's suggestion as well, I think.
No, I'm sure you're right.
You're right. The list of his works simply doesn't fit with Guerlain.
Some hits, some misses, some near-hits and near-misses: this man, with this track record, should really shake things up, anyway.
Yeah, Patricia, wouldn't that have been cool if they'd hired Patricia? Just imagine. Or, let's see: betcha Andy Tauer would have fun playing around with their chemical arsenal! Hey, actually: to have a roster of “guest” noses instead of a single nose might be an excellent idea. Maybe that would be just the think to give Chris Sheldrake a bit of a creative shake. I think he needs it at this point. And a Guerlain by the venerable Mr. E. Roudnitska . . .? My little mind boggles. . .
His QVLP for Guerlain did not thrill me. The praline thing with the violets was a teensy bit cloying. But who knows? It'll be interesting to see what he does, and what a nice appointment for him. All the best, Thierry.
I wish they would've picked his sometimes partner Annick Menardo. But who knows what a talented but spotty (for me) nose will do with the Guerlain access to materials and more free rein. With my luck, it will be feat or famine: too many amazing things to afford or too many dreadful things to avoid. Sigh.
I would have been more excited about Annick Menardo too…
Ooops. Monsieur Roudnitska is no longer with us. I'm confused. FM got the formula for Therese posthumously? Jeez, this is all so complicated for sieve-brain semi-newbies. . .
R, a “roster of guest noses” is what we've had for some time (by all accounts, much farther back than 2002). Sheldrake, you know, went to Chanel…and not sure why he needs a “creative shake”, what do you mean?
I like his Guerlain scents (since I bought them both, I'd better like 'em) but the rest of that list was a big bunch of meh for me. I don't expect we're going to see anything “controversial” like a chypre or a hard-core leather out of this guy. Then again, maybe he's just been playing it safe/popular to get the gig, and now that he's in, he can show us the good stuff he's been dying to make. I can only hope.
I have trouble with P de Nicolai communication
When you go to her shop it is written on the door :
“I am from the Guerlain familly”
It is written on the package, on the bottle and on all Ad she made for her house.
Ok Patricia … I think we have understand …
I like the perfumes … and I beleive she doesn't need any more the “Guerlain” connection. she only use it for publicity, it is fare but I am tired of that.
It looks like this is the only argument for Patricia de Nicolai in order to sell perfume.
With this communication all her product will always be seen as under-guerlain or “false guerlain” …
Patricia is current running the osmotheque ? (tell me if I am wrong)
Correct.
I can see what you mean, but then, it is a heritage to be proud of, I think, and it must help when you're a tiny niche line.
That is correct. Even if he was still alive, I do not think he would be a good fit w/ Guerlain.
If he gets the chance to do as he likes, and of course, he may not have any more freedom at Guerlain than he did already, who knows? Sylvaine Delacourte will still be the creative director at Guerlain.
I think it will be great when a “genetic” Guerlain becomes the nose again someday. Apparently there is a young grandson of Jean-Paul who is showing some promise. While it would be wonderful to have Patricia, at this point she is so well-established in her own business, she would be ill-advised to leave it.
She can also be proud for making very good perfume.
Good price and small bottle (30 ml) … are perfect for us. No snobbery in her line. (The Sacrebleu “extract” in a bautifull bottle at 75 Eu … )
I prefer Patricia in an Emancipation Niche Line …
Why don't we just wait and smell what comes out of Guerlain the coming time.
And I understand you Benoit, for after some time one does not need to mention a previous employer if business goes well.
And yes Robin, of course it is something to be proud of but at a certain point this becomes old history.
That would be more romantic, of course! But for myself, I don't care if it is a Guerlain or not, so long as we can finally get a masterpiece out of Guerlain in modern times — IMHO, it has been a very long time.
Gee, I thought you were nonplussed by recent Serge Lutens releases by Chris Sheldrake, Robin, and I was just piggybacking on that notion. . . I'm wrong yet again, I see!
Oh, I gotcha. I guess I attribute that to Lutens, not Sheldrake. But of course, you never know who to “blame” any fragrance on — the creative direction might be at fault, not the perfumer, or vice versa. There are lots of massively talented perfumers making crap out there and I assume it is not what they'd make if they had some degree of freedom + fewer cost restrictions.
Hmmm… a perfumer called 'Wasser' (German for water). LOL! What does one expect from someone bearing that name? Something bland, maybe?
Ah, blogging back and forth is fast, fun and easy, but lots of details fall though the cracks when the communications are in a kind of shorthand!
!Robin, I do understand that it's hard to know just what's going on between houses and noses — for example, whether Serge needs to give Chris more freedom or whether Chris needs a creative shake. (Perhaps even the two of them would have different answers to the same question.) And I would always defer to you, with your greater depth and breadth of knowledge. I can't generally see the forest for the trees, I think!!
