I’ve been a fan of Guerlain Vetiver for years; recently, I came across (and bought) a stash of unopened Vetiver from the 1980s and I was surprised at the difference between the current Vetiver fragrance and the cologne as it smelled 20 years ago. The earlier version of Vetiver, which I do remember wearing, is darker, plusher, a tad smoky and it’s more interesting (to my nose) than today’s version. However, the older Vetiver in Eau de Toilette strength disappears within an hour on my skin (just as it did “back when”) while today’s lighter-smelling Vetiver lasts all day. When I heard Guerlain was making an “extreme” version of classic Vetiver, I was hoping it would be reminiscent of the 1980s version, but with better lasting power.
Vetiver Extreme contains lemon, bergamot, licorice accord, tarragon, pepper, nutmeg, frankincense, cedar wood, vetiver, and tonka bean. If you read Guerlain’s list of ingredients for both classic Vetiver and Vetiver Extreme, you notice that Vetiver Extreme (supposedly) does not contain orange and tobacco (as classic Vetiver does) and Guerlain has added licorice, tarragon, frankincense and cedar wood to the new “extreme” formula. For all the additions, Vetiver Extreme does not smell more complex than either the 1980s Vetiver I own or present-day Vetiver.
I expect a perfume with the word “extreme” added to its name to be more powerful, longer lasting, weirder or at least more complicated than its “parent.” Judged by those criteria, Vetiver Extreme is a disappointment: its lasting power is average and it’s not edgy or pungent in the least. (There’s certainly not more vetiver in the perfume.)
Vetiver Extreme starts off with sour citrus notes and a pithy green accord that’s heavy on the tarragon. As the citrus and green notes begin to “mature” (this happens quickly) there comes a scent that reminds me of crushed late-summer leaves — leaves that are still green in color, but that are a bit leathery, with intensified scent; this interesting ‘aged’ green aroma is joined by nutmeg, licorice, vetiver and a “raw” cedar note that smells like cedar essential oil on my skin. Unfortunately, to this rather pleasant mix Guerlain added a modern “fresh” accord. The offending (to my nose) “fresh” and slightly ozonic note smells a bit fruity and mentholated. Vetiver Extreme has a little more spice and greens but it still smells a lot like classic Vetiver.
If you love and wear classic Vetiver, I don’t think you’ll need the new Vetiver Extreme, but if something about classic Vetiver annoys you or does not agree with your skin’s chemistry, you may want to investigate the new version.
Vetiver Extreme is available at Sephora and at Guerlain airport/travel counters. I do not know if Vetiver Extreme will be a permanent addition to the Guerlain men’s fragrance offerings — Guerlain has not promoted this fragrance and even finding a publicity photo of the new bottle and box is almost impossible. Vetiver Extreme comes in 125 ml Eau de Toilette spray and is $74.
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Since I'm still new at this, I wouldn't know Vetiver if it bit me on the nose!
I'm just popping in to say how beautiful I think that bottle is!
Rose: get thee to a Guerlain counter and smell some Vetiver!
Kevin I read on basenotes an article with Yves Chiris who told that Guerlain has gone into the wrong direction by producing massmarket fragrances, instead more exclusive and expensive ones. He said that Insolence is no better than any drugstore fragrance. Maybe this also counts for Vetiver Extreme? I don't know of course but I guess it should have been an outstanding product, coming from the house of Guerlain.
Marianne: Vetiver Extreme is certainly better than a drugstore fragrance, but to me, with classic Vetiver in the Guerlain “fragrance stable”…this “extreme” version is a 'why-bother?' effort.
I get your point.
MW, you might enjoy reading this:
http://tinyurl.com/2ay4w2
K, I think I would love to get my hands on some classic Vetiver, but I'm with you on the “fresh” accord. You do have to wonder about the use of the word “Extreme” – almost as if it's code for “same old same old”.
I've already decided I want a bottle of classic V. for myself next summer; the description of *extreme* doesn't sound esp. inviting. The bottle is wonderful, and just looking at it feels cool and refreshing. Enjoy your words as always
Anon good sir! LOL!
Exist: the term “extreme” is becoming a joke, isn't it?
Rosarita: true, would “intense” be better? But even that term makes my BP rise a bit!
