Ecume de Rose was launched by Les Parfums de Rosine in 2003. The notes are blackcurrant leaves, waterlilies, dune roses, attar of rose, strawflowers, St. John's wort, vetiver, amber and white musk.
I love rose perfumes — who doesn't like the smell of roses? — but they are easily the most ignored fragrances in my collection. I love them, but I don't wear them. There is something almost trite about wearing a rose soliflore, and the more realistically a fragrance imitates the smell of the real thing, the more likely it is to languish at the back of my cabinet, admired but untouched.
Ecume de Rose is one of the few rose fragrances that I reach for often, especially at this time of year when I am longing for winter to finally end. It starts out rather sharp, and as my bottle has aged the top notes have developed a rather jarring edge; I try to let it settle before I get too close. Over the next 15 minutes it smoothes out into a lovely soft rose, closer to the scent of rosewater than the scent of a fresh picked flower, accented by a hint of tart fruit and a very light touch of green.
In the drydown, Ecume de Rose starts to live up to its name: Rose Foam. I don't pick up any marine or ozonic notes, but there is a sensation of something very like fresh salt air. It smells like being at the beach on a warm spring day, when it is not quite hot enough to swim just yet, and everything smells fresh and clean. As Ecume continues to dry down, the amber intensifies and the vetiver adds a subtle earthiness, but despite the darker base notes, in character it stays light-hearted and carefree. It is the sort of fragrance you would wear with a sundress, not an evening gown.
Ecume de Rose is an Eau de Parfum, and the lasting power is good. It is available in 50 and 100 ml bottles; for buying information, see the listing for Les Parfums des Rosine under Perfume Houses.
Tomorrow: Diptyque L'Ombre dans L'Eau