I take it you think Serge is restricting Chris' freedom though his own stylistic dictates and/or budget limitations? I'm not trying to split hairs, truly; I'm just trying to understand. Obviously, we're talking about some Big Influences here, and I think many of us rookies would like to learn all we can. It's SO hard to understand this huge world we've fallen in love with through a seemingly simple matter of indulging our own sensory gluttony!
I agree that they should have hired her. It would have made perfect sense, but most things these days don't make sense anyway!
I hope he upholds the Guerlain standard of beauty and excellence.
Hugs!
Very interesting choice on the part of Guerlain. I hope they are making the right choice. Although he is a talented perfumer, I do not at all see the correlation between what he creates and the aura and overall sense of Guerlain. But I do wish him luck!
I'm a little disappointed they did not hire Maurice Roucel, who has done well with L'Instant and Insolence. Somehow Roucel's modern “gourmande” style fits with the Guerlain style in L'Heure Bleue, Shalimar, etc..
I'm disappointed they did not hire Maurice Roucel. I think his style works well with the brand, especially in Insolence. And his Musc Ravageur & L by Lolita Lempicka were great re-interpretations of the oriental theme in Shalimar.
Patricia de Nicolaï was never employed by Guerlain, she belongs to the Guerlain family. It's a heritage to be proud of and I think she does it justice.
I hope so too R!
No, I wouldn't say Serge is restricting Sheldrake's freedom…I mean, presumably he is the one w/ the vision, and he hires a perfumer to put that vision into scent. Or so it supposedly goes…how do I know what their working relationship is, LOL? But my assumption about what is happening at SL lately is that it is Lutens who is changing artistically.
But I don't think you can compare it w/ a perfumer who is put on a strict budget and told to make another fruity floral for Escada, you know?
Agree.
LOL!
If I look at just modern Guerlain fragrances, I don't even catch an aura — so one hope is that by hiring a house nose, they'll get back some sense of consistency, maybe? We'll see, and I wish him luck too.
Another great call!
Eau de Wasser?
another argument i dont understand
L'Eau de L'Eau. Oops, Diptyque got in first.
I adore Quand Vient La Pluie. Cannot wait for more Wasser creations for Guerlain.
My vote for best fragrance name of the year!
Good!
Agreed. Well, we can pretty much assume that at least Thierry Wasser is going to have oodles of freedom in every respect, so it'll be interesting to see where it takes him — and us along with him!
I was going to say the same…
We'll have to keep our fingers crossed for TW, though, won't we? Seeing as how it's already done
I must agree with Benoit. It's like with the Coppola connection. Everyone knows Nicolas Cage is related to Coppola but he changed his name to be accepted as an actor (I'm not saying I that I consider him a very good actor) and not as “the actor which is a nephew of Francis F. Coppola”. I think even for the marketing it would be better if it was a rumor or insider knowledge rather than advertised by herself. If she's from the family it doesn't mean the Guerlain magic is “in her blood”, or does it? I should add though, to be honest, I'm not familiar with her line.
I hope they take the opportunity for a new beginning. I think Guerlain has to come up with a new concept for what is a G-fragrance. Not try to create “new old” Guerlains. They'll always end up being compared to the classics, which are simply beyond compare as they several times broke into new territory. I think the house should start a completely new line maybe even under a different brand name and keep the classic line as such under the name Guerlain, occasionally re-releasing some discontinued ones. You can't tell a Guerlain story and then pretend it's never over. Jean-Paul's was absolutely up there amongst the best, probably with an accumulated family wisdom that is not handed any further. The family is giving away the crown, so this story is over, or at least a chapter if you like.
I suppose I don't see it as giving away the crown…or at least, not right now. JPG retired in 2002, and by all accounts the house started using outside talent long before that. Hopefully Wasser will bring more consistency, but it doesn't seem to me to be “the changing of the guard”. But agree, they need a new concept.
Yes, I agree. I meant that the time is long due for a new concept. Many have been disappointed by recent releases. Although Insolence and L'Instant (for women & men) are by no means bad! I actually think they are very good. But you know what I mean, they are not groundbreaking and it's time G released something exceptional. But then, maybe everything has been tried before, like in Music, and there is nothing new to discover anymore…
Yep, they need a new masterpiece, and Insolence & L'Instant were not that.
I was actually very intrigued when Wasser was hired. My only memory of Wasser was based on the interviews he did with National Geographic years ago (still by far the most insightful piece on the perfumer)…so I typed it up quickly this morning:
http://lnk.nu/tuileries.blogspot.com/mf6.html
Maybe this explains why Guerlain hired him: the man is truly fascinating when he let his guard down. It will be interesting to see if the new Guerlain Homme is based on the mint scent he showed Cathy Newman years ago.
AlbertCAN, is that from CN's book or from an article in the magazine? I have the book but had forgotten that part (assuming it was in there).