Recently, after a visit to Aruba, my friend Chuck began singing the praises of the Agatha fragrances by New York fashion and accessories designer, Agatha Brown. Her five scents for men and women have been described as “the most exclusive and prestigious fragrances in the world”.
The first of her men’s scents I’ll review, Conquest, has been imagined by its creator as a scent that 007 himself might wear. It contains notes of bergamot, lemon, yuzu zest, Rio Red grapefruit, fig leaf, stephanotis, jasmine, iced lavender, white muguet, Braeburn apple, Atlas cedar, vetiver, tonka bean, Ceylonese sandalwood, patchouli, olibanum, benzoin and musk.
Conquest opens with a citrus burst that is nicely paired with a sweet apple note. As the top notes give way, the floral-laced wood notes open, finally drying down to a base dominated by sweet benzoin and lavender. The initial impression is familiar. Those who remember (and who can forget) Guy Laroche’s Drakkar Noir will agree to the similarity. But the comparison ends quickly as Conquest transforms into a woodsy composition that never loses its sweet zesty edge.
As the scent develops I’m reminded of, first, Vicky Tiel’s rich Ulysse, though whereas Ulysse heads for vanilla territory, Conquest offers up cedar, vetiver and olibanum. Then the sweetness resides and I’m left with echoes of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Tsar — cedarwood and lavender, and here’s one of the surprises to this scent — the drydown on my skin is predominantly lavender!
Overall, Conquest is a well-crafted fragrance that truly stands apart from the current onslaught of smell-alike designer fragrances and woody gourmands, though is also somewhat of a throwback to the late 80’s. Long-lasting, with excellent sillage and an unusual array of notes, this scent is a surprise as it morphs from citrus and fruit into dry woods and lavender.
For buying information, see the listing for Agatha under Perfume Houses.
Bonus reading: Marlen interviews Agatha Brown on Basenotes.
Tomorrow: Imperial Jade Emperor by Agatha Brown
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Marlen, but did you think that it was something James Bond would wear?
Wow, that sounds wonderful, Marlen. (I am imagining Sean Connery smelling like this) I went to her website and also looked into Imperial Jade, which I REALLY want to try. I look forward to seeing your review tomorrow on that one as well.
Colombina – that's a good question. I could see this scent fitting in nicely with the car, suit, and gadgets, and I'm sure the femme du jour wouldn't mind it one bit!
Kim – more on IJE tomorrow, but that one was even more “wow”!
Great review and excellent interview. I've been wearing Mystery and Imperial Jade for quite a while and particularly love IJ. Am now very curious about JE and look forward to tomorrow's review. I've tried Conquest and would love it on a man, but can't wear it myself (and DH resolutely avoids scents). Hoping JE may be something I can wear as a companion to IJ or even layer them.
Ivanova – I would think IJE could be totally wearable by a woman. Definitely seek out a sample and give it a go. They are companion compositions with Emperor less floral and a bit deeper than Empress.
Quick note from Agatha, heself, explaining that the men's scents are actually edp strngth, though the boxes and bottles say edt:
I had already printed my boxes
and bottles when I discovered that the traditional 8% perfume oils for men's eau de toillette just wasn't
doing it for me. So I changed it to 18% eau de parfume before macerating and bottling the men's fragrances. So they are truly a full 18%. This turned out to be a wise decision and is the secret of why
these fragrances stay on usually until they are washed off and become so interesting and complex.
In my opinion, 8% is like after shave lotion and I feel the guys deserve better.