Today I am comparing the new La Chasse aux Papillons Extrême perfume, released by L’Artisan Parfumeur this year, with the original version, now referred to fondly on the fragrance boards as diet La Chasse.
La Chasse aux Papillons was originally released by L’Artisan in 1999. The fragrance was created by nose Anne Flipo, and has notes of citrus, orange blossom, linden, tuberose, and jasmine. La Chasse is one of many fragrances that I dismissed on the first try, only to later become hopelessly smitten. It is the classic, ethereal spring-time white floral, very fresh and girly — a white floral even a white floral hater could love. It starts with light citrus notes and a lovely burst of linden. The orange blossom also adds a nice, dry zing, and helps to balance out the sweetness of the tuberose and jasmine. I wouldn’t exactly call it green, but there are grassy notes as well. It is not an overly complex perfume, but for what it is, it is perfect. Like most of the L’Artisan Eau de Toilettes, it is short lived; it lasts for about 3 to 4 hours on me.
The notes for La Chasse aux Papillons Extrême are similar, with the additions of pink pepper, saffron, ylang ylang and honey. Given how rarely perfume houses list notes in any detail, these may all be in the regular version for all I know. The top notes are heavier on the citrus, and very peppery. The saffron adds just a hint of creaminess (and I would love to try layering this with Safran Troublant). The linden and orange blossom are comparatively restrained; the tuberose and the jasmine are very much in the forefront. I am not catching the grassy notes of the regular version, and it stays lightly spicy through the dry down. It is sweeter, smoother, and less summery, although it is still not what I think of as heady. It certainly isn’t something that you couldn’t wear to the office.
As with the other Extrêmes from L’Artisan, they have tweaked the notes considerably, so this is not just a deeper, longer lasting rendition. In other words, I would not buy the Extrême unsniffed just because you enjoy the regular version, and for that matter, you might want to give it a try even if you don’t like diet La Chasse. I like both versions, but I am guessing that I will reach for the original La Chasse more often.
L’Artisan La Chasse aux Papillons is available in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette. La Chasse aux Papillons Extrême is available in 50 ml Eau de Parfum. For buying information, see the listing for L’Artisan under Perfume Houses.