Fragrance of the day: Paul & Joe Blanc

Paul & Joe Blanc perfumeThe Paul & Joe line has two fragrances, both introduced in 2003: Blanc, a fresh floral created by Jean Claude Ellena, and Bleu, a warmer oriental by Pierre Bourdon. Today I am trying Blanc, which features notes of hawthorn, angelica, almond, sweet pea, freesia, lily, rose, musk, heliotrope and cloud of milk.

Blanc opens with a touch of citrus, and quickly settles into a soft blend of angelica and hawthorn. There is a tinge of almond that lingers into the dry down, which is otherwise well-blended floral notes — every so often I catch a whisper of freesia or sweet pea — over a light, milky vanillic base. It is a transparent fragrance, only mildly sweet, and there is the vaguest hint of powder.

Blanc shares several notes (hawthorn, angelica, heliotrope, maybe iris) with another Jean Claude Ellena fragrance, L'Eau d'Hiver from Frederic Malle, and in fact, while they are not identical twins, they might fairly be called relatives. What differences they have are more obvious in the first 20 minutes, when Hiver has considerably more presence, and Blanc feels rather like Hiver's younger, fresher, calmer, possibly less interesting cousin. Once both scents dry down, Blanc feels rather like the summery aspect of whatever idea inpired Hiver.

If I was forced to choose between them, I would go with Hiver without hesitation. But Blanc is nicely done, and if I ever run across it on a day when I happen to have money in my pocket, it may well join my collection too.

For buying information, see the listing for Paul & Joe under Perfume Houses.

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25 Comments

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  1. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    Wonderful review R! Many Happy Returns.

    ((((((((((((((((R))))))))))))))))))

  2. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    Sounds nice, but I think I'll take your advice and stick with L'eau d'Hiver. The first time I ever smelled L'eau d'Hiver my first thought was that it was my favorite part of En Passant, the part I had to wait through a whole lilac drydown for, and suddenly, there it was. I *could* get to it right away. As if JCE smelled OG's creation and said, “Oh, skip to the point, already.”

  3. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    Thank you N!

  4. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    T, I adore Hiver & En Passant but never picked up on any similarity — will have to try them together this weekend.

  5. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    Happy birthday, R!

    But “cloud of milk”? Am I the only one who thinks perfume marketers are getting Just Too Cute?

    Sign me, Skeptical Marta

  6. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    M, Thank you!!

    Yes, agree on the Too Cute. In a funny way, at least “cloud of milk” is somewhat accurate – that is sort of what it smells like. It didn't bother me as much as “lush water accord”, or the new “living” thing that they add to everything, as in “living rose” — which is shorthand for the fact that it is nothing of the sort.

  7. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    Is today your birthday, R? I knew it! I knew you were another fabulous Fall person. :) :) I wish you a glorious day and an even better year.

    Great review! Long story short…I much prefer Hiver to P&J.

    Hugs!

  8. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    This sounds beautiful to me. Might have to try it if I pass by the Paul & Joe store sometime (actually not even sure if it's still there). I love a subdued airy floral now and again.

    And happy birthday, R!

    xo

  9. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    I have never tried either Blanc or Bleu, but I will check them out at BG. I now feel the same way about Jean-Claude Ellena's creations as I do about Remarque's novels–I started with the famous ones, and now I seek out everything else.

    Happy birthday once again!

  10. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    Lovely review! But like Tania, I think I will stick to Hiver.

    Happy Birthday, and may all your sniffs be good ones!

    Judith

  11. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    Never heard of this brand before – sounds like a nice soft composition.

    Great bottle! very pretty and retro looking.

  12. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    Tried these a few months ago at Printemps in Paris. My reaction was “bof” – smells like L'Eau d'Hiver, which I already have, so I didn't buy. Didn't like Bleu at all, I don't even have a memory of what it smelled like. Maybe I need to sniff again.

  13. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    Thank you R!

  14. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    Thank you V! And of course, let me know what you think of the Blanc if you try it :-)

  15. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    I like the bottle too. Their makeup packaging is cutesy, but I rather like it too.

  16. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    T, I smelled the Bleu very quickly on a test strip, and it simply didn't seem like my sort of thing, but one of these days I'll try it on skin to be sure.

  17. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    Nice review, but I'll stick with L'Eau d'Hiver. Love that fragrance.

    Happy Birthday to you!!! Hope you are having an enjoyably fragrant day, R!

  18. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    Happy Birthday Robin!

    Although they are very similar, I find enough difference between Malle's l'Eau d'Hiver and Paul & Joe White to keep both in my collection. White has a bit more softness to it to me while l'Hiver is a little crisp. I reserve l'Hiver for warmer days.

  19. Anonymous
    Posted on 10 November 2005

    “a cloud of milk” is the literal English translation of “un nuage de lait”, which is what you ask for in French when you have tea with milk, i.e. it just means “a drop of milk”, nothing fancy at all.

  20. Anonymous
    Posted on 11 November 2005

    Have a great day, R!

    I thought the Blanc was just okay, but I haven't had much luck with the Malle's either.

    Now the Bleu is great. You've inspired me to wear it today.

  21. Anonymous
    Posted on 11 November 2005

    Thanks K!!

  22. Anonymous
    Posted on 11 November 2005

    Thanks J, that makes more sense.

  23. Anonymous
    Posted on 11 November 2005

    Thanks B! I will have to try that Bleu on skin then.

  24. Anonymous
    Posted on 11 November 2005

    Oh, belated Happy Birthday, Robin!!!!! I was out of town yesterday and just got back! Hope it was a fabulous day! I'm curious now to try Blanc. I like Eau d'Hiver very much, but D doesn't and I hate that that has put me off of it a bit. *sulks* I'm a new fan of JCE, but I tend to admire his scents in t he abstract more than LOVE them on my person. He's very smart and talented, that is clear.

  25. Anonymous
    Posted on 11 November 2005

    Thanks L! Doubt D would love Blanc if he doesn't love Hiver, but you never know. Hope you had a good trip to somewhere :-)

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