E. will look at the website first thing tomorrow morning! It's bedtime here.;) – 6 hours ahead.
K, Vetiver is a lovely scent, but most times it just turns to soap on my skin and I'm not much of a 'single-note' vetiver person anyway. I prefer the 'vintage' EdC that packs a stronger vetiver statement, is smokier and mossier (?). No surprise then that I don't feel in the least bit moved to try the Extrême i.e. fresh flanker. That bottle is stunning, though.
Kevin: What's your favorite Vetiver fragrance if you had to pick just one? How do you feel about Creed's version?
Oh, and maybe “Extreme” is the new “Sport.”
If you like the New Vetiver in the abstract bottle you should like Vetiver Frozen or en glacee as sometimes described.. I'm fairly sure that perfumebay.com has all the Vetivers except the Extreme which somehow has become exclusive to Sephora outside Guerlain.
So we have
Vetiver
Vetiver Extreme
Vetiver Frozen
Vetiver Sport
and for Sephora customers and at the highest price.
Vetiver Extreme
plus the 1980 Vetiver is not hard to find.
The term “extreme” is a signal for me not to buy, as subtlety is usually much more interesting. I think houses wheel out the term “extreme” when they want to squeeze a few more skins out of a known name as opposed to going through the trouble (and the art) of creating something entirely new…which of course ends up compromising the unique feel of the original.
They're Guerlain, for heaven's sake; they certainly don't need to resort to “extremes” to make fans around the world pay attention. And the original Vetiver is an institution.
Mick: I have one thing to add: “AMEN!”
Dusan: is the vintage still easy to come by in Europe? (Hope you got my email from gmail? It bounced back to me but that does not usually mean it was not delivered… But am having email glitches recently!) K
Joe: EW! I hate “Sport” more than “Extreme”…forgot about that one! If I could only have ONE Vetiver (perish the thought) fragrance it would be Route du Vetiver by MPG. Creed Vetivers do nothing for me.
Gary Fred: I found the Frozen and Sport Vetivers no more powerful than the lightest of light colognes…really fleeting on the skin. I'll stick with “regular” old/new classic Vetiver. Didn't Guerlain, for the briefest period, late 80s/early 90s, issue Vetiver in Eau de Parfum? I remember buying a bottle for a friend who liked the “cologne” better. Now, they've kept Eau de Parfum for Habit Rouge but stopped making Vetiver in that concentration.
K, I haven't got a clue about the availability of Vetiver EdC, sorry! I found a sample of it in the treasure box of samples I got from a perfume fairy last summer, I don't know if you remember the story
Still, much as EdC is the nicer Vetiver, it is terribly shortlived.
And yes, I (sadly) did get your email on Friday but didn't (wasn't able to) read and reply to it until late last night. I hope it's waiting for you in your gmail inbox.
Hi Kevin,
It is sad to see Guerlain resorting to these sales tactics. I'm broadly in agreement with you that none of the Vetiver variants can hold a candle to the “Classic” renditions, new and old.
On the same note, are you familiar with Vetivers from Puig and Fragonard?
If you aren't, I fancy, on the basis of your review, you'll like both very much.
I'd also appreciate your views on both in the event you try them and find them interesting.
Karthic: Thanks, I'll add Puig and Fragonard vetivers to the “to-try” list.
If you like a vetiver that will grab you and take you on a smokey, mysterious and powerful journey, try Liz Zorn's new Blood Orange and Vetiver. It's a tiny little blood orange and a big muscular hunk o'vetiver. Perfect for vetiver fans.
Existentialist, just read the article in the NYT. Thank you for mentioning this! Enjoyed reading it. Will try to find some more art. written by Ch.B. !
E. I am reading article after article. How wrong and biased I have been about Chandler Burr.!!
QC: that DOES sound nice.
Well, you did not have that much information to go on before. Glad you like the articles.
E. I love books and here in Prague there so many bookstores, some 'Chaptersize' with so many different en excellent books, but of course! most of them are in the CZ language. There books in English, French, German, Hungarian etc. but the collections are small. So every piece of readingwork online is more than welcome. I buy books in the Netherlands but not that many – they add to the weight of luggage..
So I am really happy with your information