Parfums de Nicolaï launched Vetyver for men in 2004. The fragrance includes notes of vetiver, cumin, black pepper, clove, coriander, ylang ylang, jasmine and tonka bean absolute.
Vetyver opens on juicy citrus notes overlaid with heavy spices. The cumin is quite strong, but the effect is moderated by the pepper, clove and coriander; despite my general hatred for cumin in fragrance, I didn’t find it unpleasant here. Mind you, I didn’t love it, but I didn’t find it unpleasant. The spices get drier and dustier as the citrus fades, and while they do calm somewhat, Vetyver stays quite spicy straight through the dry down. It is not quite so curried as say, Christian Dior Eau Noire, but it does have a mild Indian food vibe.
The florals are subtle, and the base smells like earthy woods with a very faint hint of vanilla. The vetiver is quite noticeable, and more so the longer it is on skin; I liked it best after an hour had passed and the cumin had finally settled down to a whisper. Even then, it is not really a straightforward vetiver-focussed fragrance in the manner of Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire. All the same, it is beautifully done — as always with this house, it smells like attention was paid to the quality of the raw materials — and although it is not to my taste, it is very much worth trying. To my nose it is more masculine than feminine.
For pricing and availability, see the listing for Parfums de Nicolaï under Perfume Houses.
For another take on spicy vetiver, try Lorenzo Villoresi Vetiver.
Note: the image shows vetiver grass grown for erosion control in Senegal, via Centre Mampuya. For a picture of the root system (from which the oil used in perfumery is derived) see my review of Vetiver Tonka by Hermès.
Tomorrow: vetiver fragrances by il Profumo & Le Labo.
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Thank you for another gorgeous review. Am wondering where I can get the Hermessence Vetiver Tonka…can only seem to find decants on ebay and I see the urge for a bottle in my future. Any suggestions?
sounds a bit like Etro Vetiver. I prefer my grass straight up.
Gina – you are going to need to contact a Hermes boutique for VT. Also Harrods has it in the UK so I guess maybe one of the big NY department stores may stock it
Only at the larger Hermes boutiques, unfortunately, and not available from their website. Any of the stores will ship though.
That is one of the few Etros I haven't tried. Is it very spicy?
I've been on a vetiver kick lately. In fact, obsessed with the note
…This is the one I haven't tried yet, but now that you mentioned cumin, I definitely will LOL
I've got two full PdN bottles, and can wear neither – they're just too sweet and both have a kind of bubble-gum note that gives me a headache. This bugs me – I can sense the quality of the ingredients and the sillage and lasting power are tremendous. I think I need a leaner, sharper PdN – perhaps this is the one? I adore Vetiver Tonka beyond words – is this in the same league? (BTW, daughter (20) fell for SacreBleu, so has taken the bottle off my hands!)
LOL — you are sure to love it M, since I don't
Now very curious what the two bubblegumish ones were?
Vetyver is nothing at all like Vetiver Tonka (I adore that one too) to my nose.
I wish vetiver would love me back. (sulks) Vetiver Tonka smells just wretched on me.
R: ETRO Vetiver is a powerhouse scent…and I DO think you would like it (no cumin-y, Calcutta vibe either). I buy a bottle every couple of years…as I do their Sandalo. K
Thanks Robin and Daruma. I got a decant off of ebay for now, but this sounds like something I'd like to have a full bottle of. I'm so addicted…
Trying to imagine VT smelling wretched on anyone, but will just have to take your word for it!
Ok, will have to get ahold of a sample then!
A warning: the big bottles (100 ml) are really expensive — around $180 if I remember correctly. I have settled for the discovery sets, which are around $125 for 4 15 ml bottles.
That's a nice photo, NST. I'll take some of Grasse week after next and send them to you, shall I? Sketches, too!
Please do!!
*sneaks into L's suitcase*
Hi, I am trying to replace my last bottle of Crabtree and Evelyn Vetyver eau de toilette. It seems like they have discontinued this fragarance. Do you know what would be a good alternative? I have tried Roger and Gallet, but it is totally different. Thanks for any suggestions,
G.
I am so sorry, but I've never tried the C&E so I don't know what it is like. Can you describe it at all?
There are links to some other vetiver reviews at the bottom of this one:
http://www.nstperfume.com/blog/_archives/2006/5/9/1941772.html
and another fairly new one is Paul Smith Story:
http://www.nstperfume.com/blog/_archives/2007/1/5/2622323.html
it begins with a top note that is almost blueberry, but quickly mellows to vetiver and some other woodsy tones. it is more woodsy than spicy. i was wrong about the exact name, too, it is C & E's Vetiver Cologne.
thanks!
George
George, Would you call it clean, or earthy, or maybe both?
And have you ever smelled Guerlain Vetiver, and can you tell me how it compares? (And by the way, if you haven't, that is the first place I'd start my search. It is one of the best out there).
Thanks! I'll look for some Guerlain and give it a try. I would say that C&E's old Vetiver is pretty balanced between earthy and clean, especially after dry-down when it might a touch more earthy. it might have some tobacco blossom to it, too, but i am not an experienced “nose.” The Roger & Gallet was disappointing to me, though i like citrus, it overpowers the vetiver, and when it dries, it seems to have that old-man tone that i can't quite identify (bergamot?)….. thanks for the guidance!
G.
Hmmm…the Guerlain has lots of citrus, but I don't think it overpowers. If you get a chance to try it, come back and tell me how it compares and I'll see what else I can come up with.
I have a big problem with Vetiyer by PdN. It has a strong repulsive odor on my skin after 10 minutes and continues for an hour which I dont have with other vetiver scents. It smells like medicine mixed with something sweet ( weird concoction) even in the drydown which I dont like when am working in the office
I hope its just me…. but I am usually a vetiver fan. Not this one though. Sorry 
Am guessing the cumin doesn't work for you…
Obviously, No… LOL !